Turbo Goose

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Item For Sale: TF035 Turbo Item Condition & Description: Anyone interested in TF035 turbo. Ran absolutely perfect on my car for 6 months with no smoke on or off boost. Little bit shaft play but nothing worry about. TD04 power with CT9 lag!! Made 229bhp @ 1.1 bar on a standard engine with full boost at 3.1k rpm Wicked turbo! Price: £100 Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: Postage £7 via courier Payment via paypal +4% fees

Air and water lines fine on throttle body, think it would empty pretty fast into the bores if i had them on the wrong way. I filled the rad and filler bottle up 450 miles ago and its lost about an inch but that could just be because it was all fresh in a fresh engine. Going to top up the coolant to the line then i can judge if its loosing any. My catch can isnt massive. Id say around 1/4 litre of water was in it

Hmmmm, well the mayo doesnt appear to have cleared up over time its not eccessive but after each journey if you let the car sit it leaves a film on the filler cap. I thought i should be seeing oil in the catch can not water! its clear but smells petrolly. would the oil or coolant change colour if the headgasket was the issue?

Is it normal to gain half a catch tank of water over 400 miles? The mayo on the filler cap is a worry.

Hi guys, ive got a fresh forged engine in. Been running it for about 400 miles. Every oil change I do theres always a bit of white mayo on the filler cap, so i thought this may be condensation so havent worried too much about it. Ive checked the catch can today and its half full with clean water? Also each oil change the oil hasnt been milky, bit black but thats all. dont appear to be losing coolant but hard to tell. Bit weird how theres just clean water in the catch can, couple of milky spolges but that it. Any ideas?? Head was skimmed and fresh athena headgasket put on 400 miles ago

Couple of my clearances are out atm, i changed out all my shims but 2 were a tiny bit out of tolerance so ive got a bit of a ticky top end. They were literally just out of tolerance though on the inlet side but suppose it makes all the difference

So they will definitely need to be machined? I have about 25 which range from 5.36 to 5.52mm Wondering if the current total thickness of the buckets (including shims) in the engine atm will match any of these to swap out

Not sure how they relate though. As with starlet you just measure the shims so you will have the shim thickness plus the bucket thickness. With these solid buckets is it the thickness of the whole thing so it will be thicker when measured?

Hi guys, ive got a selection of yaris solid buckets for my engine. Just wondering if anyone knows how the sizes relate to starlet shims Here are tHe 2 lists ive got As you can see the numbers are completely different so how do you know what size yaris bucket to fit? Say i had a starlet bucket with a shim measuring 2.80mm what yaris solid bucket would i use?? Cheers guys

Changed my fan sensor switch and it works perfect

Ye man, any idea what colour dude?

Hi guys, after a tial wastegate spring. Either .5 .6 or .7 for my f38 wastegate Thanks guys

Not going to name and shame as he said he would sort it but wanted me to try every other possible solution but ive checked everything. There is about 4mm play in the selector arm so may rotate the piece between 90 degree like you say. But I do honestly trust the guy so much so I'm still trying to sort it without stripping the box but oh well. Hope I get something back as it cost me over £500 all in eeeek

How can this be when the guy drove it before taking it out and then sold straight to me! Arghhhhhh

Hi guys, I recently bought a gearbox from a trustworthy guy who promised me the gearbox was silky smooth. Had the car out for its first run last week and first gear change from 1st to 2nd CRUNCH! So Ive checked the oil and its topped up to the fill level. All other gears select fine but 1st to 2nd and down from 3rd to second crunches like a beauty. Is there anything else external on the box I can check as this gearbox was sold to me as perfect working order. Is there anyway to check the selectors are in the right position for each gear selected?? Thanks guys, Dan

Stoich?

one night it wantage what condition is the slam panel in dude?

It is stock my man. So your turbo is a tf035 exhaust housing bored out at the flange where it meets the exhaust manifold?? And the compressor wheel is that off a td04?? So basically a TF035 with a larger compressor wheel and a machined exhaust inlet?

Really interested in this. Currently have a tf035 and spool time is fantastic, i see full boost 1.1bar at 3100 rpm I am now looking at getting 280bhp but is the only way to go td04 or some crazy combo. Will need the spindle balancing but not sure where to get that done. And androo, you say you have the 6cm exhaust housing with the small tf exhaust wheel? Do you not have a massive gap between the exhaust housing and the blades?

U mean it turns without tightening? People often overtighten the aluminium aftermarket 1s

Either drivers side driveshaft seal on side of gearbox or crankshaft seal on drivers side which is on the oil pump

Idle from 12.5 to 13

It drives spot oN. cruising at a constant speed shows just over 15 afr at approx 2.5k to 3k rpm. When accelerating its 12 to 13 and when i boost a little (not much) it goes from 13 to 14 ish

About 1 mile on the engine dude and standard injectors until its on the dyno changing to 430cc