Keri-WMS

I agree, the Mk1 was bad for my back but now I've got a Mk2 it's even worse! Just changed the downpipe (nightmare!!!) and handbrake cables on mine, and am busy fabricating up a custom silencer (the std one can fk off with all those extra fat-a### kgs..) I grabbed mine as a runabout because it was mint - didn't notice it was the 3SFE lump! Oops... (by "oops" I mean "MOT it, sell it, buy a GT or a Turbo").

I corrected that thread on TGTT as well if you look at page 2 - I would like to see proof that EBC said that, I bet it's a case of wires crossed, or Chinese Whispers, crossed wires, or ulterior motives (someone selling Yellows "explaining" why Reds are no good). Reds are ideal for everything from a 90bhp Nova GTE to a 300+bhp TVR Chimaera race car....it depends on driving style a lot as well. For 90% or people Reds are ideal, if they are REAL track nuts or very heavy on the brakes than Yellows are the next stage....BUT TAKE MORE WARMING UP THAN REDS! (...did I mention that Yellows take mor

That's not right: Greens = Fast road (nasty....) Reds = Very fast road/trackday (less warmup needed then Yellows) Yellows = Full race/trackday/ridiculously fast road (need MORE warming up than Reds) For some reason loads of people have got this mixed up!

It's not really ideal, you'll probably get vibration. The normal solution is to open the bells out to make room and fit a "ring" with w 54mm ID. You might be able to roll a centering "clip" from 0.5mm stainless sheet, bit DIY though. I wonder if the cheapest/neatest option here is to swap the hubs to the 55mm kind? (if it's possible, I don't know the hub bearing specs etc etc) Hope that helps.

1. Fully forged Engine 2. Give the rear axle a slap! lol custom built rear set up 3. cusco 13 point weld in cage ohhhhh baby 4. Sparky's mum 5. Wide arch kit + GT wing 6. pink undercar neons 7. a scoosher water bottle made of real gold 8. GI bonnet 9. *Gets chainsaw out* CHOP CHOP CHOP CHOP CHOPPPP!! there we have it boys.. A STARBO CONVERTABLE !!! 10.^^^ convertable, pickup, with a russian bride chained up in the back 11. Painted in hot pink yo!!1 12. Air intake headlight 13. 4eftte (twin turbo) 14. Jam rear spoiler? 15. Japanese number plate 16. Every optional extra ever made for the EP 17.

What you need is a brake disc geek, and luckily you guys have ME! The 277x25 discs from the WMS kit are one option, but as you say that are the wrong width. However if you are happy to run a 3mm (maybe you can get away with less) spacer between the disc and hub like the twin-pot setups people use have, and have a 55mm bore hub, I can supply: 275x28 discs 295x26 discs (but 15's will be either VERY tight, or won't fit...) Bung me a PM if this'll help! Even if you have 54mm bore hubs I have a way round that...

lol!

Just a quick note to let you guys know we're out of stock! We're taking "reserved" orders for kits from the next batch if people want to bung me a PM, more calipers will be along shortly, unless someone brave (or with a bais-box) wants to try a kit with the 1.62/1.75 size piston calipers!!! I'd also just like to say thanks for the welcome WMS has had here on UKSC - one of the most friendly forums I've ever been on! Keri

Just a quick note to let you guys know we're out of stock! We're taking "reserved" orders for kits from the next batch if people want to bung me a PM, more calipers will be along shortly, unless someone brave (or with a bais-box) wants to try a kit with the 1.62/1.75 size piston calipers!!! I'd also just like to say thanks for the welcome WMS has had here on UKSC - one of the most friendly forums I've ever been on! Keri

I bet there are some I've forgotten but in rough order: 1 - Jago "Geep" kitcar 2 - Mk1 Escort 4 door (fragged) 3 - Mk1 Escort 4 door (1600 xflow on Dellorto 40's) 4 - Mk1 Escort 2 door 5 - Mk2 Escort 2 door RS2000 flat-front replica, 2.1 Pinto on 45 DCOE's, 13x8 Allycats (fragged) 6 - 2.0 Capri!!!! Bright Yellow, blue lights underneith, BLUE tinted wondows, red LEDs in mudfaps and bonnet lip, SILVER interior!!! 7 - 2.0 Sierra Ghia! 8 - 1800 Schirrocco (borrowed for a year) 9 - 1800 CVH Sierra 10 - 2.0 16v Honda Accord 11 - Mk1 MR2 1600 16v 12 - Uno Turbo 1.3ie (on 1 bar, 0-60 in 6sec with p

I would say that EBC pads are all good value (cheap!) but that: EBC Greens "road" are nasty EBC Reds "fast road/trackday/200bhp cars" are best for most people as they seem better than Greens when cold, and more predictable and resilient when hot! EBC Yellows "full race/trackday" are a race pad technically, but do get used when a car is "overpowered". Like most EP Turbo's!

Let me know if you need some more 4AGE valve info/dimensions, I've got them to hand and can measure them up for you. I've also got the oversize ("formula Atlantic" ish) valves, where I've been building a big-valve 7AGE!

Might I suggest a (break from the norm) cheap runabout....Volvo 346 / 360 wrongness!

What DID happen to his? Hadn't heard anything?

I've got a Mk1 MR2 but I agree about the sideways "twitch" due to having the engine in the back....not the same beast as my Mk1 Escort was at all! Holding a slide is much much harder.... Interestingly Re the Mk2, Toyota designed it to "handle like a Supercar"....but after the Rev 1 had been about for a while the number of crashes made them realise that Joe Public can't DRIVE! So they de-tuned the handeling for the Rev 2 onwards, for more understeer and less oversteer. I always thought a Rev 1 with a supercharged lagless Rev 3 etc engine would be the most fun!

This is one of my all-time favourites - Twin (turbocharged) VR6's in a golf. Hubba hubba hubba....

Good man!

When you have to drive the car up a long "wedge" of stacked+nailed planks before the (low garage style) jack will go under the sills! When you get to a hotel and have to unload three people, all the tools and all the baggage to clear the 6ft long "smooth and low" style speedbump right outside the lobby doors! When you get a puncture and the chassis rails sit on the road, leaving the tyre looking "semi-ok" even though it has no air at all! <<<< ....all three have happened with our cars....

gtr-r33, did you ever get to the bottom of this then? If the clutch is ok and the brakes still fade we can sort that out!

I'm betting you have sticking sliders on the calipers as well.......check them out when you fit the new discs / pads!

I went a bit nuts looking for what was going on before I found out how to set it back to linear!

Does the pedal pulse, and does it get worse the harder you brake - like especially downhill?

Soooo......now you're got the Pinto based running gear.....time for an all Alu Millinton Diamond based n/a YB on Jenveys? You know it makes sense, just needs spannering, no cutting!

Epic range of cars there guys!!! To deviate for a just a sec, in my project corner I've also got a Mk1 Escort (old schooooool), a Civic (EG) and an AW11 (er, "RWD")! How many of you are there?