EarL

Nice lookin' now it's clean dude. How much of a bother was it to remove the door rubbing strips?

Too true.

Really nice mate. The ST205 has, what is basically an MR2 Revision 3 motor. Not the strongest block, but will see you well into the low 12's without major surgery, and should be capable of running 18psi through the CT20b all the way to the redline. If I could suggest anything to improve performance, it would be, cooling, cooling and more cooling! Get yourself a real decent FMIC. The one you have doesn't look to big (but it's a good start). The rest of it looks well sweet mate. Bet you're well chuffed. EarL.

Cheers Sparky. It will be when it's finished. Back to the matter in hand though. As far as I can see, the only "sensor" for the coolant is the temp probe going into the thermostat housing, or am I way off the mark here? The temp guage works fine. by the way. Fitted a set of PI -40 lowering springs to the EP this weekend. What a transformation! It goes round corners like its on rails now! Can't wait to get some decent rubber and alloys on it now. Cheers guys, EarL.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll be checking it out this morning. Haven't had too much time to do anything over the last week or so. The Red Beast is my other car. It's a 1990 MkII MR2 GT Turbo that at the moment is undergoing some rather serious modifications. If you want to know more about it, check out this link... http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php...718&start=0

Hot air blower/hair dryer maybe?

If it's not blowing oil smoke out under normal driving conditions, it's because it's burning it too quickly to notice it. But when it idles, it's given time to lose oil into the combustion chambers, hence why when it's idled for a few minutes it puffs blue smoke out when you blip the pedal. I'd do a compression test on all cylinders to start with, but as has already been stated, it's more than likely your valve stem oil seals on their last legs.

Wheel bearings normally vibrate or resonate at this sort of speed. Give them a check.

Did a couple of tests on my 1997 N/A EP91 after I bought it, and managed to eek 502 miles out of it in a week, from one £30 fill up (normal Tesco unleaded)! It meant driving with the windows up at all times, no radio, no heater/blower, no nothing, and driving Miss Daisy. Someone beat that!

I doubt very much that the stock 1.3 has the same cam as the GT Turbo mate. The 4EFE is a high compression motor, where as the 4EFTE is a low compression due to it being a turbo, so the cam profile should be different. Running high lift cams on a turbo is normally a no no, as the turbo provides the "high" compression when it's on full boost. That's not to say it can't be done, just not a practicle thing to do. If your motor is destined for the street, I would look at a medium lift cam that's not too wild on its timing. Lots of people go for wild cams and loose loads of power low down.

Can someone tell me what sensor fault code 22 (CTS - Open circuit/short circuit) refers to? I know it's a temperature sensor, but what one? Coolant? ;)

Hmmm... seems to work for me. Anyone else having difficulty seeing it? How about now?

Anyone know what model these Enkei's are? Just bought a set for my Starlet and I need to know a little more about them. Cheers in advance, EarL.