Keri-WMS

Fair enough and thanks again - well I've got it down in the notes for that kit...in fact I'll edit the title of this thread methinks! Can do - is that for your car? (what does FTW mean by the way? I always assumed it was a ByTheWay typo in the past but I've been seeing it loads!) What size Final Speeds do you have again?

This code works on other forums where they have a "youtube" button just like our "image" and "link" buttons etc - I can't see anything like that here. (shifts to html and pastes code) and....nope. This is the code they use: any way this can work? 'tis handy... <object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D2bwkmz5hI&amp;NR=1">'>;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D2bwkmz5hI&amp;NR=1"></param><embed src=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D2bwkmz5hI&amp;NR=1"type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>

Cheers, should do - I didn't expect the EP82 to have two versions! 'spose that's good in the short term though....as that means this first 55mm WMS kit should fit the 92-96 EP82?! Yep! Also just sorted my "common testing alloy"!!! £15 + £15 (hmmm.....) postage, gotta love eBay!

RWD transit I hope!!!! No it's not big, no it's not clever, and no it wasn't me! PS - That disc was probably very COLD....and very CAST IRON = very brittle. EDIT - There's rust on the cracked part of the vent on that disc - it's been cracked for ages!!!! Make sure you replace the other one as well dude...

Yeah, it's a very cool - but very little demand product! The "sensible" plan with the SW20 is 300mm rear (SW20 rear calipers on WMS carriers) and 300mm front (WMS 4 pot rightness).....I can find "a few" homes for that setup methinks!

That's very nice - esp in black! Have you ever seen any of the V6 ones out of interest? I was messing about with the SW20 rear suspension the other day on a hunch (as the front 300mm WMS kit will be ready pretty soon) and found I was right - from my existing parts I can do a 4 pot 300mm rear kit! Really cool but only for race / drift use as you'll need a hyd handbrake....made me grin though!

Yep, no problem! (costs a bit more, drop me a PM if you'd like a shipping quote)

Very cool project - I like! Are those Golf BBS's, are they 15" and are you keeping them? I've got a nice little photo of a BMW E30 15" BBS here that might be of use!

To be honest if I did an Evo kit it would be more upmarket than the goodspeed stuff, so as price is your main issue and we don't have quick and easy access to a test hub etc I'm going to pass! Best not to spread too thin when expanding, let's get the full range of EP91/82 kits sorted out first.

Hi Rick, you're right about the bore, I just need to get a pile of test EP91/82 parts to test on. No specific plans for the Evo, what size wheels are you running? I'm happy to have a look if you've got a standard hub/disc/caliper etc I can borrow to work on?

Can (will) do! ;)

Custom CNC machined carriers....... ;)

Cheers, much appreciated! ;) Annoyingly......they are very different to the other Toyota ones I've seen, and my evil plan won't work. I'm sure I can sort an upgrade for the rear (MOT passing big disc, more powerful handbrake) in the future but it'll be more or less from scratch. ;)

So are the SRs EP91/55mm bore, or EP82/54mm bore? If I go 300mm I'll find the ideal disc, don't you worry about that! I try to have two versions of each kit, a solid disc and a rotor/bell of the same basic dimensions, so there are two price options. Have you managed to get a look at those brake line tabs yet dude? ;) So that's 300mm behind 15" Final Speeds, or behind onther type of 15" that's fitted at the moment?

Cheers guys - I'll wait with baited breath! ;)

Cool! If you could take some shots of the caliper / carrier from several angles that would be great! With luck I might be able to do a rear upgrade.....fingers crossed.

Has anyone got photos of the rear EP91 (etc) hubs, calipers and especially carriers? (not interested in drums) Also in this photo of a Starlet disc setup onto Tercel conversion, are the black plates standard Starlet, or has the guy made them?

Correct, some 15's but very-very few. Not any that I've ever found, put it that way! Possibly real motorsport ones like the Compomotive and (proper) Team Dynamics ones for instance?

Nope, "the Rick" I met didn't go for the brakes in the end (sort of vanished from memory), if he had he could have given my my carrier back! ;) Also if you look the wheels are the same, looks like they got a respray in black...? That's outside my Dad's place, in the carpark....

lol, when I get them made you guys will be the first to know!!! 'course I can do 300mm rotors and bells as well as 280mm but I get the impression the 16's that they would really need are too big for most people?

To "do what I did" (and I probably went too far) you'll need: - An air die grinder, with burrs and a compressor. - A valve seat grinder with stones at the various angles. - About two evenings per port!!!!! (ouch) - Bigger valves, I back-cut mine as well (not shown) Beyond that, you also need (I didn't have): - A couple of spare heads to trash while testing ideas on... - .....the flowbench. - Some real idea of what you're doing (buy books by A . Graham Bell)! :-) Basic things to know are: - "polishing" the ports is a bad idea, it lets fuel condense on the walls and messes with the "boundary layer" (the air right next to the metal, which forms loads of tiny vortexes that "lubricate" the main mass of the air as it moves). - DON'T change the shape of anything (I should really have left the guide bosses in place). - The main gains to be had are by improving the valve seats at low-lift (the more angles of "cuts" there are in the valve rim and it's seat on the head the closer to a smooth curve you have, imprtant at say 1.0mm of lift where the air is trying to get through a tiny slot)! The faster (more like "earlier") the bulk of the charge in the port can start to move the better the resulting final velocities are, creating a better "ram" effect if the inlet runners are tuned properly etc. - The remaining gains normally to be had are "port matching" the inlet side, and removing or smoothing any casting / machining lumps or steps in the inlet/exhaust ports. - DON'T port match the exhaust side....there needs to be a "step" from a small port in the head to a larger manifold branch. This step acts as a anti-reversion device to reduce exhaust gasses going back into the head, and also sets up the pressure waves that you are trying to match when you fit a "tuned" exhaust. - The same pressure waves exist in the inlet runners, but they orininate off the back of the inlet valves. Just to reiterate - aim to get a nice "valve job" and "tidy" the ports/gaskets etc to remove anything that shouldn't be there and you may improve things a bit without causing problems. One other thing, there are differances in n/a engine porting and forced induction porting, like f/i needs big wide cantact areas for the exhaust valves due to the far higher temperatures...they transfer the heat to the head via this small area. The cooler your valves, the less detonation they may cause, and the higher your boost can go! Tuned exhausts are less of a worry on f/i cars as well, as there is not room for a big curving 4-into-2-into-1 manifold as you need to fit the turbo in there...and as close to the engine as possible in terms of distance though the manifold to keep the gasses as hot as possible (heat = pressure). It's all in the details!

Cheers! ;)

Really needs to rev to get the most of the 20v, and the 7A block isn't that great. Plus I wanted it to look standard and be cheeeeeap. Plus I always wanted to have a go at gasflowing!

This is off-topic really being a non-Starlet engine...but I bet it's pretty close? Basically I blew up my AW11's 4AGE and thought "I'll just clean up a spare head and do a simple 1.8ish coversion using the 7AFE block". As normal I got carried away, I thought "may as well go big valve to help the extra 200cc's worth of charge" etc and it went from there! The old 4AGE head, I think I can see what was wrong! The standard bigport 4AGE inlets: Modifying the inlets: Going big-valve, note the change in the gap between standard valves and new valves! Nice new oversize wasted-stem valves: Finished chambers, de-shrouded the valves, opened up ports, 4-angle seats (inlet): Finished inlets, valve guide and boss removed! (maybe a bit extreme...!): Old vs recon/modded! Exhaust manifold de-dingleberried then flowed 1mm oversize radially to improve the anti-reversion/standing wave formation step (head flowed to match gasket, manifold is bigger: Covers cleaned, painted in high-temp matt black then draw-filed by hand: Not shown are inlet manifold and TVIS port-matched, exhaust valve gaps to be run way oversize to increase valve speed off seat (increasing wave/pulse formation and pressure at the expense of a tiny bit of lift and duration), cams to be re-timed by drilling/slotting the pulleys (over and above mods needed to get in line with the 7AFE bottom end), and other bits and bobs. POWER --------------------------------------------------- Well, using very basic crazymaffs: 128bhp plus cone filter and straight through exhaust = maybe 135bhp? Assuming 135bhp, 135 / 1.587 (1587cc) = 85.07bhp/L. 85.07 x 1.762 (1762cc) = 149.9bhp. In terms of added poke, there could be a 5-15% gain in power from the ruthless flowing, call that 5% = 149.9 x 1.05 = 157.4bhp Then the valve area has gone up by 10.1% and 16.5%, looking like this: 29.5mm dia Toyota small port in = 683mm area (94% of the bigport valve) 30.5mm dia Toyota Bigport in = 730mm area Bigport 25.5mm dia Toyota ex = 510mm area Bigport 32.0mm dia Atlantic in = 804mm area (110.1% of the bigport valve) 27.5mm dia Atlantic ex = 594mm area (116.5% of the bigport valve) In actual fact the EFFECTIVE diamter of the new valves is even more, as I'm running much smaller seat contact areas, making it more like a 20% increase. 157.4bhp x 1.2 = 188.8bhp In reality I'm expecting about 160bhp +/- 10% once set up properly, at 1,000 less RPM, with much more torque due to the longer stroke. The theory from the point of view of air entering the port. 1 - Upper port (is this the part you refer to as the "runner"?). Standard, just had casting marks removed to maintain velocity and improve the boundary layer. 2 - Valve guide boss. These are there to support/cool the guide, and also in the GE head they appear to induce rotation in the flow over each valve as they are very lopsided (plus the ports are angled in pairs when looked at from above, not parallel!). The outside curve of the port is the highest velocity area as the air tries to keep going in a straight line, so I wanted to know what effect removing them would have (this probably means more revs or more lift needed). 3 - Valve guides, these were in the way of removing the guide bosses! Of course I know a cylinder is a pretty good aerodynamic shape so they are not a real problem if retained... 4 - The throat, this is the real venturi as it's right behind the valves and is the smallest area (especially now!). All I did to these was remove the "step" caused by mis-alignment between the port and ID of the steel valve seat insert. Doing this opened the seats up to about where I wanted to go due to the bigger valves anyway. I'm keeping the standard cams, and I WAS going to stay at the same capacity to do a fair test of the effects - but decided not to bother and to try the 7A one straight away as I've not got heaps of spare time for multiple engine configurations/comparisons. NOTE: This is me in "hobby mode", I don't pretend to know my way round engines to any real level!!!

Yup yup - no problem, if they are common on the starlet in the UK I'm bound to run into some I expect....