JayJ

Is it easy to change the input and output shaft front bearings at the same time?

Input shaft rear bearing is harder to get and needs puller to remove 5th gear?

RHDJapan or Nengun, I just did ;)

It needs CT9

Never buy from Ebay. RHDJapan, Nengun, PartBox or check the manufacturer's website for a official dealer.

Tommi Mäkinen testing his team built GT86 WRC.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxxGAkRKPac

They will return to WRC in 2017

Well, my gearbox has decided to stop working properly(syncros), but even with the problems we managed to do a roadtrip(~3000km) up to north, Norway. It was a cool trip and awesome landscapes. Also the rear wheel bearing started to mess around just after we arrived to Norway, so it was going to be a interesting return, but now we are back home safe and sound!

Spare gearbox is on its way at the moment thanks to James and next I'm going to order some goodies from Iddy and Nengun or RHDjapan to get the car back to life stronger than ever. ;)

300gr Räzo

Bilt Hamber autofoam prewash, Dodo Juice Sour Power waxshampoo and Dodo Juice Supernatural wax

C52/C56 box with or without aftermarket LSD, must be in fully working order, no whines/crunches.

Also need to be shipped to Finland. Post/PM what you got

now my readings on the aem Wideband are between 14.2-14.8 (likes to go up and down alittle) where as before I was getting 16.5-17

The stock ecu is trying to run stoich on idle/low load (warm engine), so your AEM should be showing between 14.2-14.8. Value will change all the time as the ECU is constantly monitoring the lambda voltage and adjusting fuel to maintain a stoich A/F ratio.

lowered the fpr to around 2.6bar now have readings at 5k revs and over of 11.4-11.7 that's on full boost, from reasearch and everyone's help that to me seems about spot on.

Sounds right for WOT.

Yeah, syncro is what I fear, but I keep hoping

The Kanjozoku: Osaka's Infamous Street Racers

Parental advisory: Honda content!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELJW-Bsrnmk

Was it hard to select too when engine wasn't running? I have currently quite big problems to get the 3rd in and sometimes it crunches even on idle. Also the cable end felt saggy when compared to the other one.

GT box takes ~2,5litres, Glanza box 1,9litres

You sound like a HKS kinda guy

This! Get the Silent Hi-Power ;)

You will need to use gearbox oil with lsd additive, not diff oil, because it's a FF car and you will ruin the synchros otherwise.

I think ET45 might be too much, your tires will rub car's body so better to go with ET40-25 with 7" wide wheels. I have 195/55 friction tires with ET40 and even they were rubbing to the body on full lock.

6.5" ET38 will be fine.

It really depends of the rim width. 5.5" ET20 will poke as much(less) as 7" ET40

Loosen PS belt, undo the power steering pump(3 bolts), exhaust (3bolts), turbo oil feed/return+waterlines and then the manifold nuts to remove the whole turbo kit at once. Much faster and easier than splitting the kit.

maybe bad connection somewhere

The speed signal comes from the speedo to the ecu. If the speedo is not working, then there's cable, gearbox or speedo fault. If the speedo is working, then the speedo, signal wire or ecu is broken. Is your spd signal wire spliced or modified some way?

You can also remove rear and front braces to give a bit more flex

https://youtu.be/8-z15n4utsY

I have D2 on Glanza and it's my daily

Yeah, but why advertise a courier shipping to Europe, if you aren't willing to do it anyway. Any Irish wanna buy one and send it to me?