StarletRick

new ZEP lines are in, and they are cheaps...

dont have a full loom diagram but heres the ECU. what plugs are you stuck with, i might be able to help you.

yeah, its one of my faves aswell. its not as good as your gold one though MC ;] that was the winz

oh the ebay ones? buy them then mate. good to know you are supporting your UKSC TC Traders ;[ ;[ ;[ *tears*

i has competetors? who the feck is kelsport?

im negotiating prices atm mate. seeing if i can get them in hardened steel instead of ally for not much price change. ium broking away mate

anyone got a pic of the trd shifter? the one i had still had rubber mounts with metal inserts?

ah i got it! points fur me. when you remove the AC, you have to bridge the terminals on the AC plug near the passenger side headlight. or the fan stays on all the time. and before you put a new tghermo in, run it without one. see if that helps. drain the coolant. then on the side of the thermo housing wher the hose going to the top on the rad is, youll see that it can unbolt. its 2 bolts holding the little dome part on. unscrew it, take the thermostat out (its like a little spring liiking thing) then put it all back without the thermo in it, and remember to take out the rubber ring aswel

if you can get the air filter in the bumper, then do that.

the stock gearbox will stock redline at 146 mph, assuming you have the HP to get there. and for a turbo car you want longer gears. youve got the torque to manage it, and on a track youll go faster staying in a longer gear than shifting up and down alot. shifting = time off throttle. motorway cruising youll be doing about 4,000 rpm just to keep up with traffic. if you were staying NA id say go for it as it could be fun, but youre going turbo, and you want the length in the gears.

you numpty. did you not think to check that!!! lol. firstly take your thermostat out, soo if that works. if it still overheats then fuck knows... have you got the AC removed, because if you remove the ac and dont bridge the wires, the fan is on constantly.you are gunna have to give us some proper details for us to even try to diagnose this over the net.

as if youd declare it. lol.

ill give you 25 quid for them mate. let me know.

probably means adjustable shocks or something.

yeah if youre running NA. forced induction is a different story, you want the air in the chamber sharpish. not going through 8 miles of curvey pipes.

it is not about a rolla intake on a turbo car.....

fyi the fan switcher oner sensor is on the thermostat housing.

ive seen one burple glanza conserion in my time a few years ago. looks pretty mint. if you do need the parts, i can get pretty mcuh anything for starlets from japan. i have a glanza front and rear bumper at home actually.... tempted yet ^^

thermostats hold open, so itll be cold. and there wont be any water in the overflow if its stuck closed. check the fuse for the fan. and then check the fan itself (just apply a 12v current to the terminals) also did you let the car run od idle with the rad cap OFF when you filled it up??? if not you may have air in there.

just reallign it to pass the MOT mate. i know you can do this, i used to do it on my dads chevvy.

anything more than 15 inch and you deserve to be raped.

mate, you look like angelina jolie, id definitly give you one.

you need some clear side repeaters mate :angry:

if theres no chassis damage, youll be fine. get pics of the chassis and boot floor.

its be lush, id catch you up on the straights, then youd beat me on the corners, then id be like HAI again on the straights. wed drive about for hours lolling and hugging etc. imagine it.