Glanza_cl

and photoshopped badly at that lol

cheers mate the cars are out there you just gotta look really hard, i looked around for ages! lol the silver and ice blue colour are the same there are no to different variations just in different light the colour might seem different. the last link is to here in the sales section, perhaps have a good old nose through the cars for sale on here and toyotagtturbo.com

I dont think in this current exchange rate that you will be able to get a good condition one over for that amount. if you were willing to give it some tlc i'm sure you could get one though. there are loads already here for cheap, have a look at the links: http://pistonheads.com/sales/836489.htm http://pistonheads.com/sales/846950.htm http://pistonheads.com/sales/969026.htm http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....showtopic=18987 there just a few if you have a good look around i'm sure will be able to find a good'n i got mine for £3330 standard last year with only 40k miles on

Hiya mate welcome to the club, importing is not quite as simple as it seems, i would advise really doing some research into it first. remember the price of the yen again the pound isn't great there are quite a lot of costs involved in importing: there's the car it's self plus any action fee's, shipping charges plus insurance, you have to pay when it reaches the dock, registration charges, mot etc the lists goes on and on, if you really feel confident about doing it go for it, but if it were easy we all would have imported our cars. there are a few on here that imported a car them selves a

ahhh got ya lol, well in theory with the longer pipe work it might induce a bit more lag then a top mount but saying your car has lag with a ct9 is silly lol as the spool up time is so quick. if the boost is holding strong and not dropping off i cant imagine there is much to worry about mayb reset the blitz access to adapt to the slightly cooler intake temp, doing that might see the pick up it had before. running no dump valve will be fine, give it all the beans you like

so what exactly is the problem? lol, 0.95 did you not hit fuel cut? your getting boost creep and that's kinds expected after fitting a fmic. sounds like it boosting fine buddy, could give the actuator another twist but that will mean you will hit fuel cut. next on the list is either an ebc, or port the wastgate to prevent the creep so you can up the boost.

put a sandwich bag over your bov port and plate thing then sellotape up the sandwich bag so there's no gaps then give it a good rev if the bag fill you got a small leak lol.

if the boost goes to 0.7 and stays at 0.7 then it's fine just give the actuator a twist or two inwards...if the boost goes to 0.7 then dies of a bit you get a boost leak.

dude your being mega silly driving round without a rrfpr with that fcd!, whats the point in spending all this money when you might just go blow your engine.

so your running 1bar with a fcd with no kinda fueling mods?

i think just under 170 is about right with just a fcd, do you have a rrfpr? obviously a mani, fmic etc will push up the bhp figure my mate managed just under 170 at 0.8 with full suporting mods this was also under fuel cut.

cheers dude i'm not sure if it is suposed to be flat but either way i have noticed a big difference...my car used to allways understear but now i go round in one lol still havnt pushed it to the limit yet. UPDATE while i'm here: it's back at Pacific Works being tinkered with again, manifold is off and has been measured and the face has worped a bit ;) it's out by about 1mil either side, i was hoping it wasn't as now i have to pay a bit more for it to be skimmed but at least it will be back together and running puuurfect again lol also this is what probably has been causing the over f

RobSR will have a matt black glanza conversion lol but theoretically that's not a glanza lol need a shoot with mine, markoos's and I1 jev... triplets lol

indeed a very helpful chap has helped me out many a time, well done buddy

yeah i see you still have aircon, you have to cut so much with the HDI with the aircon still in. running no bov will be fine mate, but just make sure you dont get a boost leak around were you have bunged it up. you should be able to get a lip on there but you might have to cut it...and i wouldn't want to cut an optional lip that's for sure lol, take the aircon out move the core back a bit and you should be able to get a lip on without cutting it. pm Keirz or Pav as they both have fitted the HDI fmic with a lip and without cutting to much off. I have a HDI and managed a reasonable job but d

yeah i got a thread just click on my sig below on the "check my build" bit i got everything for 200bhp on my car minus a emanage and a clutch which i will have soon. so might give you a good idea of mods that work etc.

yeah bud love my coilies not many glanza rolling with apex coilovers so yeah your part of the elite few lol is that as low as the back coilovers will go? it's weird as yours looks well similar to mine even down to the white glanza sticker down the side lol...great minds think alike got any further plans for the V

are they the gen2 apex coilovers? if so i have those cars looking awesome mate, cant beat a black v with white wheels lol

i think it one of those things that get said during a raged argument, let things cool for a bit and i'm sure everything will work out. even if things don't necessarily work out to well, you are the child's farther and she cant take that away from you, it a given fact by law. i wouldn't worry to much she hormonal (women are anyway lol) but also pregnant so it gets quadropolised! lol

erm kinda, you can bloc up the bov or completely remove the reserc bov but if you still have the standard air box you probably wont hear it. if you buy and open air filter then yes you would hear it, so can your hear chatter on a standard engine not really...get a open filter then yes.

i would put my bets on valve stem seals (little rubber washer things around the valve seats) or a head gasket. does it smoke on idle? leave it to idle for 2-3minutes then give it a good rev if it puts smoke out the exhaust it might be the valve stem seals.

if you look around you will find the highest figured starlets on stock internals are ran with emanages or the blitz/jam etc there are some running 200 on fcd/rrfpr with uprated fuel pumps etc but i cant imagine they will last particularly long...but to every statement there is an exception. Just look at Pav here he has been through the works management wise lol and is now making over 200 with a HKS Fcon so 200 is more then manageable safely.

i would say realistically 200-220 perhaps if the engine had gone through a full rebuild with all Toyota genuine parts it might withstand 250 but everyday glanza's with 60-80k on the clock i wouldn't want to push more then 220 on a stock engine...just my opinion though. plus to push the engine safely i would want some proper management like a piggy back/standalone ecu none of this FCD/RRFPR combo.

nice! that will work wonders when all set up, i shale have one as well soon. it's coming together now nicely

indeed i would watch your boost gauge and see what is happening first. adjusting an adjustable actuator is a bitch! unless you have an ebc it's a nightmare. if you keep having problems adjust it to the length of your standard one then go from there. obviously remember to only turn the adjustable screw section and NOT the whole arm...that will lead to bad things.