Asad
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Everything posted by Asad
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All the N/A owners are chasing more power, have a look at the builds section to give you an idea of where to start if your stuck just send me a pm
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Mate, dont google it......forget you ever heard the title
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Theres some fucked up stuff on the net, made my stomach turn ^^^ the hammer one...what goes around comes around that poor man, my heart goes to him the guys who did that are sick, weak and cowardly (even says they picked out people who clouldn`t defend them selves.... )
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What exactly did you order?? Wrong section by the way
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Not too keen on leaving a number on the thread just yet hence why i`ve stated for people to contact me through pm, i check the site 2-3 times an hour when possible and if theres a chance i dont respond etc enzo and a few other lads have my number ;) Nothing dodgy here bud, just a simple straight forward service...no jobs as of yet to provide feedback just a matter of waiting Asad
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do you accelerate fast? in order to save fuel you have to be EXTREEEEEMLY light on the gas pedal also change gear before boost, i change at 2-2.5k One thing ive noticed is the N/A is really sensitive to even a small change in pressure on the pedal if it helps i get 180-200 for £20 thats with the occasonal adrenaline rush ;)
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Just disconnect the turbo pipes?......even on low it cant be drinking that much, surely???
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For N/A..... Volt incase belt breaks etc.......but then the bat light comes on Temp....we have a water temp gauge oil pressure.....the light comes on oil temp.....guess this would be a good one so you can start reving higher etc
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Bump.....
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Have you checked for leaks? fluid level ok??
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Had a new clutch ~10k ago so defo not that my guess is gearbox oil shifter bushes
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i have the same issue but with 1st gear.....i assumed it was worn shifter link bushes
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Decent wipers? uprated bulbs? £30 worth of V = cruise somewhere seat covers/mats club sticker/other stickers ignition leads? uprated bushes?
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Sub is a must IMHO i have a vibe 10" its like a house (weighs ALOT has its own separate amp aswell) looking to get something like this soon........ http://www.clarendoncarradio.co.uk/images/...s_wx22a_lrg.jpg or http://www.clarendoncarradio.co.uk/images/...s_wx11a_lrg.jpg (prefer this) or http://www.forum307.com/upload/vignettes/drzeng/3tui8xq.jpg
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Yup, read about the length of the runners somewhere....minor issue eeeeeeeeeeekkkkkkk didnt want to hear the word piggyback= money IF this will work it will take me a couple of days to get the parts and a day to fit which is no problem i have enough money to bank role this just that now you mention piggyback its whats going to hold me back now....
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Hey, Been looking into ITBs for my N/A....having done a little research i`ve worked out the following Get suzuki itbs 700/750 variant chop up old manifold and join both with silicone joiners add V-stacks (all to the correct length in order to get it all to fit/air flow etc etc) block suzuki injector holes, attach fuel rail/injectors and attach the set-up to the head connect all the vac hoses to some sort of cylinder and run a line to map sensor to the little fuel thingy on the fuel rail brake booster (could also run this off one of the suzuki injector holes use the stock suzuki tps (depending on the values it puts out) OR mod N/A one to fit mod the throttle cable to fit And thats as far as ive got......anyone shed some light on anything i`ve missed? will it work? can the engine take it? will i NEED standalone to control fueling/ignition? Asad
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Nice Starting with the best approach there bud, get all the old shite out wires etc etc
- 343 replies
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- Bluebear
- Slowest project ever
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around £80-100 Starlets love eating release bearings for some reason......
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@ Tobiah.....Hes a fully qualified/certified MOT tester so can do pre-mot checks there and then....if you require a MOT test he can arrange it at the garage where he works as a MOT tester.....bit confusing but in short yes both jobs can be done @Cheshire, let me know when and where Also the MOT test fee is £50-55
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Already got the all clear from enzo
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Bit of background....Based in central Manchester, any job undertaken my old man is a MOT tester/mechanic and has been for the last 10 years. Most jobs can be done right outside your home using only the best of tools done quickly and efficiently. Some rough prices for you For the starlet, all variants Basic engine service £15, includes changing oil,oil filter, air filter, spark plugs. (prices changes at the addition of fuel filter,brake fluid change etc) Timing belt £70 Water pump £80 Clutch £125 Suspension related items (CVs, shocks,springs,bearings,wishbones) £20-40 a side Pre-MOT check £20 where possible failures/advisories flagged up before the MOT, minor bulbs replaced etc. Brake related (pads, discs, braided lines, drums,cylinders) £15-£35 Engine parts (alt,starter,power steering pump, throttle body/inlet cleaning, dizzy change etc) £25-£50 Most after market parts fitted.....turbos, manifolds, ALK, body panels, lights etc etc (except FMIC, rear ARB) Other cars are also dealt with All prices without parts, and are rough prices (anything can be uncovered when carrying out a repair such as leaks/seals/worn parts) Most if not all jobs carried out the same day (if wrong parts are provided then this will need to be discussed with the owner). All scheduled repairs attended to within the hour dependent on location, £25 call out fee (this will not be charged if the repair is carried out by us) Parts can be provided at an extra cost, money will be needed upfront for the parts (this is to keep our strong relationship with the supplier intact in-case there is fall out and allows the repair to be carried out straight away) No cheap parts are used we only install what we would put into our own cars and genuine parts will be advised where deemed essential. I have supplied parts to a handful of lads on here, I am sure they can vouch for my service and the quality of the parts. A detailed reciept will be provided with every repair, stamps for service books and the repair will be logged into out main computer (speeds up the process when obtaining parts, possible causes, highlights any part issues, allows us to contact you etc) I have signed in everyday since I've joined and am known by most of the local lads, regularly turning up to meets (check out my s l o w build thread on quality of work/parts fitted/used) If possible i will be with my old man at the repair helping him. Any questions/complains/enquires please do pm me Asad
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1) Alt 2) water pump 3) power steering pump 4) ac pump 5) crank pulley The timing belt only drives the crank/cam/oil pump/idler/tensioner
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As per last time, im working if my breaks around then ill pop over
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Sorry, but without any aux belts the powersteering pump/alt/water pump do not operate......i find it hard to see how the water pump has broken.....if theres no belt it stops spinning If you saw steam etc the car was over heating (as theres no belt > therefore pump is not circulating water > therefore water is not moving around the block/rad to cool it)
