Glanza_cl

Right update time... this is good and bad so the good stuff first lol... Had the head and block off and got the valve stem seals replaced, valves reseated, head skimmed, new head gasket etc all done and back on with new cambelt, gaskets the lot lol At the same time i got my Hybrid turbo fitted along with a new mild steal SPS manifold! YAY! also got the HDI ecb-r fitted along with the oil catch can white line rear fixed anti role bar is on and doing good things Razo straight style shifter fitted Got a RRFPR and gauge to go on Got some nice new gauges... Apexi 60mm boost gauge and HKS

loads of people do it (i have coilover though lol) it's not bad but will sacrifice the longevity of the shocks... they might last years or they might only last a couple of months depends on the condition of the shocks you wont find any springs that's go lower then 40mm on a starlet, teins say 55mm or something like that but i isn't anywhere near that low. i would say do it and then when your shocks go buy some uprated ones

he's had problems with setting up emails amongst other things should be up and running as of tomorrow

sounds good i have the HDI ebc and it's a lovely bit of kit, i would get a SAFC or neo fuel computer just to get a safer map, you will produce more power from a more refined map aswell there's not a lot of adjustability with a rrfpr but will do the job just fine. Black fast V's FTW!! lol keep up the good work your car looks super tidy

but why? I'm sure youve herd what can happen, but i no you will do it properly i'm sure. I would go with a jam as i would prefer to run slightly rich rather then slightly lean... what you going to running boost wise? I take it you already have a rrfpr? will you eventually get a emb or get a SAFC or the likes of?

this a warning... running a fcd is not a good thing to do especially on a standard engine. instead get an uprated actuator then turn down the boost... simple this is the quickest way of recking your engine. get a manifold and exhaust, then a decat, then a rrfpr get it RR at 0.8 that is more then suffice... if you want to run more boost then save and get a piggyback ecu or minimum a fcd AND a SAFC to get a safe map. EDIT: sorry if that souds harsh i just dont want to end up with a blown engine, wait and do it right first time

sorry lol, it's nothing to worrie about and is definitely not to bad... just find away of being able to turn the boost down a tad, either get a new actuator (an after market one on the glanza's only has one port not two) or an ebc. good luck with it though

lol no one... just super cal and the use of magic mind power to read the afr's in his head.

I think Ricky(starbus) on here made it, and he can fabricate pretty much anything to an awesome standard! he would make you up a fmic kit and decat all at the same time but might need your car there for him to measure and fit etc.

... but wont have overly a large amount of control of the boost level. but it's your car... so good luck.

i have a hdi kit check out my build thread in my sig below, if you still have aircon you have to cut alot of the bumper... but it is an awesome kit and very well made, for the money it is definitely the best in the market. but if you have the money like Rick said what you get is what you pay for. i dont like the autobahn cheap and the pipe work is naff, but alot of people run them and have nice power and good results

What the engine light comes on while you are boosting? that sounds a lot like fuel cut to me... dont get a fcd it not the proper way to do things, save your money and get a emanage blue or a standalone ecu like the jam, blitz etc. or if you are not going to run alot of boost get a hks ot toytuning actuator and a rrfpr (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) take it to a rolling road and get it set up at 0.8 and leave it alone. if it's boosting to 0.9 yes you are over boosting and probably hitting fuel cut or getting very close to it. the engine management light comes on just before fuel cut

ok this is not my fault it's still at the crappy garage as a mechanic was signed off for two weeks so work load got a bit big but everything is on and the engine is running so... should have it back tomorrow fingers crossed.

well whats the spec of the car, are you running the standard ecu? if you are over boosting on a standard ecu you must be hitting fuel cut? but you haven't mentioned this, have you got a fcd (fuel cut defender)? a split boost line would mean a lack of boost e.g. doesn't spool or does spool but really late like at 5k revs, do you have the standard actuator or a uprated one?

don't no if auto are supposed to bounce off the limiter? not sure if they do... it might be an idea to change the actuator, even if it's just another standard one for the time being to see what happens.

then it shouldn't really pop flames, the only reason i know of it fuel cut that's when the car goes over it's stock boost level around 0.85 and for safety reasons fuel cuts happens, this will result in a big jerk then sometimes a backfire or flames as there is unburnt fuel in the exhaust. if you don't already get a boost gauge, then see what you are boosting at before it happens and report back.

does it come onto boost at all? as if you have the standard actuator like said above the diaphragm inside could have torn, so there is no pressure in the actuator so it isn't doing anything, perhaps try replacing it with another standard or uprated hks, toytuning one. does it make any specific noise when coming onto boost or does it just sound like normal except without the turbo spooling?

do you get a jult before it happens could be fuel cut? what is the spec on your car? it could only be popping flames if you are running rather rich

just sounds like some bad connections to me... cant be anything else, either not quite spliced into the line right or the Auto Gauge wiring into the actual gauge is abit naff. all you can do it try and re wire it perhaps take them out connect them up to the car battery to see if they work if they do just re splice or solder in making sure there are no brakes in the line... also while going on about brakes in the line there could be a loose wire in the actual line itself in which case you would need new wires to the gauges or find the brake cut that bit of wire out and re wire etc.

check your other thread dude

soon lol.

doesn't do anything lol, some people do it because they think it looks good some do it because there isn't much room in the engine bay for a big filter of the turbo. can let in small dust particles which over time naff up the comp wheel, also like Markoos said the mesh can snap and get drawn into the turbo... not good lol

No lol

cant say mine it a great example as i havnt cleared alot of my pipes lol: i also have a catch can now in place with hosing but isnt in pic

Cheers buddy and why Toyota ever thought the efi pipe was a good idea is beyond me lol ...update coming soon