Glanza_Ragger

FCD's are only good for the bin. Get proper management if you dont want to take ANY chances. If you really cant afford a piggyback or the like, get a BCC, something like the JAM or Greddy ones. They alter the clamp signal, alot safer than the HKS FCD which literally just fool youre ecu into thinking its not anywhere near fuel cut. But if you do for a BCC you will still want something to adjust the fuelling, something like an SAFC or NEO etc will do the job. I mean by all means fit a FCD and crank that boost up and see what happens. ;)

I used to have a Gibson SG but i sold it when i needed the cash ;) I just play with my acoustic now, i prefer the warmer sound

are you running a ct9 still ? front exits just sound stupid with ct9s. On the other hand, front exit + td05 + boost = ;)

You can play it safe and run it at about 3bar temporary untill you get it mapped. I never suggest people fitting FCD's , there THE fastest way to kill an engine. And it would definately be an expensive mistake for you to make, ditch the idea of upping the boost past fuel cut untill you have proper management. Otherwise you will regret it. IF you really have to run past fuel cut for some unknown reason without proper fuel management, run either a greddy or jam BCC. throw the hks version in the bin, there shat

Ditch the air con, thats why god created windows.. or something like that And yeah, makes oil filter changed a 5 minute thing now instead of arsing about trying to get round the compressor. You'll benefit from the reduced weight more than an increase in power bud. Its ever so slight you wouldnt notice.

You'll need to hook up a wideband gauge and exhaust gas temp gauge to set that PFC up correctly so theres no risk of detonation bud. With those 2 gauges its pretty simple to setup, the GCC allows you to fine tune each rpm band

Haha just noticed this thread, ive had this since Sunday.Ive been off work all week so far, and i highly doubt the way im feeling atm ill be going in tomorrow. Sore throat from coughing too much, temperture , hot and cold sweats, shivers and on tuesday i passed out Fair play to the bug, its killing me and i dont normally get affected by colds too bad. So many people i know have it as well, soon as im over it ill be beating the ill people away with a feck off ugly stick. STAYYY AWAYY

£112 for a temp? got more money than me bud lol There studs and you can get them from Sheekey on here or youre nearest toyota dealer.

Buy a boost controller.

Let the warm up to operating temp. Then if you need to adjust the idle do it with all electronics off, ie headunit, lights, heaters etc. On the intake manifold there is a little black round grommet on the right hand side, near the intake pipe. Remove the rubber and adjust via a flat heat screwdriver.

Ello Rich, there should be a bit of play in the driveshaft. Grab it in the middle of the shaft and push it towards the gearbox, then pull it towards the hub. It should have a few mm's of movement, you should know if the shaft isnt tight as there will be play in the wheel. Jack the wheel up, and make sure the wheel is bolted up tight.Then give it a wiggle, there should be no play in the wheel. If there is play in the wheel, the hubnut is probably loose from when he changed the cv joint. Pop the wheel off, remove the split pin holding the hub nut retainer on.Pull off the retainer and get an e

I dont think its exactly the same on every car, bout 0.4 low and about 0.6/7ish high depending on breathing mods.. Somebody will clear that up for me. I ditched it as soon as i got my car because boost is limited in 1st and 2nd gears on glanza's. Keep it on high and dont put youre foot down, bit of common sense is all it needs bud. Craig.

If you REALLY wanted the option of having the button, just buy a button off somebody whos breaking a starbo, and also purchase the control solenoid too, it will plug straight into the 4efte loom as a normal GT or V would do bud. I wouldnt bother though, personally.

No , the actuator controls the boost. the hi/low button only acts as a cut off valve. It would be as is you was permantly on high boost.. So not a problem.Most glanza owners remove the hi/lo button and run it permantly on hi as in my how to any way bud

Solder wont stop the wire comming out of the plug. Contact Demon Tweaks for a catalogue and they sell plug diy kits, you will have to put a new pin on the end of the wire so it doesnt pop out of the plug.. If thats what you mean.. If you mean the actual wire has split, youll have to solder and heatshrink it?

The tie i was using to hold the line to the damper with has snapped, allowing the line to rub on the damper. = Split, just nipping to Daves to pick 2 x fronts up now.

Cheers for the reply lads, even though i have that major cold goin round atm im still forcing on ! So out in the cold again today Yeah Rob, the V WILL be on the road as soon as ive sorted this braking problem out.Wouldnt be much fun driving with just a handbrake :harhar: a starlet one at that! And yeah, hopefully in the new year ill have my 2 bride seats turn up so ill have a complete '96 V interior including the carpets going. Ill pm you as soon as i have the seats out, unless you just want the rear section buddy? Craig (with a cold)

Had the car on the mot brake tester today and suddenly pop, brake fluid everywhere.. Luckily its only round the corner from me so popped it home but didnt get time to look under the arch as it was pouring down.. I got under the mot pit to have a look and hard to spot where it was comming from with the wheel on, but it looks to be pissing out from near the damper, above the caliper..So im assuming the union has bust? Its not comming from the banjo on the caliper, but whats the chance ill take the wheel off and the braided line has a split ? Ive never heard of one splitting before under pressure

As Paul stated, there heavy enough not to want to transport it in a 1.3's boot lol Scrounge a larger engined car and it'll be cheaper on fuel.. or courier it

I was just wondering what condition his must be in,fair play if he wants/needs to replace them bud.

THE best thing you can do to the standard brake setup is braided lines.That way you wont be getting any spongyness from the original rubber lines expanding under pressure. Discs are helpfull if you trackday as the grooves will help dissipate the heat build up on the disc surface and obviously different pads for different uses, some have low brake dust, some resist brake fade extremely well for trackdays or heavy braking etc. The cusco stoppers are a close 2nd after braided lines though imo.

Not much point worrying about torque settings unless its for drivetrain bolts/nuts or engine internal stuff. 13nm for the caps, bloody hell my torque wrenches dont even go down that low and ive got a 5 ranging. Just tighten everything with a bit of common sense, you know if youre going to strip a thread etc by feel. And why are you worrying so much about little nicks out of the lobes? if the cars running fine, you wouldnt notice the difference even if you bought brand new cams from toyota unless literally a lobe is missing

Unless its been painted over or removed for some reason, the genuine body items have a little metal plate with JAM embossed on them, 2 rivets holding them on. Bit like the chassis plate in youre engine bay but smaller. Also the genuine ones are stronger because there made with a few extra layers of fiberglass and a better quality gelcoat. You wouldnt notice the strength difference because at the end of the day there all fiberglass and if you smash it, it will shatter. Only bad thing ive noticed with the replica kits is that, the replica rear bumpers havent got mounting holes that go undernea

Mate, look at the diagran that Jay posted for you.. Its pin number 6 on the middle plug.. Im assuming you have bought a el cheapo air/fuel ratio gauge that only ever shows half the mix? If youre running it off of youre o2 sensor you wont get a decent reading because a ) the sensor will be old and B ) the sensors not far enough from the turbo. Buy a decent kit such as Innovate or AEM and they supply a boss that you weld into youre exhaust pipe, a new bosch sensor with all the correct plugs fitted.All you wil have to do is find an ignition on live and an earth to mount the gauge, and plu

Fit the FCD and crank the boost up to warp speed 9 [EDIT] That ^ was a joke.The only thing that fcd's are good for, is the bin! As Si said, if you dont plan on running an ecu that overrides fuel cut, and you have to do it the crude way..Buy either a greddy or jam etc that adjust and dont just fool youre engine into not being any where near fuelcut .. Becuase you know what running lean means people... KaPoW as batman says