NightSpirit

Cheers It's so satisfying stripping an interior...and it makes doing shit jobs like replacing/removing the heater matrix etc a bit less shit.

The AP Power FC new is about 600 quid from Japan...the FCon, I haven't got a price yet as I love the FC lol. Shame really as I can pick up PowerFC's for the MR2 for 300 quid delivered E-Manage Ultimate is still piggyback though? E-Manage are very good I have to say.

Well from what I can gather, they aren't mappable by anyone in the UK...unless I'm mistaken? If the Blitz is anything like the Blitz Access from the MR2, it's just a basic stage 1 tune up ecu that raises a few things etc...if I'm planning on a full rebuild, larger injectors, higher boost etc it's going to nee monitoring and fine tuning. If one of the ECU's you mentioned can do this I'll look at them!

Not that I'm planning on doing the engine yet but I'm gathering info on it...The plan is to run 550cc injectors, uprated fuel pump and I need some way of controlling this. I have a Power FC on my MR2 and think it's very very good..but finding an FC for the EP82 that's used (new ones cost a fair whack) is impossible. What options are there then, the fcon v pro? I need an ECU that's mappable in the UK. Also, I've got a price from my guy in Japan for an AP Engineering Power FC...just the FC. Yet in some of the JDM tuner mags, the FC is advertised with 550cc injectors and an air flow meter for a similar price? Any ideas?

Haha...the interior is the first thing to get ditched no room for fluffy seats with a 7 point cage

This EP is my concentrated burst of stupidity...so I want lots of noise

Just moved over to a new server / domain name...finally got night-spirit.co.uk back

cheers

What deg should the car run at standard? is it 10deg like other Toyotas...just making sure. Also what pins do you cross on the diagnostic plug to force the ecu to run at idle?

Today I took my wifes glanza along to 3S Services over near Hook (m3 corridor), the owner James had agreed to help me do a cambelt change, allowing me to use his workshop and his knowledge (which I needed). It's the first time I've done a cambelt and although James is best known for doing all kinds of top notch work on other Toyota's hadn't done a cambelt on the EP either. The price for James to do the work for you, would be £120 labour plus parts...which I think is a bargain from someone who seriously knows there stuff and does such a thorough job here's his website http://www.3sservicecentre.co.uk/ On to the How To, I'd say this isn't a very hard job, but isn't like changing a set of plugs either . It took me/us around 6 hours in total to change the cambelt and alternator belt, including fitting a new cambelt tensioner. You'll need: timing gun (to check the timing after the belt change) an array of 10-12-14 and 17 mm sockets of various depths patience axle stands (2) some blocks of wood to hold the engine up when you drop one side and a jack to raise and lower the engine side. First of all, remove the 4 10mm bolts from top cambelt cover (2 top, 2 bottom...1 of which, nearest the front bumper is a bitch). Remove drivers side wheel. Next up, remove the 3 10mm bolts from the power steering reservoir and the 10mm bolt from the thick pipe running next to the power steering reservoir...this gives easier access to things. Now you need to remove the drivers side engine mount, firstly you need to support the engine on your trolley jack/wooden blocks to stop it falling. There are 2 14mm bolts you can remove from the top and one awkward 14mm nut from the underside. Once these are removed you can remove the final 14mm bolt running through the engine mount and with some movement you should be able to remove it. Now you have access to the belt area better, loosen the 14mm bolt from the fanbelt tensioner (the long belt with track lines) and loosen the 10mm tensioner by unscrewing it a little. You may need to give the loosened pulley a smack from the top side of the engine to force it down slightly to slacken on the belt. Now you can remove the fanbelt. Loosen the alternator belt tensioner next, 12mm bolt and the bolt running through the base of the alternator to allow it to move. This is a 14mm bolt and nut, make sure you secure the nut otherwise it won't loosen. Push the alternator up with your hand from beneath the car and the belt should slip off. Now you can remove the 3 10mm bolts from the bottom of the cambelt cover, 1 at the top and 2 at the bottom. Now you can remove the bottom pulley attached to the crank, first of all make sure you turn the pulley to 0 degrees (as marked with the notch on the pulley and the 0 mark on the cam shield)...so you know the top cam pulley is at 0, makes it easier when refitting the new belt. Removing the pulley requires some effort, you need to slightly open the flywheel casing at the bottom and jam a screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel to hold it still. Now with a 19mm long reach socket you can remove the centre bolt from the pulley...be careful as the pulley lip is fragile. The pulley should slide off with some persuation, James had a rather handy bodywork tool for this job. You know have the cambelt in view, a 12mm bolt holds the cambelt adjuster (bottom) in place and a 10mm bolt from the spring that holds it tense. You can now remove the cambelt!! and the tensioner. Fit the new belt, making sure it slots into all the teeth on the pulleys and making sure that it's tight with the tensioner...refit the bottom cover loosely and the pulley (just slide it on)...making sure it's still at 0!. Now do 2 complete turns of the pulley (cranking the engine) to check that everything is working right and that the top pulley is at 0 (as mentioned before). The tensioner on the cambelt and the fanbelt doesn't have to be ultra tight, just as tight as you can get it with no slack..you'll get the feel of it from the belt that comes off. Once you're happy with this, fit the bottom cambelt cover securely, place the bolt back in the bottom pulley (doesn't need to be tight as it self tightens) and start the car up. If it's done right it should run as normal Now just replace the belts and reverse the above process. Making sure to mark with tippex or a stanley knife blade the groove in the bottom pulley so you can see it with the light gun. Once it's all back together, you can attach your timing gun and once the car is idling normally (when warm) you can check where on the cambelt bottom timing mark, the pulley sits...easier to see than explain. Ours was sat at 0 deg, which we thought wasn't right, we thought it should be 10 deg like most other toyotas...so to adjust the timing, just loosen the 2 12mm bolts from the dizzy cap and rotate it slightly to advance/retard the timing and repeat the process until 10 deg is right. That's about it folks Pics to follow tomorrow...just posting it now while it's fresh in my head.

haha case closed...I like it. I'm not denying it's turbo stall, but with a bov you don't usually get that much air bouncing back unless the bov is adjustable and set tight...and I still wanna know what make bov is on that car As for turbo stall wrecking a turbo, I'm not so sure on small turbos with low boost. Fair enough there's more lag but actual turbo damage?

http://www.night-spirit.co.uk/blog/ I've created a blog for the ep project car I'm working on...any comments appreciated

sex wee indeed..it's running 427ps

You guys beat me to it! Yup...it's either a normal style bov that isn't getting all the air out as the boost is upped so some is getting back....or the spring in the bov if it's adjustable like the ssqv or greddy type r is wound all the in meaning it only opens on full boost, so you get more stall. either way...I'm wanting that. lol On that touge video....lmao There's no way on this earth that I'd diss Tsuchiya san even if I was in a rocket car and he was in a tesco's shopping trolley...he owns driving.

There's two sounds on that video, the very high pitched whistle..which can only be a bov??...and the flutter noise. I can't think that the flutter sound is the air chopping over the turbo blades (turbo stall) as there is a BOV fitted to make the high pitched whistle? The air chopping over the turbo blades is when no BOV is fitted usually and the air to the inlet bounces back off the closed throttle plate through the system and back to the turbo, stalling the turbo by the counterflow of air. I want taht sound on my little track weapon!!! Always wanted that and even running a T67-25G with external wastegate and screamer pipe on my MR2 doesn't give me THAT sound.

Just been watching the infini tuned GT on YouTube and wondered which brand of BOV was running on the car? This EP I have has the SSQV but I think I'd want that one instead...I'm guessing it's a SARD as they're reputed to be the loudest? Also the chatter/flutter...doesn't sound like my MR2 which is caused by the wastegate...do you think it's the wastegate? (can't be turbo stall as the BOV is there).

Incase you wanted to know the HRF car spec is roughly as follows: HKS GT2835R turbo V300 intercooler V300 Power FC with afm boost at 1.8 bar Blitz SBC HKS cams 256 in and out 1.2mm HKS headgasket 1,5ltr with stroker kit V300 head bolts and studs HKS valve springs, retainers, followers SR20 custom inlet manifold ported head 560cc injectors That's all I can decifer.

Yup...Had a check on the plate tonight..it's 6L something (I forgot )

hehe..to be fair I think the R34 driver is pretty crap but still, hat goes off to the EP. Yup, Blitz FMIC, TD05 turbo, Power FC with air flow meter and 570cc injectors, 258 or 280 duration cams? they do a bloody good job on that head

That's odd..it's all there Anyone with an EP has to see it, that video alone made me decide to keep the 82 I bought to strip down and sell on...and I'm going to build a track day terrorist with a bit of luck. I'm setting up a blog of the build/progress, when it's up and running I'll let you guys know as I'll be doing all of the work myself..even the engine rebuild (he says with confidence)

You can all thank me later I'll add a few more when I get chance!!

Yup HRF..that's the chaps...I have it here in Hyper-Rev, top speed of 297.3 or something kph. 400+ ps

The dark green ep82 colour for an import, just need to check the code is right before I order some paint!

It is awesome As it's a dvd what's the best tool for ripping it to web video? That video alone made me want to keep the EP lol. The tuners (forget the name) are the ones with the infamous gold EP running over 400hp that lapped Tsukuba in 1:01 (if my memory serves me right).

I wish I'd taken a photo of her sat in the garage... I've not washed the car yet as I want to take some comedy photos this weekend for a before and after. The front wing is wrecked, the roof has suffered from the bubbled paint problem and she's a bit tatty but for a track car she's perfect...battle scars After I saw the Option video last night I got whilst in Thailand, it had a section on the EP82 vs R34 GTR on the street and track...basically a stock ep gets bullied by the 34 on the street, so the EP owner goes to a tuning shop and hands over 5k for a full rebuild with turbo etc..meets the r34 again and hands his ass back to him on a plate..then does the same thing on a track. Sadly when they meet on the drag strip (and the r34 owner has bought a new tuned r34 just to beat the ep) the ep gets the drop on him from the line but then shits the gearbox or something onto the track