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Shifter Comparison Gavin

That's just brilliant! Gavin

Funny but true! An anagram of "osama bin laden" is "Lob Da Man In Sea". lol Gavin

Bought a Corolla manifold, for a good price. It was in good condition, as described. It was sent out on Monday and a got it today, next day! Well packaged too. Would recommend! Thank you! Gavin

From Toyota expensive, probably. Used who knows? Knowing there the same as Glanza ones should make them easy to find tho. Gavin

Ive had a look and I think the part numbers are RH: 81210-13040 and LH: 81220-13040 and according to my source they are the same as the Glanza v and s ones. Edit: Instead the Glanza can also use RH: 81220-10070 and LH: 81210-10140, they should fit the remix bumper too. Gavin

It's the remix bumper alright but what grille is that? I don't normally like the remix bumper but that grille makes it. Gavin

Bless you all, your comments are helping me to get my ass into gear to get this totally finished. Cheers. Gavin

Oh yeah I forgot to say that, it did come with it! I didn't see the point in a photo of that. lol Gavin

I didn't have time to test it again but here are the photos I said i'd post. Gavin

No it's not been fitted to be honest. I did test it, it did what it should. Honestly I think it's genuine. Came with Bosch sensor, bezel, faces, looms, the lot. All look high quality. If I remember, I'll test it again and take some detailed photos tomorrow and post them here. Gavin

This is the guy I got mine off about 7 months ago. Fast delivery and it looks quality so i'd say not fake. My ebay feedback is on 20-Jul-2010. Very impressed here too. Gavin

Cheers everyone. I'll add a spec list later or tomorrow. Info on the short shifter can be found here. Click Post #6 Gavin

Cheers Sparky! Thinking about it she aint changed that much apart from replacing the drivers side sill and quarter panel. Oh, I changed the Corolla manifold back to the Gi one (basically an FTE one) I didn't like the Corolla one. I also made a custom short shifter from a standard shifter and fitted that. It's what's comming in time for the summer (might be the end of summer. lol) that gets me excited. lol The short shifter What's waiting to be fitted... Modded Carina E 50mm throttle body New Fuel system components 4 of 6 gauges. There will be in total when done Oil temp, Oil pressure, Water temp, Fuel pressure, ARF and EGT A box full of Toyota parts crystal clear headlights Things I'm working on... Pattern (used to make mould) for custom fibreglass intake tube Pattern and former (used to make mould) for custom fibreglass air filter heat shield. Things I'm working on but don't have photos for... Custom cold air feed with fibreglass fitttings and aluminium tube. I have half the components for a dual cooler oil system. There will be an oil-to-air cooler and an oil-to-water cooler. The oil-air cooler is to cool the oil if needed. The oil-water cooler is for rapid oil warm up and to condition the oil should the oil-air cooler cool too much. (there is a thermostat as well) The oil-air cooler will also help take the load off the water cooling system. The system wll go: engine -> remote filter -> thermostat -> oil-air cooler -> thermostat -> oil-water cooler -> engine I also have a half size Civic rad and mounting kit from the group buy waiting to go on. At some point i'll sort an ECU, an exhaust and exhaust manifold as well. I'm also debating adding a water swirl pot and an oil accumulator. I can hear you all saying "That's a bit overkill". lol Well ya never can be to careful when you plan to run Nitrous Oxide. lol Gavin

For those that asked shes still going strong. A lot has changed and alot will be changing soon. Gavin

I like this one lol Would never make one that can do that tho. Gavin

I don't know what pump you mean so just to confirm, I said Water Pump NOT Power Steering Pump. If you have water pump and alternator on seperate belts thats strange. Gavin

We all fail sometimes!!! Gavin

Not a problem, I thought it might help someone. Gavin

The water pump and alternator are on the same belt. Gavin

Modding A 50mm Carina E Throttle Body To Fit A 4E-FE. There are a couple of 50mm throttle bodies that will fit or can be made to fit to the 4E-FE. Including 4A-FE and 7A-FE throttle bodies and I guess FTE throttle bodies. I choose this one over the others not only because it has about the same sensor layout (like the other 50mm ones above) but also because its made by a german company called Pierburg for Toyota and as such is of visibly beter quality, has an 8mm diameter butterfly shaft (All Toyota throttle bodies I have personally seen have had 10mm diameter shafts), and has oilite (self-lubricating) bronze butterfly shaft bushes (All Toyota throttle bodies I have personally seen have had steel bushes). So should allow a little more air to flow and have a smoother throttle action. This throttle body has been soda blasted to clean it.(It came up nice I think) I recommend the Carina E throttle body to be fitted to a 4E-FTE inlet manifold because the opening bore in the plenum of the corolla manifold is only 45mm so it would be pointless fitting a 50mm throttle body to it plus you need an extra manifold port if you want to retain the power steering idle up valve. A spacer that acts as an adaptor is needed to block an opening between the maiting faces of the throttle body and manifold because the Carina E throttle body is a different shape to the FTE manifold. The sensors are different. They can be modded mechanicaly or electricaly, I choose a mechanical solution instead of an electrical one because I thinks it's more reliable. This is by no means a quick modification, I do things the right way trying to retain standard operation of all valves, I am no redneck! Whats below only has some of the photos attached because i've only done half of the modification. I am posting it now because I have no time to finish it at the moment but it should still help. Step 1 Remove the idle air control valve coil from both the Carina E throttle body and your old one. Step 2 Fit the idle air control valve coil from your old throttle body to the Carina E one. Dont forget to clean the mating faces and apply new RTV silicone sealer. Step 3 Remove the plate that is at the opposite end to the idle air control valve coil from both the Carina E throttle body and your old one. The plate swivels on its screws when loose and I believe this is to control idle so remember what position the plate was sitting in relation to the screws on your old throttle body so you can put it back the same. Step 4 Remove the plastic stopper that is under the plate from step 3 from both the Carina E throttle body and your old one. I believe this stopper controls total valve movement. If you compare the bottom of the stoppers where it interfaces with the arm left in the throttle body you will see that the Carina E one has a shorter slot/gap. Step 5 Fit the plastic stopper from your old throttle body into the Carina E one. It might be a bit of a pain to get the stopper to seat right to the bottom and in the right place. Step 6 Fit the plate from either throttle body in the same position as your old one to the Carina E one. Dont forget to clean the mating faces and apply new RTV silicone sealer. Step 7 Remove the throttle position sensor from both the Carina E throttle body and your old one. You will notice the Carina E one is bigger. Step 8 Get a throttle position sensor adaptor machined up consisting of a housing and a shaft adaptor (gonna cost about 50 notes unless you have access to a milling machine and lathe) Drawings below, I hold no responsibility for the accuracy of them. Step 9 Using loctite, thread the throttle position sensor shaft adaptor onto the Carina E butterfly shaft finger tight and lock it in place with the set screw in the end of the shaft adaptor again using loctite. Step 10 Remove the bufferfly shaft from your old throttle body and cut 22mm from the end with the large flat on it. Step 11 Making sure the butterfly is fully closed with spring pressure and place the Carina E throttle body flat on its back onto a sheet of glass and insert the the butterfly shaft cut off from step 10 into the outer end of the throttle position sensor shaft adaptor so that the flat is parallel to the galss and tighten the 3 set screws finger tight using loctite. Step 12 Stand a 300mm ruler using its edge onto the flat on the end of the butterfly shaft with the 150mm mark in the centre and adjust the position of the shaft untill the measurement between the very edge of the ruler and the glass is exactly the same both ends and then tighten the 3 set screws. (Mine was 22.75mm yours may differ) Step 13 Place the Carina E throttle body flat on its bottom onto a sheet of glass and check step 12 by placing an engineers square up against the flat on the butterfly shaft. Step 14 Fit the throttle position sensor housing adaptor over the butterfly shaft and shaft adaptor. Step 15 Fit your old throttle position sensor to the Carina E one. Now 90 degrees from where it was sitting on your old throttle body. If you really wanted you could miss out steps 1 to 6 and instead just swop the whole idle air control valve from your old throttle body to the Carina E one but you will lose a connection for the power steering idle up valve and the one that remains will need blocking up. You can also leave the Carina E idle air control valve as is but your engine might idle high. I will not go into detail about how to fit a throttle body because im sure you can find that info in a lot of other places but I will tell you how to deal with the odd number of pipes on the Carina E throttle body. The two coolant hoses (throttle body heater) still connent to the connections on the bottom of the Carina E throttle body. The 2 power steering idle up valve hoses used to connect to the side of your old throttle body but now one connects to the middle connection on the bottom of the Carina E throttle body and one connects to the inlet manifold plenum. I think that's about it any questions just ask. Gavin

From what I remember there about £160 new from Toyota so scrap yard/breaker/used is probably your best bet although you obviously can't be certen of it's condition or how long it might last. Gavin

Yeah some of them. The larger pulley (the one at the back that drives the alt pulley) is separated/isolated from it's mounting flange by a rubber bush, It's a Harmonic Balancer Pulley. My guess is that the rubber is starting to come away from the mounting flange or the pulley. The smaller pulley is mounted directly to the other ones flange by 4 bolts on most of them. Some don't have Harmonic Balancers and the whole pulley is solid. I have seen this pulley wobble so much and for so long that it cut/ground it's self clean through the bottom cam belt cover. Don't let it get that bad, in theory the pulley could detach itself at any time. It will need replacing and they can be a little hard to get off. Gavin

Did you remove the drain plug/bolt thats in the block as well as the one in the bottom of the rad? If you don't remove the one out of the block a lot of old coolant tends to stay traped in the block. I believe capacity is just under 5L something like 4.5L I think. Gavin

I do not know for sure but I believe the idle on N/A's is controlled by the plate circled in red in the photo below. It seems to interact with the idle control valves shaft via a spring and a kind of insert. The insert seems to control the rotational stop points of the shaft and therefore the maximum valve opening. If you loosen the screws the plate will rotate a small amount, it is sealed with silicone so you would need to take it to bits, clean and apply new silicone, put in back togeather loosely and while the silicone is wet adjust the plate with engine running and tighten up the screws when you have it adjusted correctly. This adjustment may not be anything to do with idle adjustment, it may be to do with valve function, I'm not sure! I believe the screw Asad_EP5DR talks of is the butterfly stop screw, used to stop the butterfly wedging it's self closed against the wall of the throttle body bore. It should be adjusted so that the butterfly is totally closed and dose not get jammed. If this screw is used to adjust idle it alters the angle of the butterfly shaft and therefore possibly the position (or signal) of the throttle position sensor. Like Asad_EP5DR said above idle should not need adjusting on our cars. If your idle suddenly changes look for the cause before you adjust. gavin