StuDoc 72

You need to shorten the acutator to increase boost. Do this continually untill you have whatever you are after so say 0.5 or 0.6 bar on full boost in 3rd gear. Then ditch the MBC they aren't worth a fuck and buy an EBC then go from there.

Dan urs is the turbo. Liam id say urs is the same just not as bad. If it was the valve stem seals id expect it to release a puff on start up. Its difficult to be 100% without physically seeing it because its not following the exact symptoms of the problems.

dont just dive straight in. A multimeter is cheaper than an alternator and its a great tool to have. Check the voltage between your battery with the engine running if its around 13.5 - 14 volts your alternator is fine. A wire could have shorted in your amp and draw a small amount of power. How quickly does it drain? Does the battery go flat when your driving? Because if it doesnt die when you are driving id be very doubtful about it being the alternator. Its far more likely to be the amp or the battery thats knackered. When you say your alternator has started to act up what do you mean by that?

The ebay FMIC's are good for this. Come with plenty piping so that you can mod it to fit CT9 short route and TD04 its also large enough that it will be suffice for any turbo you could fit. Best off all its cheap as chips they tend to go for arounf £100 brand new on ebay if the listing starts as 0.99p

I'd reckon the big give away on that link would be the title sway bar DIAMETER conversion chart. Where you get confused is the part where that video uses the holes and says that changing the distance is 23-24-25mm. This means moving it closer obviously increases the tension and causes the bar to ACT like it is infact a thicker bar as this is whole point of the adjustability, it allows you to change your tension so the middle hole in a 24mm bar is the standard hole moving it closer increases the tension causing it to act like a 25mm bar. Put your hand under your elbow and get someone to push down on the free hand....your arm will straighten out. Now hold your wrist and get someone to push down on your free hand....its more difficult to do so. Theoretically this is what the adjustment achieves. Stick to your Haynes manual cock boy ;)

They have a branch in Scotland. The comment was also that the 22mm does not represent the thickness of the bar..... which it does.

Or I could phone and ask them like I did?? To avoid looking like a cock

Does it smoke heavily on start up? How is the smoke affected when you come on and off boost?

Bin the sub they are not cool.

Yes the full size would offer better cooling but its not all about cooling. Coolant must be held at the optimum operating temp this is done by the thermostat opening and then the water being allowed to flow to the rad to be cooled to come back and do the same again. So theoretically if you have too large a rad then you would actually cool the water too much and cause the thermostat to open and close allowing the operating temp to drop which is bad. There is a point reached where no matter how expensive well designed thick or wide a rad is it can only so efficient. My point being that half rads do the job as well as a full rad. Aslong as your coolant is not overheating then thats all that matters. Also they are half the size so it makes sense. I think even if the car is used on track rather than go back to a full size rad people tend to just fit a lower temp thermostat.

I can defo think of worse ways to spend a Sunday.

Absolute garbage! Its the thickness of the bars front and rear.

Ah ive heard of this for years just never thought much of it. Is it any good?

Where?

I would definately take consideration to the fact its a forged engine I will concede that but thats completely different circumstances it is the main selling point of the car and a upward of £2k expense. Not only that but with a forged engine you would like proof of the work in the 1st place and for it to be up to scratch. As far as standard engine go normal checks are all that is necessary.

Partially for the reasons Socks gave above there is no need to, other more reasonable checks can be done. You dont own this car so you dont have the right to do it. You reckon if you walked into a car dealership they would let you start to strip down a car to compression check it? If I was selling my car and some text book weekend mechanic turned up with a compression test I'd tell him where to go. It's all fine and well doing the usual checks with your eyes ears and hands. There would be no way someone ive just met would be taking any tools to my car whether it meant a sale or not. Say they go to do a compression test and strip the threads on the spark plug mount? You think they will cough up for you to fix it? By all means they can request you have it done at a workshop which would take responsibility but nah no way theyd be doing it in the street its just not how private sales work.

Best thing to do I'd say is leave it with them. Let them look at it and repair it if its the clutch or release bearing. If they deem that its the input shaft bearing then go elsewhere and let them do the work when they get the box off you will find out the real truth. As for Phil and telling him to drop the attitude. I'd be the same having spent that money. I can't see the car but by the sound of things it doesn't sound to me like its the input shaft bearing so I don't blame him for being skeptical. And Redline Mike replied to me earlier in the thread saying that he did not tell you the warranty on the engine would be void if you removed the box. You wont know until you let them check it so you are hardly being cooperative. What if your car genuinely broke down? You wouldn't be using it as a daily then and continuing to drive it isn't doing it any favours. Give it down to TD see what they say then start complaining if you dont think it is good enough.

Welcome mate. Good chance it is your synchros does it go into 3rd ok when the engine isnt running though? Check your cables and stuff aswell before jumping in. Its also worth having a look to see if it really is the LSD box theres a thread on here that shows you the visual differances so that you can identify them. Anyway enjoy boost, your ST will be nothing but a memory shortly. Fords suck dick lol.

Av no read the whole thread but the green shit u put in your coolant and run the engine. It has copper through it and the copper gets forced through the nackered hg gets melted and seals it. I tryed it on ma vxr before a traded it in but it didnt work cause the head gasket was blown the other direction so was pressurising the coolant rather than using water lol.

An input shaft bearing noise and release bearing noise happen at completely different times. Its easy to diagnose either or.

Charlie when you comin down our bit in tht 4 paw????

Cheers Mike I'd have been blown away if that was infact the case. So if that is not true then what is. Seems like someone is witholding details. I'm not getting anymore involved as it seems that not all the facts are on the table here and It's not my place to slag off a reputable workshop on the basis of something that isn't true.

Not really but if you want a boosted starlet then buy a boosted starlet dont try and boost an N/A lots of people have done so and tbh its more work than its worth. Unless its 4wd ofcourse.

Is the part that the engine warranty becomes void if you change a clutch elsewhere true and why?

Thats what I was after with anxilleries just cudnt be fuked typing them haha.