JDMfreak

colour is fairly dark purple if that's ok

I think I may just bite the bullet and buy one then so rather than going out and trying to make one yeah the castor in the middle would be a better option allows adjustment without removing it

you can go this way about it or if your luck you might find a pocket in the breakers that will fit or fit some gauges in there

im using a gt starlet panhard rod there the round ones iirc chopping it near the axle side fittng threaded bar down inside the tube so its actually heavier and stronger few bolts bit of welding job done

i'll have a look on ebay see what's on there im making a adjustable rear panhard rod so was wondering if the anti-roll bar had been done

anyway said I'd throw a few pictures up of how the car looks now haven't done much as car is my daily only bits ive done painted the wheels gloss black tinted the rear lights as I hate the white reverse light painted the inside of my indicators black new front number plate new blue/white headlight bulbs and white led sidelights hope to get a few more leds two for the number plate and some tint for the side windows picked up a nice addzest optional extra headunit today

is that the big orange connector is that what that for

could be a 5e engine from a cynos or paseo iirc the cynos 5e has an acis manifold there are two variations of the 5e engine 5efe and 5efhe as for pic one could be 4efte or 4efe inlet there similar the throttle body iirc correctly ,,,the sensors are different the bore is 5mm diferrent on the 4efe (45)mm 4efte is (50)mm 2nd pic is the ICV or idle control valve 3rd pic is the fuel rail same as 4efte but will have different coloured injectors injectors between 4efe and 4efte pale green/grey are usually turbo injectors 4th pic map sensor 5th pic has something to do with aircon along with 6th pic and 7th the ecu is located behind the glovebox,,,, the 5efe will run on the 4efe ecu as they share the same plugs but wont run on a 4efte ecu or even fit as they is a an extra socket on the 4efte ecu

I've been looking on the net at them and there fairly expensive,,,, I was wondering has anyone ever made one or used a front anti roll bar of another car on the rear and made up the rear drop links for them

I had a look at the link you posted my wiring seems to be the same as the solida the colours in my my dash wiring are the same as the solida for instance in your picture of module A you have a yellow wire between the black and red/blue wire for a seat belt light my car hasn't got this feature as I don't have the yellow wire in the loom except for the solid yellow in module b which in my case is oil pressure light from what I have found out the 98 N/A starlet have different looms towards the 96 N/A spec ,,,,, same as a 96 spec glanza V towards a 98 spec glanza V they have slightly different looms the fog light switch is on the stalk in a 98 glanza where as a 96 has a button near the mirror switch

what moneys on them and shipping or courier cost any pics

what moneys on it its a bit of a trek from Ireland to the uk as im only going to be stripping it for its panels

cheers though

im after bits in that colour tbh to save getting anything sprayed im only getting the roof and rear quarter panels painted the rest I can bolt on can get them bits here but thought the green colour might be more popular in the uk

as above anyone breaking one after a few bits need all these in this colour 2 ep91 standard headlights petrol cap 2 doors 2 wings boot lid bonnet ep91 standard front and rear bumpers have the same parts here but glanza items can give these in return if anyone can do all these parts in one go

you can replace the button

same thing happened to me with my glanza swap the rad fan switch for a decent one the wax or what ever is in it has broke down so basically its not working right

got the stndard clocks workin again i think the oil pressure light seems to go off when you start the car along with the engine managment light dunno if this is right but will do for now and the airbag light goes off after a few seconds of the key being on

quick tip put a piece of carboard under the battery if you do get a new one and you dont drive it much as leaving it on a cold surface will drain the battery quickly

i tried to day to get my original clocks to work again but as i had swapped the wires around to try make the glanza s clocks to work i have completley forgotten where the wires where originally and have been swapping them from place to place to try to get the clocks back working,, i have written down all the colours or the wires thats in each module here what i have so far,, if i knew what the colour of each wire represented i could try to get my old clocks to work again and start again this time with a better understanding of what im at [white plug] nearest indicator stalk red with white tracer line solid yellow wire green with white tracer wire solid brown yellow with green tracer line yellow with black tracer line solid green wire white with green tracer line [Grey plug] middle of cluster red with yellow tracer line black with yellow tracer line green with black tracer line brown with white tracer line solid purple wire green with yellow tracer and [brown plug] yellow with black tracer line black with white tracer line yellow with red tracer line solid black yellow with green tracer line black with yellow tracer line blue with white tracer line

best of getting the loom from the front to the back as thats how im going to do the revrse of what you doing remove it from the bottom of passenger rear light to the two lights in the garnish

glanza s clocks similar to the glanza but with out the boost lights

was going to post this on the toyotaownersclub of ireland just so people dont get scammed by him