Glanza_Ragger

Ive got a theory.. FCD's = BANG What are you using to up the fuelling past fuel cut if you were to fit one?

Seeing as it does tell you what model (corollas) it fits, id have a guess at it DOESNT fit an ep91.. the title gives it away [1981-87 toyota corolla clutch]? If you want a decent clutch for standard - around 200bhp go for either an ACT or Exedy organic item.If youre going higher than 200 go for either a carbon mettalic or basic paddle such as Exedy,TRD,Orc,ACT etc. But make sure it states that it fits the STARLET with youre year in the range lol

Yeah, its the outter joints that have different number of splines. You have to remove youre driveshaft and count how many splines there are and order which ever is needed bud

Look in the HOW TO section bud, as Enzo pointed out, i made a guide the other week luckily for you lol. If youve removed the rear engine mount/drive shafts and front passanger side engine mount , jack the engine up so its level and assuming you have all the bolts removed holding the box onto the block, it should pull off with a bit of (gentle) persuasion Craig.

The GT and Glanzas do NOT need a cat and unless youre running seriously stupid fuelling, it will pass with out a problem. It will come under something like the standard idle emissions test , which is what they run on things like kit cars etc. I hate mot testers who fail these cars on emissions with a passion, kick him in the gonads and squat on his face!

Ive just seen the thread, i cant believe it! I loved youre starbo, it was easiest one of my favourites of only a handfull bro. The good thing is, like the other lads have said, youre still in one piece and here to tell us about it. A car is just a bit of fun at the end of the day, money can buy another, but money cant buy you health so thats one thing to be thankfull of. And anyway, im pretty sure that when you do find the next EP to attack, it'll turn out even better ! I'll keep my eyes peeled for an EP in cari blue for you bro, like i said im so gutted for you. Another minter is gone Cr

Right, first off this is a brief description of the steps needed. 1) Jack the car up at suitable points. 2)Empty gearbox oil 3)Unbolt lower arm from hub 4)Pull driveshafts out from gearbox 5)Unclip the gear selectors 6)Unbolt clutch slave cylinder line from gearbox 7)Unbolt clutch slave cylinder (2 x 12mm bolts) 8)Remove 5 main gearbox - engine bolts (17mm) and all smaller ones holding debris cover onto side of gearbox 9)Remove starter motor (i do this to make removal and re-fitting of gearbox easier) 10)Remove front passanger side gearbox mount from chassis (2 x bolts) & rear gearbox mou

Looks identical to the other bargain stainless manifold shitters. The brace will crack where it meets the turbo flange no doubt. If you REALLY intend on running a ct9 stainless manifold, i personally would brace each seperate runner to the head flange, and maybe rethink the tiny brace holding the cone to the turbo flange. Obviously the standard item will last longer with a braced downpipe but regardless of the downpipe being braced or not, it will crack. Only thing you can do is add to it, and help the strength of it. Also heat wrapping will help it from cracking, as stainless usually crac

Sorted 'guv! I dont know if you have any Ajay motor parts stores in youre area, but thats the company i used.. And i know for a fact Citroen garages can supply the outter boots from one of there parts suppliers same day. Just incase you have trouble finding somewhere that can get them in a rush. Craig.

On the toyota epc rom, the n/a cv boots are a different part number to the jap ep82/91 boots so im not totally sure. And when i asked my local parts shop if the uk spec boots were the same part number as the jdm ones, they said no. Try youre local motor factors like i said, unless youre willing to fork out about £60 for genuine toyota ones, which they will no doubt have to order from belgium! Contact Dave and he may have some, ive got 2 x inner boots comming from him, and i bought 2 x outter boots (blueprints) from my local motor factors. If he has any in stock them he may post next

Yeah, could well be, unstick it and have a look for any writing on it, it is kinda the obvious thing to do after all. But as Paul said, some people stick wave expanders on the jdm head units to expand up to the 100's on fm frequency.. Has it still got the jap head unit in the car? And cant you just follow the wires behind the dash to see where they lead to, that way theres no need to guess

On top of the intake manifold, directly to the left of youre inlet, above the throttle linkage. behold the photoshop skillz brap brap Just a reminder, the chatter noise is turbo stall.Not too good for youre turbos lifespan and should be avoided if possible really.It'll sound cool untill youre turbo shits into the engine

Try Dave Burwash bud.He might be able to sort you out. If he cant for any reason, and youre after an outter boot, nip to a motorfactors and order one from there.

yeah, there quality manifolds but obviously being mild steel, going to be prone to rusting.Might be worth buying a little pot of rust removing gel and brushing it over the manifold, then wire brush it down . that gel will kill all the rust in the metal, usually it bubbles up and then you clean it off.. It should take the rust straight off down to bright steel, if you just coat ontop of rust, the rust will bubble through the new coating and itll just peel again.

Dont bleed brakes with the engine running. Start at the corner furthest from the resevoir, moving to the front closest to it.

There probably made out of a used condom and some clingfilm Saying that, isnt a single durex worth more than £2.50? lolz Craig.

Being mild steel, it will rust no matter how much coating you put on. He doesnt produce these manifolds anymore, i think the materials was costing too much for him to make any money out of it. And it was over a year ago he stopped making them, being a manifold, i think youll be very lucky about a warranty lol. My coating has started comming off, so im going to remove it and buy some ceramic coating asshole cans for it. Best to re-coat it before the rust gets too major. Best bet for that manifold is to attack it with a wirebrush attatchment on a drill or grinder, and muller it.Any rust spots

As Jay said, also if it sounds as if its comming from around the injectors, it more than likely is.There pretty noisy.

Where it hinges at the bottom bolt, there is a hole in the bracket it hinges on..Get a bar in there and prise it, or give it a few light taps with an extension bar and mallet. there solid if they havent been out for the cars life.

£5 quid one ? barrrrgain haha was it a bodge and scarper split one ? with the shite glue.. mine lasted about 2 weeks then shit itself

Went to toyota for an ass raping this morning, £150 for the complete front set inner/outter.. I quickly turned around, picked up the lube and escaped. Got the outters for £12 from a motor factors (blueprints) and ill get the inners from Dave when i order my alternator belt.Sorted

Chase & Status - Disco Serious tunage with my new bedroom setup

Cheers bro, i know Dave sells them, but i was hoping somebody knew how much they were from toyota as i was HOPING to pick some up tomorrow if they had any in stock, if not ill just get some off Dave. I only used the universal boots because i was too lazy to pull the driveshaft out to replace a proper one that doesnt split Seeing as im ripping the gearbox off tomorrow, and the shafts are going to be out, i may as well fit genuine ones. Any ideas how much inner and outter ones are from toyota? ill end up buying all 4 whilst there off

I thought there was a certain db reading that the car has to be making, for it to be classed as excessive ? most jap exhausts are around 96db. very rarely go over 100 because of track noise regulations in japland

Buy a screamer pipe..