StuDoc 72

Con rods and anxilliries.

Theres 1 in the Naughty Boy video for la la la. Has anyone seen it?

Will fit on any starlet. Whether it will cope is a completely different matter. N/A engine would go boom before long I'd imagine. 4efte would only last if your ran under 240-250bhp like Grant said. Then again still no garuntees.

Think Dean@RW developments does them mate.

Me aswell. Absolutely shocking things if you ask me wouldnt put it near my car.

Would like to hear this confirmed by TD and more of their side of the story. Not taking side but there are 2 to every story and would have expected Mike to be more forthcoming in defending the name.

Doing a compression test on a car your buying privately? LOL Very good you gny turn up at the sellers house with your toolbox? Haha Ive heard it all now. Just be vigilant mate and if possible post up a link to the ad on here and im sure people will give you some assistance. Even better is to buy a car off the forum where the history is available on here like Matts. Main things are to start it from cold and have a listen to the engine for any knocking and check the rear for smoke. Check the oil looks good and not just black water. Check for signs of accident damage aswell. If I was buying outwith the forum I would be aiming for as standard an example as possible that way it hasnt been modified incorrectly.

Would bang

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/67563-oem-ct9-turbomanifoldcatoil-and-water-lines/

Relocate the air filter?

Cj Performance specials.

1st thing is 1st I would do the sniff test. If your coolant is smelly of petrol then the HG is gone. Next I would try a rad cap. Then I would flush out the heater matrix. To do this you drain the system remove the 2 water pipes that go through the bulkhead and put a hose in 1 of them and blast water through it then do the same with the other till all the gunk comes out. Finally Id replace the thermostat. Id do it in this order because its the least expensive 1st.

Thermostat could be faulty. Also id stick a jet up the heater matrix pipes to make sure its not all choked up.

I agree with morgey Id start by checking the belts then maybe your brakes as the shims can cause a squeek if they are touching the disc. Very much doubt its your turbo as if it was making a squeeking noise it would have died a while ago lol.

Yes if the cap isnt pressurising the system it will all just boil into the exp tank. Do the sniff test though sound like the HG is fukered. The fact its not over heating is strange but could just mean its not creating an airlock.

Even fork out that little bit more and get a ready built kit with a good ct9 decat and aftermarket mani they pop up for £250 i know its more than a replacement turbo but when you factor in new gaskets and stuff plus the fact it then give you room to mod and get more power. I find standard swap out jobs boring but when your improvig your car the job satisfaction is through the roof. Also this ^^ You will not come close to a starlet in any form of VW unless its a new golf R or scirrocco R the rest are just shite.

Sniff test

Pm's to both of you. Bump.

Listening is enough to know the difference between a thrust bearing and a input shaft bearing. Any mechanic would know this. I'm not taking sides just shouldn't be getting carried away without dealing in facts. As a workshop goes you cannot strip it down to diagnose as you are 2 hours in labour removing a gearbox as a general timeframe. Plus the consumables used. It wouldnt be viable especially if you got that far and the customer couldnt afford the work. Listening is the correct diagnosis.

I was just confirming that this could be diagnosed this way as the OP questioned it mate. I cant comment on which part is faulty obviously the release bearing seemed the more logical culprit but as Mike diagnosed it in the flesh I can only take his word for it. I wasnt making any kind of opinion merely confirming the technical questions asked by previous posts.

Bump. BOV and Gear knob reduced. Need it all gone guys c'mon.

You can 100% adjust the clutch at the pedal. Also its quite easy to diagnose a input shaft or release bearing just by listening to it. Infact that is the correct way to diagnose it lol.

Go to the cop shop and ask for it back? Failing that you can do a few things. 1. Hammer a multipoint socket on the locking nut. 2. Drill it out then use an easy out 3. Find 1 similar to your pals and use it to get them off then replace them.

Do you have standard CT9? It may be boost creep and when the wheels spin there is no resistance on the engine the revs rise quicker and in turn it builds boost faster. The quicker it builds boost the more likely it is to creep. If you are still on standard CT9 try having the wastegate ported can be almost certain it wont happen after that.