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jackkelly

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Everything posted by jackkelly

  1. Buddy of mine has a Glanza V. Over the last week I fixed a few things on it, one of them was a broken temperature gauge, and the other was fix the high idle. The car was idling at 1,300-1,500 rpm and I dropped it down to where it should be, 800-1000 rpm. Everything was ok but when the car was started up from cold it would misfire for around 10-15 seconds then be perfect, only happened after I fixed the idle, it got progressively worse over the passed few days. Today the plugs were changed and it is still getting progressively worse, it only happens off throttle or when the car is idling, as soon as the accelerator is pressed there's nothing, a while ago it just started to misfire up the revs in 2nd and 3rd gear when driven hard. After fixing the temperature gauge, around three days later we were parked outside the shop and the temperature gauge rose up and nearly went to the red, we knocked the car off and waited til it went cold. I first taught it was an air lock so I bled the cooling system and that sorted that out. Today the car over heated again. The car has not boiled over to the red and has not boiled through the expansion tank. Just went up to just under the red on the gauge. The car only over heats in traffic and as soon as the car is driven it will go down to normal operating temperature again. Any idea what this could be? There's an aluminium half-rad on the car with 1.1 bar rad cap. The fan is working as it should. There's 4 magnecore plug leads and one standard king lead but they're very old. Car is boosting .5 on a CT9 with a fmic. NGK heat range 7 iridium tipped spark plugs. No coolant in the car only tap water but it's only in around 3 weeks with the new half-rad.
  2. Wind the actuator out longer using the size 10 nut on it. Fast before you do damage!
  3. Have a re-test for my NCT (Irish version of MOT) tomorrow and it's the last day I can do it or I'll have to do it all over again. I'm after going through four times and it's failed on emissions everytime. It's only after failing on the high idle CO% It passed everything else. The limit is .30% and mine is reading .49% every test I go to. Any solutions. Could I run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and lean it out just for the test. If so what pressure do I set it to and do I do it with the vacuum hose off or on? If I set it with the vacuum hose off do I block where the vacuum hose goes on to on the intake manifold. Thanks.
  4. Interested in turbo.. PM me best price delivered please. What parts you looking for a swap bud?
  5. Would you do manifold separately?
  6. Bump
  7. Do please man, let me know, thanks.
  8. Wanted one of these, have the actual actuator but need the bracket to mount it to the turbo.
  9. PM'd and bump
  10. Would you sell bracket seperately?
  11. welcome along
  12. Have you a duck spoiler? If so best price posted to IRL. If not, bootlid without spoiler or plate surround posted to IRL. Thanks bud.
  13. No idea what to offer and don't want to insult you, PM me
  14. Would you do mani and turbo for a better price?
  15. Welcome along!
  16. PM in your inbox for the last 4 days could you please reply.
  17. Are they H4 and proper yellow ya?
  18. Bump, might have one sorted though.
  19. I'm not 100% sure but I think it's around 2.3 2.4 bar?
  20. I know a lad who can get them for €65 delivered to Ireland, UK wouldn't be much more, not sure about the rules about selling on here because of my posts and that but just letting you know. skunkworkz is their name google them. I got my set off them and they're sweet. ID-Workz also does them he's on here, a few of my buddies have them got from him and they're sweet.
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