Keri-WMS

Did anyone notice the vanishing thread? EDIT - Just me, I couldn't see it for some reason - doh!

Yup, I can do something very similar - there are other spot calipers out there I'd rather use as we don't currently have our own. In the short term the 22v MR2 rear caliper in a big-disc setup is ok at the back as long as everything's in tip-top condition, and the (phase 2-on?) cars have them as standard so most people would opt for that. More on the SW20 stuff soon...

Me too - funny lot the BTCC lads!

No offense intended Jay, I just put up some general info as you'd said "while chasing my dreams to become DK"... So you weren't trying to drift at the time you mean? I miss RWD baaaaadly at the moment, in past I've had a Mk1 Escort, 2x Sierras (yuk), Capri (yellow!), MR2 etc. In the short term we may have a solution to the lack of icy carpark antics - my little brother just bought a 3.0TD 4x4 HiLux!

Cool! Can't do red though, although if you got them powder coated we can try to get you some WMS heat resistant transfers. As far as bigger discs in 16"s goes, we'll be doing 300x20.5mm rotors on bells in the future - if people need even more cooling (unlikely) we could go for the 300x32mm rotors while the customer retains their calipers and brackets etc (we'll need to get 32mm-spec bells made for those as well though due to the offset shift - depends on demand). And you're right, bigger discs = increased mechanical advantage = more braking torque for the same pedal effort. If you like I c

Erm, if the back steps out in a front wheel drive car don't touch the brakes!!! You floor it (ignore the wheelspin) while turning the steering in the direction the back has just gone to try to get the front to "catch up" with the back and pull it straight. Over to Mr Plato to demonstrate (higher speed, same principle), keep your foot in!!!: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPCGnkApnDU...92A217BD0097B4C Happy Birthday! If you want to "drift" (in an ice/snow covered empty private closed carpark etc etc) in a FWD car start at 5mph, pull the handbrake up and leave it there, then steer slightly

-1 outdoors which is fine, +4 indoors which isn't!

True but you mean "heavy" when you say solid I assume? As opposed to non-vented? Spot on, higher thermal mass means lower temperaturse for the same heat energy input, although a rotor on a bell can be lighter if it's "radially floating". As in to say, it can heat up and expand freely, without any strain from the bell! Correct, grooves are sometimes used to stop pads glazing, but very few modern pads suffer from that. Drilled holes were to cope with pads "gassing" (ie the resins in the pads used to boil and the pad would "hovercraft style" be held off the surface of the disc)....but again

I hate to say it but that alloy is repairable. There's a aluminium welding / sheet metal place round here that does jobs that bad, not too cheap though. As long as the "spokes" part isn't totally bent"?

Easy to do - I hate code! (runs back to the other thread to see if the SR guy has a heart attack... )

Hacked? What eeeeeeez this "hacked" you speak of? You mean a "bespoke customer-optimised software" solution surely? No hacking here. Nope, stuff in [ blah blah blah ] brackets is forum markup, stuff in < blah blah blah > brackets is html. (in VERY loose terms). I was a web designer for many (wasted) years.

I've been tugged about 30-odd times and my younger brother about twice that (mainly from when he had a Red BMW and a red Mohican hairdo - that seems to annoy them). Funny thing was most of the time they just wanted to look at the cars (mainly when I had a white Mk1 Escort on 40's and my brother had a Red Mk2 xpack RS2000 with a rallyish spec Pinto on 45's). Worst night was when they were doing a "crackdown on street racing" - we got pulled over FIVE times in the RS in one night! Never got a single point or fine though (although me egging him on DID get him a spot fine - which I then paid ba

I think my post was before that but I've lost track. Main thing is they are on order (took a load of emails before Earls got what I was on about as well)!

Ta! (we'll see when I get it built and on a dyno ..... )

Cheers! F.A.O. TGTT visitors!!!! Just to clarify: Edited, updated prices are here: WMS Brakes For 54mm Hub Starlets (>92 Turbo (EP82) etc) & WMS Brakes For 55mm Hub Starlets ('92-'96 Turbo (EP82), '96> Turbo (EP92) etc) Regarding the discs and track use, we don't see a potential problem (based on our previous experience with other kits) but there will be thicker discs, rotors on bells, and bigger kits available as time goes on IF people need them. Also not one single WMS Toyota kit has ever had problems with warped discs that we've heard of and similarly regarding dust seal

...and Sin City (and others)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brittany_Murphy - looks like it.... I still suspect the rich and famous have found something new, espensive, fun and lethal...? (just based on the recent stats, not pointing the finger at any of them in particular) Sad non the less.

I do my best! Cop a load of this gents, any help? 275mm EP91 kit profile, accurate to about 1.0mm: 275mm WMS kit PDF Proposed smallest possible 262.5mm EP91 kit profile, accurate to about 1.0mm: 262.5mm WMS kit PDF It's possible to go "deeper" on the smaller kit to get away from the spokes (by 5mm) but this is the only quick/easy one...

There must be someone you'd "like to impale"!!!! Not that using an 8ft icicle would would go down well when trying to impress someone of the fairer sex!

I can do one-off kits but the brackets won't be all CNC machined lovelyness, and will cost a bit more. If we can get five people who want the smaller kit I'm happy to run a CNC batch and throw the rest into stock. All of today I've been working on doing you guys "profiles" of the kits (in each size) in PDF format....although as I'm in the parts store which is 6 deg-C INDOORS my fingers are getting slower by the minute! Once they are finished you can print them out, check you have a 1:1 scale print, stick it to card and cut it out and shove it up your wheels to see what happens. How about tha

I'm just being sensible - not got a garden to do it over then? (no people still applies )

The trick is to "add" all the smaller ones to the big one by re-directing them with string at an angle! Needless to say, DON'T DO THIS WHERE PEOPLE MIGHT WALK UNDER IT! At some point it WILL fall off in spectacular style and even very small ones can punch a neat hole in the top of someone's head. Also mine pole-vaulted to the side as bit as well, you might lose some ground floor windows.

lol - I've got 323 x 32 mm rotors.....but that's just daft and really needs 17"s! Well let me know. I'll probably do kits in these sizes (front anyway): - #smaller version to try to fit 14"s# - 275x22 (plus 280x20.5mm rotor version) - 300x? (plus 300x20.5mm rotor version)

lol - fair enough! 300mm in 15's = pushing it but might be possible depending on the wheel! Cheers! It's possible....but 280mm in 14"s (like 300mm in 15"s) is pushing it and only a few wheel types will work. If enough people want a smaller (better for 14"s) kit I can go a bit smaller as an option....

When I was a kid I tied string to the (leaking) gutter right outside my window to grow a giant icicle! It worked about reached about two stories long and 6" - 9" thick (more like 10" x 15" at the top)......and pulled the gutter off the roof! Doh!