Glanza_Ragger

Ill be there !

Ah i wasnt sure if it was bspt or npt. Ages since i had mine out.

why dont you take yours out and find out?

I havent got any photos of where it is, but its on the right hand side of the manifold, kinda behind it. It has a kind of push on spade connection. single wire going to it. Some have a type of nut fitting, so you can use a spanner, some you need to use vicegrips to remove. you might have to take the manifold heatshield off to get to it, i honestly cant remember if you can see it with the heatshield, i would have thought you could.. Even it if is tight for space If you need a T-piece in a hurry, find out what threads you need and phone demon tweaks up, they can send you one next day and th

I used a heat gun Idrees, just heated the ends up which were bonded in with pu adhesive. Slide a flat head under the whole length and they just popped out Had a tiny spot on rust appearing underneath one of them, so ive sorted it out

Most sensors are 1/8thNPT but i cant remember if jap cars use npt thread or bspt, ive never had to check the thread on any of the engines sensors to be honest bud.. Im sure it is 1/8npt because a mate of mine bought a standard t-piece for the engines sensor hole to run his pressure sensor from for his gauge.. I took mine from the oil filter housing though so.. Best bet is to take the sensor out and get a thread pitch checker, its like a feeler gauge but for threads, you just hold it up against the thread untill the teeth match up and it tells you what size thread and also if its bsp , bspt,

nice one im not too fussed over how shiny they are haha, the cars just going to get abused from now on anyway Thanks guys

Haha and theres me trying to pull mine off with no luck! Ill heat them up a tad and see if they lift off, i just dont want to order any from toyota and get bent over for a few hundred pounds for some rubber

isnt it 1/8npt?

Nice guide mate The water pump is a prick of a job, but that way you shown is the easiest way to go about it i found.Without removing the cover you cant get to 1 of the bolts holding the pump on.

How do i remove the gutter rail rubbers without damaging them on the starlet? Are they clipped in, bonded in, double sided sticky taped in or are they slide on type? I dont want to put any bends in them as i remove them.By the looks of the bit ive tryed lifting off, they look to be stuck into the gutter recess with double sided tape? Craig

Use a wax, not a polish. Polish cuts the surface slightly and will put swirl marks in the resin. Wax will just protect the resin and create a water bead Unless youve laquered the carbon bits, a cutting compound wont really touch the resin coat on the cf parts, it shouldnt dull.

Darnley road in strood.. The little pikeys will feel right at home!

You get some right pricks up lakeside, full of little chavvies. If i was the police i would have got the smg's out and ass raped them all with lead .

As Paul said again lol How do you know what boost its running if you have no boost gauge? First thing, install one and figure out what its running. Second thing, turn the boost down a tad below fuel cut. Third thing, forget fcd's even exist

Excellent looking site mate, especially with the proper online shop and cart system. Hope the broadened venture goes well for you Craig.

The spluttering then the engine management light comming on is fuel cut.Thats why when you turn ignition off and back on, the light is gone. Also a give away its fuel cut because youre boosting to 0.9 with no form of management or fcd fitted. As Paul said, FCD's are the quickest way to blow an engine up.Forget the idea and look into spending the extra money on a piggyback ecu. If you dont know much about these engines, have a proper read up on them before you decide to bypass fuel cut and crank the boost up.

If anybody fancys buying a greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller, bring £100 with them tonight and you can have mine.Selling it, just thought id tell you lot going to the meet tonight before i list it in the for sale section. Ill bring everything with me, controller, solenoid and all vacum piping.Also the greddy warranty and instruction manual. Used but in basically new conditon.

As quoted on the www.vosa.gov.uk website in there emissions section. "What if the vehicle is fitted with a different engine? If the vehicle is fitted with a different engine from the one it was originally fitted with, then for emission purposes you should test to the limits determined by either the vehicle type or engine - which ever is older. For example, if you are presented with a 1995 car fitted with a 1991 engine of any make, you should test it according to the age of the engine. In this case, you need to do a non-CAT test, with limits of 3.5%CO and 1,200ppmHC. Its up to the owner to pr

And you will only fail the basic idle emission test if youre engine is fubared! Basically!

Kara, not being funny but youre bf must be one of the idiot mot testers im talking about! IF he was a proper mot tester who entered grey import on the computer he would realise its a basic idle test It really pisses me off, you obviously dont have a clue and 'nor does youre boyfreind. Northern Ireland has a different mot test and they WILL need a cat to pass. By all accounts, trust youre bf, obviously you cant say he's wrong.. But he is.Sorry about that. Easy way to solve it, Phone VOSA and ask them.Then come back and say im right. If its not a grey import, it will need a cat fitted after '

Exactly. If the mot tester doesnt really have a clue, he will log it on as a toyota starlet 1.3. And guess what, if the glanza v variable doesnt appear on his computer, he wont run a basic idle test. If he runs it as a uk spec, it will first be visually checked for a catalyst. So he will open the bonnet, look for a cat.See theres not one there and fail it. IF for some reason he does pass the visual inspection, maybe for some odd reason you have a decat that looks like a catalyst.. OR youre running with the standard catalyst housing but youve gutted it, it will pass but fail on the load emiss

Generally speaking, Bluey pale petrol smelling smoke, and smoke when youre putting the car under strain is valve seals. Grey, oily stinking smoke on idle is turbo seal shot. If it ONLY chucks out oily grey smoke on idle, then its youre turbo.Either send it away to get reconned, or recon it youreself.There pretty simple if you have a bit of common sense Hope that helps bud

I dont believe some people.Imagine all the particles of grit and general everyday shit you would take in with no airfilter. AIRFILTER.. the name kinda gives the game away, it filters the air? Hope you have the bov mounted bud.The HKS valves do sound pretty unique, especially with the high pitched internals.Has to be one of my favourite sounding.

Youll probably melt the plug that pushes onto the bulb.Thats what normally happens due to too much heat when running higher wattage bulbs