The_Notorious_C_A_T

Right, I have bought a glo badge from ebay, they are also a user on the UKSC, here is the advert: TOYOTA STARLET MK1 REAR LIGHTING BOARD Here we have for sale, RARE Rear lighting board removed from my EP82 GT Badge illuminates in green Condition is used, but good Cash collection or payment by paypal / cheque Goods will be sent upon receipt of cleared funds I have high lighted the bits that I would like peoples opinions on. As I received the item yesterday and the corners are cracked. The picture on the auction was rubbish as well although you can see it once you have the item in hand and are actually looking for them in the picture. Pretty much in your opinions, do you think that was fairly described? As I difinately wouldn't describe anything as good and not mention if there was any damage to the item like those missing parts, on both sides? Your thoughts on this please?

Some good looking girls in the thread like. Have to say I'm surprised the prettiest in my opinion is actually from the same area as me!

heroes! :surrender:

I keep a track of everything I have bought for my car, including all receipts aswell, but wouldn't paste it on here, a general ball park figure does for me lol

would if I wasn't in the oppersite side of the country!

not much more than standard at the mo as most the of the decent parts aren't on yet lol.

With refunds even if you was charged you would get it back.

Dane's TD04 does look quality like, although it's just the mani, down pipe nad blower iirc. Would be good if he did a kit.

I did a guide on how to do it yourself: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....showtopic=18850 Alot cheaper that way

Yeah it's pretty quick like, only ever done one real quick shift to show how quick you can change gear to a mate like as I'm not one for raping my cars tbh, I ironically don't drive quickly at all. Usually build my cars to a very nice spec just to do it, learn about it and make it as reliable as possible. Tbh I don't care much for the whole JDM imagine. Don't want to sound like I'm being arsey at all, just never cared much for it if you get me. I hawked em as soon as I got my pro races on. And they wouldn't fit over my 4 pots and I knew my pro races would as I had wilwoods 4 pots on my 106 gti and pro races as well. Was quite gutted I couldn't just keep my 106 wheels and use em haha

Aye a wee bit more to go like, should be project complete soon enough, well apart from minor things. Well I bought the hdi as I thought I'll try a fmic, then I bought the TD04 kit which has one in it so no point in keeping hte one I had. Only reason I have the tmic back on is that I haven't got round to fitting my td04 kit with it's fmic. Thought you'd like it bud

Nay to worry about that bud, used to it pretty much already. But appreciate the advice. Cheers Cheers Yeah I ended up clocking it when I didn't need to so it's clocked to the right position for my fmic now haha.

about 15-16k including purchase of the car. In 6 months roughly.

Ah you're one of the powers that be's on here! lol Also passed it's mot a few days ago first time

Today I made a little head way into getting some of the junk that I've bought onto the car, even though it was raining!: Off with the old: Mid process: Finally fitted: Just took it out for a spin, feels really weird although I'm sure I'll get used to it. Although things didn't go smoothly, mainly this: Oooops! So I had to throw on my new leads as well for that, so put on the new dizzy and rotor arm while at it: note thats before they are pushed in properly and yes my engine bay is filthy As stated this is ripped from another forum so is compressed a fair bit, and not very well laid out or organised! haha Any comments good or constructive welcome!

Post brought some more parts of the turbo kit!: Few more parts arrived when I got home: New leads, dizzy stuff, rear bearings, bearing caps (or whatever they're called), exhaust gasket, rear brake pads and sump plug. New rad and injectors. Need a few more gaskets and bolts and I should be good to start throwing on shit to the car. Hopefully pick them up tomorrow from town. Hopefully so I can get stuff on this week.

More stuff that has arrived: Turbo in bits to rotate: Although I don't have a set of clip things to manage to rotate the housing, so it's back together with it pointing towards the front of the car if it was in lol Also half the kit is missing, where it's gone I am unsure as I was given 2 tracking numbers and I collected 2 packages. So investigating whats went on there like! lol Also received new rear disks as mine are a bit past it. Didn't take any pics of those though, not really interesting. The offending compressor housing locating pin in location: The offending compressor housing locating pin removed: The offending compressor housing locating pin itself!: The Exhaust housing buffed off: All finished rotating: Just need to "engineer" the actuator to fit now due to the rotation then at least it's ready to throw on.

Few pics of the forged engine from tm developments: Mileage before fitting: Fitted: Engine damper: TRD mounts:

Just reading over the thread and it does look like none of the parts are fitted lol. Some pics of them fitted: Team Dynamics & Wilwoods: Lots of blue hosing: Samco Hosing: Recaro's: Interior stuff: Note - that pedal was there when I got it, just haven't removed it yet!! BC Coilovers (adjustable top mount part): Cusco cylinder stopper: Air filter relocation: I am tempted to fit the shifter today but I am going down to england with the car on Wednesday and would prefer to have it standard shifting just incase lol

Few of the parts that I have bought for it: BC Coilovers: Air filter relocation kit: Team dynamic Pro Race 1.2's: Head unit and trays fitted: 4 pot setup: Turbo: Recaro seats: Brake cylinder stopper: HDI Intercooler: Sequential shifter: Braided lines: Arc top mount intercooler: Zisco equal length stainless manifold: Zisco stainless decat:

Right, finally got home yesterday, so was finally able to go and pic up the car I had sorted a deal with before I went offshore. So finally I truely am part of the starbo world! After deciding randomly I felt like a change of car, browsed the usual places, ebay, piston heads, local car seller things etc etc and found a decent sounding GT semi close to where I live. Went into looking at teh car quite unprepared which could mean I got raped, but for the price I don't think it's bad at all. Although I could easily be proved wrong! After a bit of negotiation, managed to get it for £1850 with 6 months tax & mot. Few pics: Noticed a few wee problems with it as no car is perfect at that price!: front left damper radged - Got coilovers carpet has been cut - wtf really! rear wiper doesn't work - not sure, can hear something moving like lol Also have a few questions regarding this as the seller didn't have much answers: Exhaust, what kind is it? Pics: Also the alloys, are they worth anything? Aaron said they're worth a bit if cleaned up, would like some more opinions as they will be sold most likely: piss pics but it's cold out there! Also have had parts waiting for me for when I got home before I even got the car lol Will psot pics of em soon. Constructive opinions, advice and any information about the car is welcome! This is all taken from tgtt so is compressed a fair bit lol

Looking for 2 rear caliper bleed nipples for my 94 quad head lamp gt. Checked out the part numbers and these are the 2 options: 47547-10050 47547-10060 unsure of the difference bar the price for these items. Also the rubber to cover the bleed nipples would be great as well! Cheers Cat

Right, set out to do the timing belt on my car as per my garage post, here's a little guide how to do the belt, and the water pump. Note this may not be the perfect way at all (very likely tbh) but it worked for me. But constructive opinions are always welcomed as it's really to help folk who are thinking of attempting to do it themselve. Car is standard for the purpose of this guide really. Also since I was doing a few things at once, it may not all be relevent. And I was busy actually getting annoyed doing the work so pictures might not be to hot lol Tools I used: 10mm socket 12mm socket 12mm deep reach socket 14mm socket 19mm socket Pulley holder Hammer (decent heavy hammer, not a shitty joiner hammer I had!!) Punch 10mm spanner 12mm spanner 14mm spanner Hydraulic jack Firstly, I did the usual, jack up the car and take off the splash gaurds. Thats quite obvious so I never took any pics Right, here we have the engine funilly enough: Once the car was jacked up on axle stands and the wheels removed (only really need one but I was swapping out the passenger drive shaft and changing box oil so took them both off) I drained the coolent. Along the bottom of the radiator there is a bleed valve, and on the bottom under the bleed valve is where it comes out. No pics of that unfortunately. Once coolent was bled, I set about removing the solenoid for the hi-lo boost button. Bolt that holds the actual solenoid on the engine mount is 12mm. Then remove the 3 vac pipes as well and the metal parts of them. They are also held on by a 12mm bolt. Then I set about removing the power steering belt and aux belt. The power steering tension is a 12mm bolt which is located near the oil filter: There is also 2 more 12mm bolts holding the powersteering pulley tight. One acessable from underneath: the other from the top: (To the left of the dump valve) Removing the alternator belt is a bit awkward as well due to beiong located at the back. The tensioner bolt is another 12mm bolt down behind the inlet mani: And you also need to slacken off the 14mm bolts on the bottom of the alternator which attach it to the block: That should be both belts off now to help give you a little more access. Next I removed the upper timing belt cover. This is held on by 4 10mm bolts. Some are a total bitch to get to. Unfortunately I never took pictures of this. What you should do now, is give the engine a turnover by hand so that the timing marks on the crank pulley match with the markings on the lower timing belt cover: The top should look like this, with the 4e hole in the cam sprocket lined up with the little dot in the head, unfortunately it's not great to see in the picture as I forgot to and when looking, the washer bottle got in the way!: Once you have got it at top dead centre, you can remove the crank pulley. First you remove the bolt (19mm), to do this I used a locking tool that has 2 bolts that hold the pulley, in the pic you can see the 2 holes even spaced opersite sides on the pulley: To remove the pulley I hit it with a hammer, it never came off so I tried a pulley puller but the legs just chipped at the outside, so I kept hitting it and damaged it lol So I got a bigger hammer and a punch and it came off in seconds. (note this is not a good way to do it, a pulley puller would be better, not one like I used though) and I got a replacement pullet from Mark (cheers bud). Once the pulley is removed you need to remove the lower timing belt cover. Again these are 10mm bolts that hold it on and there are 4 of them. Again quite awkward to get at. Once that is off, you see the guts of it. What I did was remove the tensioner off it's spring and removed the timing belt and the tensioner that is spring loaded and the idler pulley. This was to give me as much space as possible to get at the water pump. Unfortunately I never took pics of that part To get the water pump out, located here: I removed all 4 10mm bolts that I could see, then found out one was behind the engine mount, stupid design! So for changing it, you should remove the engine mount and bracket first. These are the points it's mounted at: They are all 14mm ones except the one that is close to the dip stick holding the alternator tension adjustment bit and the one underneath the engine mount, that's a nut is a 12mm one, you will need a deep reach socket for that, which I never had to start with! Also make sure you remove the hidden one as I never knew it was there until it wouldn't drop off it's mount! The one at the top of the 3 located in the recess: Also make sure to have a jack under the engine, use a jack with a bit of wood if your jack doesn't have a rubber mat bit. Off the mount here: Once that is off you can access the 5th bolt of the water pump, how it looks like with the pump out and mount removed: Throw in the new pump, remember to use the new gasket and clean up the old one off the surface so it's a nice tight fit and thats out of the way at least Now back to the timing belt, what the area looks like with no tensioner or pulley just so you know: when refitting, what I did was fit from the crank bit, counter clockwise. So this was - Crank - oil pump - round idler pulley - cam sprocket - spring tensioned pulley back to crank since it's a belt! If fitting new spring loaded tensioner and pulley, they are 12mm bolts that hold them in. When fitting, I didn't fit like that to start with so everytime I let the spring tension it, it was moving the timing out, so that doubled the time it took to do this, as I thought I had it right and the car wouldn't start and had it all built up again! So when you have the belt on, but not tensioned, make sure all the slack is on the spring loaded tensioner side or it will move the cam sprocket or crank. The way I fiited the spring loaded tensioner was the spring first, then attach it to the bit it sits on, then tighten the bolt that holds it. Once belt is on and the tensioner bolts and idler pulley have been tightened again, double check timing marks on the block and crank match up and the head and the cam pulley (the 4e hole in the cam sprocket and the dot on the head again). Only have a picture of the crank one though, it's a little indent on the crank lines up with like a triangle on the block: not sure how clear the pics are, damn camera flash comes on automatically. Once the belt is tight under the spring loaded tension and the timing marks match up, give it 2 turns of the crank to make sure it's all good. This is to make sure there isn't slack that will put it out once it starts (I never did this first time so learn from someone elses mistakes!) To do this I mounted the crank pulley to turn it by hand. If thats fine and after 2 turns of the crank pulley (that is one full cycle of the engine) then it's a case of throw it all back together in reverse of how you took it off. If not pull off belt and check timing is fine and retension again and try the 2 turns of the crank again. The hardest part of it all was getting the engine back on the mounts as I couldn't remove the bolt that holds the mount into the wing. But how I did it was get 2 mates round, one to operate jack and lift engine, one to push the engine back, and one to bend the mount into lining up with the engine due to the dowels that line up and the bolt that faces downwards. Think thats it but I'm writing this in hind sight and I have literally just finished so not that sharp just now! Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing it themselves. Like I said this is how I did it, might not be perfect but it worked ADDITIONAL NOTES: ** I don't mind people cutting and pasting this information - in fact I take it as flattery but I will make two small requests. 1. Copy the complete post and do not make inaccurate amendments. 2. Post a proper reference to your source of information (ie. THIS website: www.toyotagtturbo.com)

I just got the same thing with a white line pan hard rod. I assume it goes into where the bush is, think it's on the side with the adjustable side as if you look at it, one looks like it's missing from one side and has a metal internal, as one side doesn't have any metal in (non adjustable side iirc).