ecksjay

what you after specifically? retrim etc? I have some TRD Carbon interior panels on the way from japan, they replace the window switch surrounds and centre console surround. i could sort you out with a retrim too if thats what you were insinuating.

96, yes, 97 will require esva.

they need to be stock for the ESVA remember ;)

no, they arent, the gt seats are more winged, hold you in far better, and have the option for using harnesses etc.

.........use a large hammer and a crow bar???

As far as i know, they didnt actually 'track' it, from the translation and the other pics on there, the pics were sent in by geo or someone who knows who he is, as they have a gallery section of various cars with jam bits on that are sent in by the owners of the cars. i was shocked when i saw it a week or so ago on the homepage though, well impressive ;)

i'm bristolian, so yes, i am. yarrrrr.

enzo - this situation of being 'too light' has been discussed on tgtt, its not bs im making up, its actually got some validity too it hehe its all about grip really, if they're too light then the best tyres in the world aint gonna get the level footing they need.

pwned.

a large hammer and a crow bar. that should get the cunts off, yahar.

the K&N's will do the same job as the TRD mate, maybe even better, the TRD's will be designed to run in japland whereas the K&N's will prob last alot longer.

the rear seats dont weigh much at all, removing them wont see much difference. air con is prob about 25kg's worth, lighter wheels would help (mine are like 4kg each :/), removing boot trim, no ice (using ice in the first place is going against what removing weight would achieve :/), if you want decent tuns use a small lightweight amp and some decent comps in some sort of custom pod, will be nice and light and sound good. although, the reason starlets handle like crap in the first place is due to several reasons, the main being they're TOO light, they skip all over the place and dont get as much grip as they would if they were heavier, so being too lightweight aint always the best idea, especially for handling.

maybe, only way to know is to try. spacers aint the best idea really so just give it a go and see.

Tell me bout it! I used to do it mate, was an assistant for the tests themselves aswell as helping out with the conversions/preparations etc, so i know exactly whats involved (althoughy obviously not for every individual model report, because that varies greatly).

50 in a 60, thats not exessively slow, sounds fine to me, especially if it was dark.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_WISH muppet :/

indeed, my cousin owns modelreportsdirect.com, so has quite a few to choose from of varying prices. autoadvan charge a packet, there's loads of other places where they actually buy their cars from, loads of sites online which do the same service, but advan add a few grand on for the privaledge. did you look at any of the other sites, or the USS Auctions etc?? Would be worth looking at how much they want for the MR though, i'd be inclined to let them prepare it too because you wont know what the numbers need to be, they'll have the MR to hand and as such will be able to get the parts needed in case numbers dont match etc.

best way is to phone them mate, they'll have to know exactly what it is, dont wanna get caught out with no insurance with imports its best to talk to them anyway, not worth the risk. nice work anyway, who did you use to bring it in if you dont mind me asking? i'm not aware of who actually owns the model report for that model civic (for the ESVA), you know who you're gonna be renting it from??? good luck.

like you'd say no...

its all relevant mate, if it helps someone then its a good thing. try and keep it away from kurbs is your best bet mate, the smallest scratches and the laquer is done for, as soon as water gets in there they're ruined. on the weakness part, its big pot holes etc which get the better of em, like all cheaper wheels, just go steady and they should keep on looking sexual.

circle earth AND condensor? you do realise they're complete cons and waste of money? the earthing is all you need, them condensors are useless. can get earthing systems which are nigh-on identical to the hks circle earths from ebay, and they're less than a 1/4 of the price (all you need is a block to bolt to the earth, and the cables, job done). sorted. also, i never knew aem made boost controllers, whats the solenoid like?

..... fucking deal. just name the time and the place sweet pea.

love is in the air...

very poor painting/laquering, tend to corrode etc far quicker than others (alot have been buggered in less than a year, whereas alot of jdm rims you see in good condition are upto 10 years old!), same with buddyclubs, plus they're light because they're made cheaply, and as such they bend easily - they aint the strongest things about. you get what you pay for at the end of the day, its to be expected. for the price they do the job nicely considering they're brand new, but as above, there's a reason why rays/wedsport/work/ssr etc are so expensive

not sure its an actual 'jam' car as such, just got some nice parts from them, plus they dont do final drives, thats where TRD come in