NightSpirit

Please don't make this harder than it is! It's amazing the effect this little has had.

Bought a house and yes fatherhood... As I've mentioned on the blog, this is the end of the project. I've decided to strip the car due to lack of time and enthusiasm. Another project is planned subject to the sale of the trackstar. Thankyou to everyone for all the comments, encouragement and homosexual undertones. I won't be far away

indeedy

Finally, the snow and rain give up leaving a perfect Sunday for working on cars. The fuel pump housing is due some paint then the tank can go in. I really cannot wait to get this running again...

They're all too busy hugging trees and talking about 'carbon dioxide' etc to be on the internet.

job done, k&n metal stud filter ordered venting under the rear seat area. Cheers Jay and Enzo for the photo offer!

So simply buying a canister and then running that to a brather filter = job done? with the current weather, I want to vent as much crap as possible to warm the planet up. Or better still, just running that line to a breather filter (as per the cam breather) in the atmosphere?

All 3 what? I have no fuel lines, no fuel filter, ACF etc on the car they were all binned ready for the new race stuff. The one that vents, is that simply to the canister in the engine bay? or does it go from there back to the inlet? is it just a straight through pipe with the relief valve on the fuel tank top...

That'd be just the ticket Enzo...will try and get some pics. Mainly where the 3 fuel lines from the tank enter the engine bay, how they fit to the rail, where the fpr sits (inc vacuum to mani) and the aforementioned vapour canister and vent to mani??

On the stock fuel tank, the fuel pump sits on a mounting plate/arm with 3 pipes on top. 1 (centre) is the feed to the engine 1 is return from engine that feeds fuel back into bottom of tank 1 is presumably the breather? As the car came back with no fuel lines etc I'm trying to work out what I need to do with this. Can I simply run it to a vapour canister and then vent it? ideally don't want to run 3 lines to the engine bay again and run it back into the inlet. Assuming the whole purpose of this is to either vent the gas from the tank? any photos of the lines and where they go would be fant

No idea, With the fuel lines, fpr and a few bits of pipework that's all that's going back in. Will get it weighed and setup when I can. I need to stop somewhere or it'll never get back on the road, so many other things I could do.

Now someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the ceramic coating is designed to stop the heat from radiating outwards? as per heat wrap. Hotter gas, faster movement and all that jazz... Where's rico when you need him?

I originally wrapped mine in the top X-Wrap stuff...the only bit not wrapped cracked. So I decided now to let it breath through the vent in the bonnet and leave as is. Never had a mani coated, so unsure how/if it'll save the welds.

I'd like to get the weight right down then add ballast if it needs it, where it needs it As always thanks for the kind words! About 15 months ago the manifold blew a hole and cracked in a few places...that's when all this started. The screamer seems ok, the brace is near the top and at the bottom is a brace to the gearbox housing.

I'd say the EP is about 65% at the front...there isn't much else I can strip or shift. If the rear wing and roll cage cross beam went I'd save another 15kg or so but without the wing on the back it'd swap ends before I started the engine.

I've realised that getting sub 700kg is not easy... It's more about shifting weight now to change the dynamic index of the car to handle better Finish it, track it, maybe take it to the Ring next year on a trailer and crash like a hero.

New update...been busy with lots of tiny things Fuel tank (25ltr) with original Blitz pump and housing Fuel tank sprayed up and the wiring/fitting commences... Oil cooler relocated to the drivers side to free up flow to the radiator and shift some weight around Welding up the rad brackets Fucking, bastard, shite tape crap that's all over the OEM loom More wire found that serves no purpose...bin 530g washer bottle? 250g piss bag please...run to the boot to shift weight

Plan is to get the rad welded into place sunday, then I can refit everything and crack on with the oil cooler. The chap with the fuel tank is fucking about so I'm not sure what's happening there...that's stopping me from plumbing all the fuel lines in etc. On a side note, anyone got a spare washer bottle or pump for washer bottle? mines knackered

Haha! I've finished tidying up all the redundant wires and plugs in the engine bay and re-routed the sensor wires that were just running over the camcover! The IC, rad and oil cooler are now all removed and cleaned. The rad needs brackets welding into place then I can fit up the rad, plumb it in, wire up the rad fan. Refit the filter and pipe. Refit the I/C Relocate the oil cooler to the front offside wing to reduce weight and give a clear path to the rad. Refit the exhaust hanger. Modify the bumper to channel air to the rad and oil cooler. Fit fuel tank, line, FPR, filter. Turn the key 0

Evening...update! Rob, I've not bothered with a second breather as it's pointless in my opinion. Remember, HRF ran 427hp through that cam cover using 1 breather Several updates for you, all pictures and no words because it's late and I'm knackered these days. Can you guess what I'm doing?

Idrees, is the fuel pump (complete with tank mount and bolts for sale? the bloke making my fuel cell appears to have done a bunk so I might need one.

As I've now dropped the fuel tank off with a local fabricator, my attentions have turned to the engine bay... Sadly, I found some plugs that didn't go anywhere (on purpose) and decided now was a good time to remove yet more unwanted copper. There's still a whole lot of work to be done and I'm now tackling more than one area at once as Christmas approaches

Rico..I want to sex your brain. The fan is on a permanent switch in the car and would run all the time...that's not by choice, it's because the wiring fucked up somewhere and/or the thermostat controlling the fan is missing/broke. lol The shrowd isn't as good as it could be as I've used corners which are dead zones for air flow, you can feel the temp different on the face of the core with the fan on in the corners and elsewhere.

Cheers all, As Rico said, alu and steel = fail. The whole thing is braced underneath with a single steel bar and riveted with large rivets, then silicone sealant underneath. Rore mate, you have that arse about face in your observation. Fan on core = shite, fan on shrowd pulling air through whole core = win.

you really are the funniest man in that chair...