ste91

Found a better diagram: http://www.ep91.com//attachment.php?attach...mp;d=1177552871 On connector 2, pin #9 is switched battery power, I think that's the one I need for the power to the gauge? As for the pin number 7 - ignition feedback, even though there's nothing in there should I whack it in there anyway? Or should I go for pin #21...

I'd rather attempt it myself. I'm completely lost though, in another topic that diagram is saying pin #7 on the 26 pin side is used for the rev signal, but there's no wire in pin number 7... lol, hopeless.

Rev gauge has just arrived, and it's not bad for £25 all in, including a pod for it. Make is AutoGauge... but the box was Apiro? Same company? :S

RS125 as I suggested earlyer are great bikes from what I've heard, can easily do 100+ mph and you can ride them without a full license? I know someone who had one and all he ever did was talk about how good it was.

Possibly but it's like 4 hours away... would be alright if there was a convoy, have to go past Milton Keynes... London...etc... to get there.

Gives me time to pass my test if I can get a cancellation 9 week waiting list

RS125!

I use pure screenwash in mine and they haven't froze, but I think some screenwashes freeze and some don't? I'm not sure.

Use undiluted windscreen wash, no water.

Your old one was clean as fuck!

But first you need to buy this: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....showtopic=14904

Could get a spanking nice GT for that money!

Cheers Joz, read a few topics, still not completely sure what to do but I'll figure it out. On another note, look at this amazing rev gauge: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=4GdWZEKKXJU

Gauge pod came today... gauge should be here on monday hopefully. Still clueless on how to wire it up though, can't find anything on it.

Not going to bother? :S what are you on about

As Dave mentioned about sludge - when I had my engine flushed and oil changed, there was a significant increase in performance, so I think I might of had some slugde before it?

lmao is it just me or does anyone think joz's new one is hilarious

Yeah cost is the main reason, but at the same time I don't want the cheap badly made shit so I try to settle for somewhere in the middle, lowish cost and decent quality. If I had enough money I'd just buy "everything" and get it all set up perfect, but I don't have the money for it so I have to do things one by one, so nothing is going to be perfect. And it's funny you mention brakes because mine are fucking terrible

I drilled a hole in my intake pipe and used the rubber bung out of the airbox so it sealed properly. Works fine. On another note, I'd recommend getting rid of the crap standard rubber pipe, there's loads of pipes and silicone pipe and reducers on ebay, and shouldn't cost too much.

jag kan prata lite svenska

What's she saying? looks like "blowjob please" lol

!

Right then I need to find out how and where to put the wires. I think there is something like 4 wires? - one for power when the ignition is turned on (most probably red yes?) - one for earth/negative (black probably) - one for the rev signal - and one for the back light when you turn the lights on Can't think of anything else, so assuming that's all the wires there are, where do I put them, and how do I do it? (I am guessing I will have to cut some other wires to put these ones in?).

Ordered the gauge earlyer along with a pod thing, now I just have to wait til it arrives and then get it wired up and fitted... but, I'm fucking clueless on how to do it. Once I figure it out though, does anyone want me to make a guide on how to fit a basic rev gauge when I fit it? Could take pics as I'm doing it.

I have NGK leads and Iridium plugs on my Starlet, here's a really shit pic, non turbo I know but it's all the same: http://file042a.bebo.com/9/original/2008/1...9243883562o.jpg They look rather good, work good too as you'd expect from NGK... and they're cheaper than the Magnecore ones as mentioned already.