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Posts posted by Djaniero
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Thread revival! @5e colin did you any issues fitting these? I bought some via the link above a couple of months back, but only got around to fitting them yesterday. The bolt on the Saab rods were too big to attach to my roll bar...gutted
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No first hand experience myself, but a mate of mine @Dean_mc88 is having one fitted by them before they remap his Glanza.
I don't see why any fab place can't make you up something custom closer to kent though
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They have rails on them already, which I'm 95% sure are lower rails. I just need to figure out the best way to fit them into my car :).
Do you have any pics of the rails that this lad from Ireland supplies?
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Hi,
I bought a pair of fishnet recaros a few weeks ago that were crudely fitted into a glanza with some makeshift custom feet. I want to fit them into my GT, but I was just wondering if anyone had any guides/measurements that I could pass onto a fabricator.
As the seats are already on rails, I assume my best bet would be to have some solid custom feet made up?
Thanks for any info
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1 hour ago, starletezy said:
Yeah i have the boot carpet
Could PM me with price inc Postage to Manchester, if your willing to post?
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Do you have the rear boot carpet?
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As above guys, my front drivers side allen key dampening adjuster on my Meister R's seems to be stuck. (Can remove it but it won't turn clockwise to hard)
I previously had all dampers set to soft all around. Then over the weekend my front shock started to knock - sounded like it was coming from the top mount - so I literally just tightened the main 17mm top nut and the noise went away.
Fast forward to today, I decided to make my suspension a bit more firm and I can't turn the allen adjuster to hard. I can remove it no worries, but once its inserted into the shock it just won't move. I removed the coilover, put a 5mm allen key in the top of the shock and loosened off the 17mm nut - I'm no expert but thought it may help as thats the only thing I adjusted prior to this happening.
Any ideas?
Thanks
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Can you see any other number under the number you gave me? It should start with 89.
The part no I have is 89420-17050.
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A mate of mine has one on his GT running a Power FC. He said they're more of a 2.5bar map sensor....which will be fine for my needs. Can you tell me what the part number is and how much you were after for it?
PM me if its easier.
Thanks
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Are they definitely 3 bar? I remember reading a post some years back on TGTT.com about them being more 2 bar than 3 bar sensors?
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7 hours ago, RobSR said:
You can have it off one fuel map, but 2 different boost tables.
If you want to go over 14psi, yes you will need a 3 bar map sensor.
Would something like this do Rob, or shall I be spending a bit more:
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On 5/21/2019 at 11:35 PM, RobSR said:
It’s pretty simple, but if not yes you can ask your tuner to do it.
As it’s a VE based ECU, technically you can just update the injector size in the calibration to the CC of the RX8 ones, however I would still wait to fit them until you’re at the dyno.
You can download basemaps, last time I checked the firing order, engine cc and stock injector cc was wrong amongst other things so I wouldn’t assume it’s a complete good to go calibration.
If its TD04 under fuel cut, you could drive to your tuner on stock ecu, then fit the ME there when on the dyno and do it all in one go.
Makes more sense to be honest. Thanks
On 5/22/2019 at 4:58 PM, motorsport-electronics said:ECU uses stock boost switch as a digital input that yes, can switcvh boost maps if you want it to
Apologies for the noob question...but does that mean I will have 2 separate maps for high and low boost? Also will I need one of the 3 bar map sensors on your site if I plan to go over 14psi of boost?
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Thanks Rob. Is this simple enough to do - I'm pants with electrics - or should I just hang fire and wait for the remap and ask my tuner to do it?
I've running a td04 setup with all supporting mods below fuel cut atm. I was just going to add some rx8 injectors then get it remapped. You can download base maps off the ME website from what I can gather, but will the car be ok to drive to the tuners - depending on what afs I'm getting on my wideband?
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Its still all connected on the electrical/cabin side Rob i.e.I can still press the boost button and I can see the green light go on and off on the dash. I think its the original solenoid that was ripped on on the engine side, when my mechanic did my td04 conversion.
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Hi guys,
I've just bought an ME221 for my GT, and starting to get bits and bobs to prep the car for a remap. I want to buy a 3 port boost control solenoid to connect to the oem Hi/Low Boost control.
To my knowledge, the oem boost control solenoid was ripped out a long time ago, so I was just wondering how I would plumb/wire in a the 3 port to work with the stock boost button and the ME221?
Thanks
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Thanks. I was after a Laguna splitter, but they gone silly money these days. VR6 one looks just as good though imo.
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Loving this man. How did you attach that vr6 lip to the bumper after you chopped it up?
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Was in a similar situation earlier this year mate. Get your current one rebuilt if you can for peace of mind.
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Hi guys,
Can anyone point me in the right direction of where to get a DET3 from, and what exactly I'll need?
I spoke to a tuner who is happy to map it for me, but said he would need a base map in order to do so.
Thanks
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As above guys....I'm on the look out for a TD04 Manifold and Decat with EWG....preferbly mild steel...but will listen to stainless options too.
I'm replacing my toyosports kit, so not interested in another one.
Let me know what you have
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Hi Guys,
Random one, but hoping some of you gurus might help.
I recently bought an Autofixed Turbo-Back exhaust system (For the noobs, a trader on the forum used to custom make them back in the day...awesome exhaust imo), but the backbox baffles need repairing as you can hear them moving around inside when you shake the backbox,
Anyway, after speaking to a couple of fabricators, they have suggested to just replace the backbox with a new one, instead of repairing my old one. But my concern is, if I do this, that the exhaust may not sound the same :(.
At the moment, the exhaust is 2.5inch straight through with no resonators and a japstyle can with a 3inch tip. Strangely enough it isn't loud at all, sounds perfect. Nice burble on idle, no drone when cruising around and not intrusively loud when on boost.
On the other hand, the hks Hi power style system currently fitted to the car with a resonator is louder than my autofixed system, and does drone a bit when cruising and when on boost.
Can anyone explain to me how the HKS system is louder than the autofixed system, if it has a resonator where as the autofixed is straight through?
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Hi,
can someone give me an idea of how much it would cost to get a bung welded into my down pipe for a wide band o2 sensor, and have the baffles repaired on a backbox?
I would preferably like to take it to somewhere in the North West, but at this rate it looks like I will have to travel further a field to get it done (Not had much look finding anywhere that will do it locally)
Thanks
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Thanks guys.
Gonna crack on with this next week....Excited to get stuck in but kinda reluctant at the same time incase I get something wrong.
I've done basics recently like change discs/pads and changed fluids etc...but never done anything like this before.
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Hi,
My bottom end has gone on my mechanic is going to repair it for me. He's asked me to remove as many parts as I and then he'll come with his crane and remove the the main bits to get the engine out.
Can Anyone give me a rough guide as to what I need to remove in prep for my mechanic to bring his engine crane to remove it? I was thinking exhaust, mani, turbo, fmic pipes rad etc??
Polybushing and drop links for oem anti roll bar.
in Chassis & Suspension
Posted
Stupid question, but is that safe to do?