Keri-WMS

I was just sent an in-car video of a guy lending his E30 BMW (WMS brakes of course plus a 250bhp SR20DET conversion) to a mate for a few laps of Rockingham - I like his "Cor f--k me the brakes are awsome!" reaction at the first corner! The vid - gets very silly in the later laps (the guy is MESSING ABOUT (he does a fair bit of drifting I'm told), and feeling the limits of the car etc as he's never driven it before, NOT trying to be smooth): http://vimeo.com/9987198 This car:

There are a few tricks I know (being pretty old!!): - LEARN what you can drink before feeling shit the next day, pace yourself and NEVER go over it - if you get to your limit early in the night just switch to Redbull and go hyper! My hangover point is about 8 shots or 3 pints, or a mix of them. - Go out on an EMPTY stomach...get pissed instantly, it's cheaper as you can manage on half the drinks, you have less alcohol to process the next day, and the first thing (kebab) you eat sobers you up! - If you are well gone pick a mate who lives a couple of miles home andboth/all walk back there (pi

Ah see, that's where stainless caliper pistons win!

Ta! Basically you just follow the Toyota / Haynes proceedures for your car even if you have WMS calipers, but instead of bleeding one nipple at each caliper (on the std calipers) you do the outer/top one then the inner/top one. Normally you would bleed the calipers in order of how far from the m-cyl they are, furthest to nearest, but check the manual! Isn't there a Starlet-specific bleeding brakes guide on the site somewhere I thought?

Just been testing the 15" SR Speedline on the 275x22 (4P107) kit: ---------------- ...and ths morning I've been testing the 15" SR Speedline on the 277x25 (4P109) kit! Ok maybe I'm getting carried away with the photography? Still loads of room with the thicker disc though, see below:

Sweeeeet!

Don't forget www.twobrutal.co.uk - very into engine swaps including V6 and 3SGTE Mk1 Mr2s!

Cool....

Sorry I didn't get staight back to you, I lost my home internet last night! If you could let me know: 1 - Which kit you want (you'll have to print the PDFs out to test if your wheels fit I'm afraid). 2 - Which pads you want. 3 - If you want lines. ...I can work you out a quote! We don't normally do group buys, the WMS kit is already extremely good value and there is far more demand than stock. We might look at it a later date, but we still deal with each customer directly, no "pot" etc. Again let me know which options/pads you want and I'll total it up for you!

You know it makes sense! The WMS-fit aftermarket pads are cheaper as well so it's actually "sensible"!

Cheers, so do you mean it "should" seperate easily, and the bearings parts are a press fit? To put it another way, if I got a driveshaft and nut would tightening it up sort them out, or will the bearing be too worn period?

What, me?

I just bought an early EP82 front hub (arrived today) and the bearing is soooooo loose, not what I need really. My question is: are Starlet hub bearings held tight by the hub-nut being done up on the driveshaft? Most Toyota hubs I buy seem to have the same bearing setup but with no play, but I wonder if the bearing are only tight still as they are stuck in place - and the Starlet ones that are "loose" just need a big bolt putting through them to re-tighten them? Cheers!

I know I can't use google but haarrrrrrsh man!

I remember reading a thread where the guy (VTEC lot in the US?) had fitted his NOS kit but wasn't getting any extra power. They went all through the fueling etc....then the penny dropped that the hole he'd drilled, tapped and installed the injector in was in the CAM COVER!!!! (wish I could find it but googles fails me....)

IIRC on some cars the clutch and brakes share the same fluid reservoir...? (Not to say that's the case with the Starlet of course!)

Natural selection gone wrong...

Have you tried the WMS templates in your 14's? (Beta/proposed kit) smallest possible 262.5mm EP91 kit profile, accurate to about 1.0mm: 262.5mm WMS kit PDF

That's about right! Each cylinder is 1820 liters and produces 7,780bhp. They do a straight-14 as well if that's a bit small. Total displacement comes out to 25,480 liters for the fourteen cylinder version. Some more facts on the 14 cylinder version: Total engine weight: 2300 tons (The crankshaft alone weighs 300 tons..) Length: 89 feet Height: 44 feet Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm

Be good to get that sorted somehow! ;) Are those ones in the photo 14" then?

Sweet! Also I used to have those same Enkeis on my MR2... ;)

Uno Turbo as well - one of the smallest turbos about funnily enough!

How about THIS! 55 cubic meters/sec, ship turbocharger made by IHI! :surrender:

Reds are "for cars over 200bhp"....they are OEM Spec for the MK2 MR2 Turbo for instance. The thing about reds is they don't do that "nothing when cold" thing that greens do, so while they work at their best at higher temps they are als better from cold! To be totally honest I don't fully understand why EBC offer Greens any more other than price. Reds are ideal for loonies, trackdays, powerful cars. Yellows are ideal for loonies IN powerful cars, mad trackdays and full race. That's most likely to be groove design diferences I expect, grooves / drillings "hum", pads SHREEEEK! :surrender: