NightSpirit

Good point... Any ideas of where I can get my hands on a radiator temp sensor or thermostat? the rad fan is hard wired at present....

Picked up the EP82 yesterday...there she was, sitting in a garage, where she'd sat undisturbed for 18 months. Layers of dust on her a few mm thick...what a sight! Amazingly the battery was put in and after a few minutes of checking things over she fired first time Now I was buying this car off a friend to strip it for sale but, after driving it home...I'm sorely tempted to keep her and turn her into a dedicated track weapon. I've spent the last 6 years driving (occassionaly) a 448hp MR2 turbo which is mental, but budget racing is so much fun. It's going to be a month or so before she's in a fit state to do anything with anyway so my plans might change, but if not...I'm back owning an EP. My plan is to put it right and build on the current spec to go for a 250-300hp track car, using only used parts from the Japanese auctions (hey it's good advertising for my business) I've set a budget of 4-5k...so any build work I'll be doing myself. The spec isn't bad to start with, Blitz SUS, nurspec, fatt turbo timer, sbc-type s, greddy boost gauge, hks ssqv, hks fcd, greddy catch tank, stage 2 clutch, blitz decat, sparco pedals and gearknob, momo wheel. My idea, is to strip it to a shell, fit a full cage, braces, coilovers etc, single seat, rebuilt engine with forgies, Greddy turbo or similar and fmic with Power FC and 570cc injectors plus fuel pump..a nice inlet manifold would also be fun. And a set of 15 or 16" advan rgs to sit on the corners, will 16s hamper performance too much? Will upload some pics soon.

A bit more info. The turbo is good for 350+hp according to the advert... IHI = Ishikawajima-Harima Heavy Industries. I believe they are used by Apex-i. or used to be. Info on them is pretty limited ;) but I'm sure when I was looking at blowers for my MR2 I stumbled across them and they were highly rated, similar to the TD06 from Greddy..they're a true ballbearing turbo so should be pretty hard as nails too. That external gate and screamer pipe will sound awesome if my 2 is anything to go by.

Cheers peeps and thanks Si. Didn't mean to offend you! Just wondered if you had some secret special price on that item. I'll find out the reserve on it and get my contact in japan to stick a bid in...you never know! I was just wondering what a fair price for it would be? incase I decide to get it over here and end up paying over the odds as turbo kits can be a hit and miss affair, although the IHI items are pretty much awesome in every way.

That was quick Si... 105001Y that's already about 500 quid...plus shipping, import duty, tax...yahoo charges and the like...so what's the £473 for ;) Plus the reserve hasn't been met yet! What are these kits worth new or used over here? anyone got one?

it will look awesome...we'll see lol Also, what sort of price (as I can't find one) would a decent turbo like the IHI RHX6 cost (or similar) for the car? I'm thinking manifold, external gate, downpipe etc...don't seem to be many about over here ;)

Ok... Hmmm will think on it then cheers EcksJay

As our Blitz FMIC is almost here...I'm gearing up to fit it to my other half's glanza but she doesn't want a bigger turbo/massive boost etc. So I'm thinking is there any point to fitting it? what will it do for the car from personal experience with them? At some point the Glanza may be passed on to me but not for a while so tuning it up won't happen much more than the stage 1 spec it's at now. I'll prob list it on Ebay if people think it's not worth it for no real bigger plans jsut yet. Also if we stuck it on there and raised the boost, what's the best/safe amount to leave it at with no uprated fueling?

If you're on a budget...and want to get every last drop of poke from the car..and if you plan any other mods..I'd say it can never harm can it? Obviously on the turbo it restricts the turbo slightly...with the turbo it's not going to do as much good, but still it should be of some use if you have a spare few hours to kill

good man ;)

Scutch, This will not derestrict the boost cut in 1st and 2nd gear...it just allows you to run higher boost cheaply. The grainger valve complete with piping cost 11 quid from Ebay second hand. EcksJay, it should be easy it fit a boost controller, let me know if I'm wrong but I'm sure what I said is the way it's done pretty much across the board. The hose I used was just some blue silicon stuff, internal diameter is about 2-3mm with a thickness of 3mm, those are guestimates, I'm a man..I always get measurements wrong ;) Next how-to...fit and cat back exhaust, then change a clutch (that should be interesting).

I fitted an EVC to my mates skyline the other week and it's a doodle...even on a twin turbo setup lol. Wiring should be the same, you'll need a feed to the manifold pressure or tap into the toyota boost sensor for the evc boost pressure and then the same as the grainger with the boost control. As far as I know that's all you ever need to do to control boost, just cut the pipe from the turbo to the actuator and replace with the selenoid or whatever? I've got the boost set at 0.74 in low and 0.91 in high...it doesn't seem to be spiking but if it does the fuel cut will hit before any damage is done ;) Hope this guide was helpful, kind of new on this board and don't want to tell people how to suck eggs...

Sorry if this has already been covered! I fitted a grainger valve to the car because I didn't want to use an aftermarket boost controller due to cost and the fact I don't plan on running more than 1 boost setting or something. Anyway, again, really easy task, shouldn't take more than 20 mins? I chose a grainger valve (also called ball and spring) over a conventional bleed valve as a bleed valve does what it says, allows the turbo pressure to bleed away creating a less aggresive boost map..using a grainger doesn't show the actuator any pressure until the desired boost is reached then it 'cracks' open to release the actuator You'll need: socket set with long extension bar, 10mm and 12mm sockets I think. I started by removing the dump valve (be careful as it's only attached to the base pipe with glue or some sealant stuff, if it comes off, you'll need superglue). This is a few hose clips and 1 10mm bolt. Then remove the turbo to IC pipe for better access. Jubilee clip and 2 10mm bolts should do it. You can now get proper access to the turbo to actuator pipe...just pull this off no problem. Now you attach your new pipe to the turbo side (at the back)...then attach the grainger valves bottom connector to the pipe, connect the other pipe to the actuator side and then to the grainger side. Be careful to use enough hose, and don't get any sharp bends or kinks in the hose!!. Finish off with cable ties round the hose connections and put it all back together. Make sure the grainger is fully wound OUT to start with and go for a spin (making sure you have a boost gauge ofcourse!). Get in 3rd gear and floor it in hi boost, you should put out about 0.60 bar...it might spike higher but that's the figure. Pull over and wind the grainger in 1/2 turn...repeat the process until you get a boost level you're happy with. If you don't have an FCD you should notice fuel/boost cut at 0.98bar...so running about 0.90 is safe I reckon? Sorted.

Actually real easy job...took me about 2 hours in the rain What you'll need: socket set with long extension and medium extension, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm socket. Drill with 32mm or similar wood bit... or a nice big hammer and chisel Basically, make sure you're wearing protective goggles and a face mask (cats are nasty things). Jack the car up and make sure it's secure on axle stands or similar then get under the car and get ready for some stress relief. Firstly, remove both sides of undertray (the ones attached to the front bumper that go to the base of each wheel arch..there are 4 10mm screw/nuts holding these on. Next up, remove the heatshield from the base of the cat, this is the awkward bit as the screws are rusty and one is in a crap position. There are 4, 2 at the bottom and 2 at the sides. With this off you should be able to move it in an angle to the passenger side of the car and remove it. (10mm) Next up disconnect the sensor from the cat, it's a simple 2 wire connector so no problem there. Now remove the 4 14mm bolts that hold on the cat to the front of the exhaust, the base of the cat is square one bolt at each corner. Finally remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the front part of the exhaust in place, when this is done you should see the picture below...moving the exhaust out of the way and securing it on the gearbox/bell housing passenger side. Now you can get to work breaking the cat up...this is why you need the mask as the powdered ceramic isn't good for the lungs. Once you've broken up a bit of the cat, you should find you can pull the rest out (it's held in place with a metal mesh round the sides..it should all come out in one go). Now you just need to make sure all the metal rings are out and the top rings are out (put your hand into the cat and feel for them if they haven't fallen out already)...and bolt it all back up. Enjoy improved spooling of the turbo and a slight increase in turbo pressure (I found).

Got any pics of your coolers fitted? trying to give the missus and idea of what her little car will look like when I'm done with it

I've just hunted down a Blitz jobbie with all hardpiping for the other half's glanza...dimensions are 700mm x 270mm x 70mm...so it's a fair chunk of metal. I think some bumper mods will be needed to get it on right Anyone here done a similar thing can tell me how you got it to fit, I've attached a few pics of the item in question Also, running 14psi on a stock ct9 with decat, exhaust and filter...can the bosot be raised any? I know it'll give cooler inlet temps and hike the power that way and it'll also give less heatsoak and more reliable/stable temps but any other advantages apart from it looking frickin awesome?

I've asked this a few times and either people don't do it on their EPs or it can't be done On the MR2 you can remove the cat from the turbo and smash out the centre to create a cheap decat (a genuine decat has better flow and is lighter though). So I'm thinking of removing the cat and doing the job on the EP. If I remove the three bolts (or however many) from the back of the turbo and unbolt it from the front of the exhaust that should be that should it? remove the innards and then put it back on? Please tell me if this is rubbish

Sorted Passenger footwell area, gromit to the engine bay that's an out pipe? (or possibly in) for the heating/fan...or maybe the water from the AC?...no idea, anyway, just ran the boost pipe through there. The result? lo boost is 0.29bar hi boost is 0.60bar..so spot on...although in hi it spiked at 0.67 before dropping back in second gear. Next mod? grainger valve (easy) then front mount IC...not so easy.

I've wired up the gauge into the ign (it's a Blitz TT with boost) I've tapped into the feed to the pressure sensor with my pipe...now where the hell do I feed it through to the cabin? Can't seem to find any logical place for this. Looked at the loom that goes through on passenger side behind the ECU etc but that seems like a dead end...without ripping out all that crap that's behind the glove box. Any help?

Before I get all dirty under the car, does the standard cat work similar to the one on the sw20 MR2 Turbo? As in, I remove it, smash out the honeycomb, put it back in...voila less restriction. Doing all the mods I can for cheap money for the other half to liven the car up a bit.

As some of you know, the Glanza we were selling is now being kept (ironically) by my other half...she's driven it a bit and loves the car so much she's paying me what I put into it So, as I had an '82 a few years back, I've got a few ideas on tuning the little car up to a more manly figure. First mod is an Apex-i air filter that should go on in about a week. Then comes me decatting the car (presuming like the MR2, you can smash the cat element out). Next up is the grainger valve set at 14psi (I recall 1bar on stock IC and turbo being the limit). Along with that a nice Greddy boost gauge to keep an eye on things. Then I was thinking a Greddy FMIC should be good for a laugh... What other cheeky mods are you guys doing on the cheap? Trying to not feck with the fueling or suspension as she wants it to be as normal as possible.