corofin12345

may be a leak but could possible be a actuator or wastgate issue too.... then again i dont know your setup look for a leak first off anyway

1st pic - blank it off or use a broken sensor in it etc

2nd pic - not needed but block it off.. small piece of vac hose and a bolt will do

3rd pic - sensor not needed but leave it as is (old temp needle sensor).. on that housing.. the CTS normally has a 2 pin sensor and a separate loom for the temp needle sensor ... uve replaced that sensor with a 3 pin sensor by the looks of things to suit your loom (3rd pin on CTS is temp needle sensor)

could be worth a few pound to the right buyer that..

I have a set here but im missing the end that goes in the gearbox off one and need two outer boots, so trying to find which is cheaper, wether buying cv boots ect or buying a decent set of shafts, all the other parts i may have already but will let you know corofin, but if anyone can also help with a selection of nuts, jubilee clips and odd vacuum pipes ect from engine bay would be great

should have all that here too, have a full car for breaking, also have inner CV cups.... its pretty much stripped to the ground now.. shed full of OEM parts

drill and a wire brush head works well..

if the red light is flashing on the good fob then VVVVVVVV

Unlock car.
Sit in drivers seat, shut door.
Put key in the ignition, turn key to on then off 3 times.
Remove key and press the button on the new keyfob.
Central locking should operate.
Put the key back in the ignition and turn on/off again 3 times.
Once again remove and press the new keyfob button
Central Locking should operate again.

have a set here...

should have a few here mate...

well man, have alot of OEM parts here for sale.. pm me what ya need and ill see if i have them

Item For Sale: blitz access ecu for ep91



Item Condition & Description: good works fine

Price: 500 delivered



Pictures:



Payment & Shipping Details: payment via paypal.. courier or post.. either way will be tracked and insured

the answer to your problem is given in the fist reply on this thread... your engine management light came on indicating a problem... we can all guess till the cows come home but the answer lies in the stored code in the ECU... do the diagnostic test and that will tell you why the engine management light came on.. yep its that simple... not ruling out fuel cut but the symptoms dont add up to be a fuel cut... you mentioned it happens at 80kph.. fuel cut can happen in any gear at any speed and in any rev... this is why i think its something else.......

do a diagnostic test... i suspect code 52, knock sensor.. but who knows till you do the test

had a few here man but the only problem is that it would take at least a week to get to england

jack, if you can get your hands on a 1bar w/g spring.. stick it in and see if your still having issues.. disconnect the EBC.. ull know then if its the EBC or something else... we got the timing sorted.. id say the EBC is at fault or just needs to be set up right

There is grey tape around the wires connecting the map sensor to the loom should I just peel it all off and see what is underneath? As I didn't install the emanage I don't know too much about the wires connecting it up, but I suppose I could try and trace them. How or why would it be earthing?

Thanks guys!!

Brendon

check to see if there any breaks under the grey tape and tape them back up after... on some occasions when lads are selling on cars etc etc they pull out FCD's/ AVCR's etc etc and they tend to leave the strip weres exposed and these stripped wires can sometimes earth off the body of the car or worst, other wires..... have a trace back of those wires from map sensor to ECU anyway to see can you see any problem

uve an open circuit somewhere... only reason why that code would come up.. do a continuity test on the wires from map sensor to ECU.. could be a badly repaired wire from previous owners or one of them could be earthing of something...

Ahh I love the plug n play thought I have a SARD ecu that's all I would love to keep it but it's better getting the emb just hate the thought of having the emb in the glovebox, I like my space in the front out of all the ecu's I would probably go for a mines lol

i wouldnt bother man... not for 1bar anyway.. an emb will only get ya a few more extra bhp over the plug and plays..

That's different, its welded to the chassis therefore it becomes an integral part and chassis flex is transferred to the roll cage.

A strut brace is just a bolted joint and therefore has a moment about the bolt rather than the chassis.

a strut brace does the same thing bud.. they spread the load, they do help with chassis flex.. take a starlet around a circuit with and without braces and tell me you cant feel the difference

strut braces in starlets are just for show??????

thats like saying a roll cage in rally cars are just there to hang flower pots from

as amjad said, i also definitely noticed a difference when i fitted my OEM rear 3 point strut brace..

Like how the revs drop faster it seems to be different experience's with everyone, what did you think of the SARD ecu?

simple test really.. gave it a rev it in neutral.. i couldnt get my head around it so i tried the blitz ecu in a different glanza and it was the same and that glanza was running a jam ecu so i tried that in mine.. the jam ecu didnt come down the revs as fast in both cars.. the blitz did in both cars.. (both cars were run in on both ecu's) also, the blitz ecu seems to be the only plug & play on the market that doesnt need much of a run in/bed in period, if at all.. when i got mine, i plugged it in and boosted straight away, it didnt bog down like the jam ecu and the afr's were spot on.. the jam ecu needs a good 20 miles or more for it to bed in to start boosting properly... the sard felt more aggressive and the afr's were higher then most others so i can only imagine its a ecu for a bigger turbo, "not a hybrid ct9"..

they are pretty much all the same but they do have little differences, the mins ecu in a gt seems to be more aggressive then others and the blitz ecu in a glanza seems to be the best all rounder.. hard to explain really but i tried the jam, blitz, ks rom, toms and sard ecu in my glanza when i had it and the blitz unit seemed to make my engine purr that little bit nicer, lol... revs dropped faster changing gears too with the blitz ecu, didnt believe it myself till i tried the ecu in a different glanza and had the same results... also, i was getting better mpg every day driving with the blitz ecu at 1bar then i was with the stock ecu at .8 of a bar.. all ecu's fueled pretty much the same when the shoe was put in tho, afr's were very similar

bump

dont bother.... can cause alot of problems... the only time a meshed turbo works is on a warm day and warm days are few and far in between and besides that, its not the water uve to worry about.. its all the dust the turbo inhales..

do not sell her man.. you know yourself some mammys boy with alot of money will take her, drive the shite out of it and break it for parts... would be a shame..

bumpski, great bit of kit this.. plug it in and off you go..

bump ONO folks