G14 NZA

Yes there is an idle control valve on the drivers end of the inlet manifold makes a loud ticking noise. Mark

Their all the same UK/JDM, ABS\Non ABS. Mark

All GT's and early Glanza's use the same "D" bracket and the same long bolt at the front so they should be interchangable no matter what diameter the front bushes are. Mark

Your alternator should be making 14.5v otherwise theres not enough voltage to run the car and charge the battery. I may be wrong but when the alternator is completley dead you'll get 3 or 4 warning lights on the dash. Mark

Toyota bolts don't have adjustment which is why they do three different ones. Long story made short, i bought super street coilies for my MR2 without adjustable topmounts so i bought two sets of the same type of bolts you saw on ebay. They looked very thin and weak so went to Toyota to get brand new topmounts and asked them about the camber bolts i'd bought and they said to use the ones they do. They look like a proper bolt and were £3ish each. HTH Mark

To do just the drivers side you would need only one of those part numbers, which one would depend on how much adjustment you need. iirc toyota's bolts give 0.75, 1.5 and 2.25 degrees. Also when I fitted my D2 coilovers my Glanza it had quite bad positive camber, worse than yours i'd say and using the topmounts the garage only adjusted the camber 1.5 degrees. Doubling up would be two bolts on on strut. Mark

90105 - 15004 90105 - 15005 90105 - 15006 Each part number above gives a set amount of adjustment but you can double up if you need to. I would certainly trust Toyota ones over the very thin looking ones your looking at on ebay. Fitting them is a garage job to get them set to the right angle. Mark

I used camber bolts on all four corners of my MR2 turbo with no problems. You could also go to Toyota and get a pair for about 6 -7 quid. Mark

I've finally work out how to do links This should help: Diagnostic How To

I would start by seeing what error code you get from doing a "Diagnostic Check" theres a how to in the MOT section of the Technical forum. Mark

Camskill have both, but 3 pins are expensive on their site too. Mark

Top man, thanks for the help

Dan buddy, what i'm mean is the bottom of the purple bracket is currently flush with the bottom of the strut. To heighten the car i need to unthread the bracket so that the bottom of the strut sits up inside it but will that leave too little thread holding the 2 parts together or is that how there designed to work? Mark

Hi guys, I fitted D2 coilovers to the front of my Glanza today and the tyres are mm's from the arch. I fitted them as they were in the box when they came. The black seat that stops the purple hub bracket from coming off the bottom was set flush with the base of the strut. Can it go lower than the base of the strut or is this as high as the car can be set?. Thanks in advance Mark

I think I need glasses sorry!

Try toyota, they got me a front glanza badge easy enough. The part number is 45472-97502. Mark

The 170 BHP rating is for non turbo cars add 80% for a turbo. I've used green on both of my MR2's and the glanza. Mark

Yes connect the Red, Green and Blue to each other. Black = Ground Purple = Tap in to handbrake I'm not sure what TT you have but if it can show revs or speed or possibly 0-60 times that whats the Grey and Brown are for. Remove the plastic trim with the bonnet release on it. If you look up behind the black plastic tube that goes to the drivers side air vent you'll see the ignition connector. Thats where the white connectors you've circled go between. Mark

Bugger! my theory is dead in the water then aint it. We have people with and without an LSD all using 23/30. Anyone using 23/23? Mark

Bildo i don't think it is that complicated to find out which CV joint a person needs but from the posts i've read on UKSC, when anyone asks if they need 23 or 30 spline the advice from other owners is to take your old one off and have a look. There are also quite a few parts sites that ask you to check. I don't think that should be necessary. My theory is one type for ABS cars and one for ABS + LSD. I would just like to know which one is which and I though people who have already bought one posting up their model and spline count would give a conclusive answer. You say your 96 with ABS is 23

Hey peeps, it seems that at the moment if you need a CV joint then it's a case of pull your car apart and count the splines on your existing one. I would like if possible to to get peoples info on what Model and spline count they have needed as I personally am of the belief that Toyota didn't randomly put 23 spline and 30 spline cv joint on starlets. My theory is this: The EPC lists the following: Jan 1992 to June 1999 (GT/GLANZA) with ABS 43030-10010 Dec 1992 to June 1999 (GT/GLANZA) with LSD 43030-10020 I think the only thing that affects your spline count is LSD/Non LSD. If anyone who

One last question on this, would the optional toyota recaro rails work too? Mark

cheers guys

Having begun the process of selling my mods and returning the car to almost standard due to lack of cash, sods law has offered the chance to get my hands on Evo 4 Recaros very cheap. Can they be fitted using Zeps "recaro frames"? Thanks Mark

84720-10050 is 96 to 97 10060 is 98 to 99. The blow up diagram doesn't show a picture of a seatbelt warning but there are 2 part numbers linked to the "pattern select" button. Another example of this is on MR2's. N/A's have a voltage gauge, Turbo's have a boost gauge. 2 different part numbers but both are listed as "Meter, Voltage". I can't say 100% on your button though just info for you to consider.