NightSpirit

There are 2 types of blitz fmic from my experience (had both..sold one) It's a bit of a bitch job but worth it as the pipework is all well away from the engine so cooler, if you heatwrap the pipes in the engine bay that is. I thought about the filter getting wet in the front bumper...that's very true but it's a risk I'd take I think?

mods I'd say... Blitz/Apex-i filter Blitz decat and nur spec exhaust AVC-R or similar to up the boost and future proof you for further boost mods. Then I'd go front mount cooler, bigger injectors, fuel pump (from a supra) and power FC. Then I'd fit lightweight flywheel and if it's for track use an lsd at the same time (as a trd clutch) Finishing with some mild hks cams and maybe a turbo Then when it blows, rebuild the engine. lol

oh crap...I don't want to fit it behind headlight as that's naff! putting it at bumper area is best for cool air I was just thinking if I remove the stock pipe and attach the original air filter pipe (the bendy one) onto the turbo....that should do the trick?

Decided to do this as the stock location is a) crap, no longer of use to me as I've put the catchcan there lol. So it has to go straight from the turbo to the front bumper area. As this must have been done many many times before, does anyone know where to buy the kit needed to do it? tight fit from the turbo to the front bumper to allow the blitz filter to sit nicely It's going to make a big difference to inlet temps once it's done and all the piping is heatwrapped. You can see what I'm on about here ---> www.night-spirit.co.uk/blog

;)

what? leave the battery in the engine bay? I've moved it for fun but also to give me more room in the front... Got it sorted now anyway, earth from gearbox mount to chassis in engine bay, then + run to the boot of the car, then earth from - terminal to the chassis in the boot ;)

Ok so is it needed on the gearbox then? it's not a problem if it is, just means I run an earth down the passenger side to the engine bay...

Well I've gone from a 450hp MR2 to an ep82 again...the 2 is still sitting on the drive as I type...I think the EP is a cracking little car and bags of fun. It's a budget track racer to me. Once I get bored of the EP (which I hope won't be too soon) I'll upgrade to a group n evo 5 or escort cossie...but if funds were limitless for a trackday tool, ultima gtr all the way. Good luck with the conversion to 4wd. it'd be easier to get a box and bits from a supra and go rwd dorikin stylee ;)

Putting the battery in the boot next to give me more room in the engine bay for future mods...got the battery leads etc all good, if I tin up the positive connection from the original loom to my new lead in the boot that'll be good (could go direct to the starter but there are other things feeding off the loom) my question is about the earth. The original earth on this car has 2 leads, one that attaches to an engine mount, which then loops to an attachment on the bodywork, this then attaches to the negative terminal. Do I NEED to earth the engine, or can I just run the neg terminal from the b

Well folks, it's on...and the bumper needed no modding, just the drivers side plastic arch needed cutting (and the engine bay) The kit I got was EP82 only, not like the other kits I've had in (and sold...doh!) You can see the pics of it here on the blog ;)

You have got to be fucking joking me...lol using a copy of Hyper Rev and looking at the pics I've worked it out So you have to cut through the underside of the arch area to feed the pipes through...nice. Angle grinder to the ready ;)

Ok it's driving me mad...anyone got a how to or pictures of theres being fitted so I can identify the pipework? I've sussed that pipe 1 with arrow pointing from turbo goes to the skinny pipe 2, but pipe 2 is an awkward fit near the headlight and doesn't seem to allow any pipe to fit the core drivers side? The IC is fitted bang in the centre of the bumper bolted to 2 of the centre bar 10mm bolts (that's right I think) The problem is that the bloody stickers for pipes 3-5 have vanished so I have no idea which way round the pipes go and no combination seems to work/fit. Any help?? I'm doing th

I'll find a stud kit OK so next question...I currently have a laggy T67-25G on my MR2 and I don't want that again...so what turbo should I aim for, bearing inmind the power goal and wanting it for track/response.

You're probably already sorted but I had the same problem with my MR2. I used it at weekends...sometimes only once or twice a month so it sat for long periods. Took it in for an MOT and it failed on the emmissions, the unburnt fuel emmisions were sky high. So I took it for a spin for 10 mins, cranked the boost up to 1.65bar and let the car have a good run. Drove back to the garage and the unburnt fuel emmissions were well within limits...problem was the burnt fuel emmissions were rising alarmingly (my 2 was rather modified) so the tester just stopped the car before it rose too high and pass

I'm not planning on running anything silly power wise...so I reckon that 450cc should do then The rough engine spec when the original goes pop will be something like: 5E-FE Forged pistons balanced bottom end ARP stud kit HKS 1mm HG HKS 256 cams HKS valve springs etc etc Ported polished head SR20DET inlet manifold and something like an RX6 turbo or TD06 spec...don't want it too big as I'm building for pure response and torque.

I now have the power fc, so the impedence of the injectors isn't an issue...I've got a source for Supra Turbo 450cc injectors that I may use? Just wondering what size people use for the above hp figure...According to the HyperRev bible, most run 550cc, but some run 450cc and get over 300ps.

I didn't really do this a how to as my heater matrix is knackered and as it weighs a fair bit it has been ditched to save weight Anyway... Remove the glovebox first, pop the rear glovebox holders out (stop glovebox falling out)...then remove the 2 x head screws from the hinges. Remove the glovebox hinge bar behind the glovebox, 2 x head screws again...this needs to come out to let the heater matrix come out. Next up, remove the 2 x head screws from the wiring loom bolted to the top right of the heatermatrix (up near the metal support bar). This gives access to the 10mm nut on the bulhead

I have a spare Power FC at home, intended for sale but I'm hoping to keep it and use it on my EP82 Starlet Turbo project The thing that's given me this idea is that like the rev1-2 MR2's Apex-i never made a Power FC for the car. AP Engineering basically produced a loom convertor and a remap? of the original from a rev 3. You can buy this kit for the Starlet..but at around 700 quid it's a tad steep. I noticed that a few EP's in Japan run SW20 FC's with a loom convertor...sooo, if I can get the loom convertor seperately, is there any reason why I can't use the MR2 FC?. I may be over simplifyi

I'm gonna bust out my soldering skills I think... If you see a mushroom cloud rise from Surrey, you know it didn't work when I fire the car up

problem is the harness from the fc is because the fc wasn't made for the ep...but it still needs to plug into the original loom plugs at one end...and that's what's knackered. the connector for the boost cut/pressure.

My cage for the project ep is a safety 21 item, 7 point...you don't weld it in, it bolts in...awesome piece of kit. I reckon I could get a decent cage for the ep for around 450 quid? That'd be shipped to your door

Scutch mate, Do you still run the crank case breather back into the inlet (shit design) or does it go through a catch tank? That could account for some of the oil. Take off the piping to the IC and check how much oil is on the turbo side of the IC. It doesn't look like a lot to me and does the turbo smoke idling? or on boost or lift off? It could be the above. Worst case I'd say is the seals in the turbo, but if they get bad your car will just chuff out smoke for fun. I'd save up for a nice aftermarket blower and I may be wrong here...but the crank breather goes into the stock recirc as

Removed the fcd from the ep at the weekend and whichever numpty had wired it in decided to do it in such a way that when it was removed, the wire on the loom to the ECU (larger plug) had no length left to reconnect it to the original. I'm presumming that wire is the one that sends boost voltage to the ecu to perform boost cut. So in theory....do I actually need it if I'm planning on boost control and a power fc? Anyway...the only thing I could do was to cut the wires to the plug so I can hopefully replace the knackered wire/pin, extend all the wires and then solder them all back up...not

One of me here, taken on saturday... Check out my bed hair, I look like a vagrant woohoo.

Check back at the blog..I had fun this weekend. Can anyone tell me what's missing from the car with me sat in it? I can't figure it out