Patches

Welcome Marty!

I wouldn't bother with the 4EFE, just enjoy the engine you have currently and save up for a standard 4EFTE setup.

Dropping that in with standard ECU, Turbo etc will be far better power for the money than trying to tune an NA engine.

If you do go for the 4EFE then you won't need an adjustable fuel pressure reg or to swap the injectors. Not sure why Sam is encouraging that. Putting in an adjustable FPR and injectors with the standard ECU will most likely cause all sorts of issues with fueling. If you add some more of engine management then there is still no need for a FPR or other injectors as these aren't required for any performance gains.

You will probably have some issues with wiring looms etc as any engine swap is tricky so if you're going to do it then I would only do it once and do it right.

On 2/14/2020 at 3:40 PM, RoyalDutchie said:

I've lubed the plug in the floor with silicone grease and dried the wet floor. Went to the garage to let them check for any leaks and they didn't find any. Seems the problem was the plug in the floor or the problem fixed itself somehow. Will keep an eye out for any wet carpet in the coming months.

Sometimes I find water gets in via my door rubbers if the car is parked on a high camber road. Door rubbers aren't sealing properly at the bottom so water ends up on the plastics at the bottom of the door when shut

Welcome! you should fire up some pictures of the EP82's as well if you have any

On 1/27/2020 at 10:49 AM, wakeabby14 said:

My problem is timing from the ecu. due to the longer stroke on the crank ect the timing is out in all rev ranges apart from idle, the fuel pressure is at 2.3 bar with the vac line off.  I cannot run the copper plugs as i need to run heat range 8 plugs due to my boost goals.  The ecu should sort it all out. I will be putting the injectors in once the ecu comes so it should be all sorted soon.  Glad you like the build and everyone is enjoying my hard work! cheers boys 

That's all cool with regards to the fuel pressure, plugs, injectors etc...

I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure timing isn't affected by the length of the stroke on the crank. On both 4e and 5e engines the engine position sent to the ECU from the cam sensor in distributor (some 5e's also have a crank sensor but yours doesn't). The stock ignition map from both the 5e and 4e ECU's should be fine to run the car pottering about. What you need to check is that the timing has been set to 10 degrees using a timing light and bridging the relevant pins on the OBD port. Another thing to check is if the timing is correct between the cams and the crank when the timing belt was fitted if its a definitely a timing issue with the car.

I'm not an expert by any means but I have mapped my own car and set the base timing etc and have a bit of experience with poor timing and fueling. When i first started up on the standalone ECU the map was really rich which would start ok, idle ok, rev okish but the minute you put any load on the engine it would misfire which sounds a bit like your issue since you are running rich

Best of luck

17 hours ago, thomas cleeves said:

A year I know it’s not forever but going to drive me crazy looking at it and not driving it 

Just my 2p, that year will come round sooner than you think and you might be hard pushed to find another car to replace it.

It's a great car and you've clearly put a lot of time and effort into it. I would hold on to it personally.

Great build man, stick in there. The last 5% always takes 95% of the time getting the small details sorted out. 

Just out of interest you aren't using the Injector Dynamics yet? Another thing to check would be what fuel pressure you have with the engine running and vac line pulled off. Think it should be 2.3 bar or something for stock pressure.

Running really rich will cause misfires, it can also foul your spark plugs so would be careful you don't end up damaging them. If you need to replace them then a lot of people (including myself) swear by the copper NKG's rather than the iridiums, you can pick up a set of 4 delivered for less than £10 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-NGK-Spark-Plug-BKR7E/352432780855

15 hours ago, RenBlue said:

Greetings folks, recently bought an 1986 Toyota Starlet. Here for some help and advice.

 

Cheers!

Nice one! Welcome, you should upload some pictures or start a build thread. Got a few other users with EP70 projects on here as well

On 8/30/2019 at 10:08 AM, Glanza-MK said:

Tris: Thanks.

After 98/99 spec front indicators (full unit, not just clear lenses). Ordered them from Toyota recently against part numbers I used for them 13 years ago and got the full unit orange as they used my 96 chassis number this time. Couldn’t do it without one apparently!

I’ve got 81510-10300 and 81520-10280 as the part numbers for them.

Grateful for any assistance. Have searched here and TGTT.com but can’t find the specifics.

Thanks again.

https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/starlet/EP91/61052/electric/8103/81510

I know this is an old thread but I use amayama.com for finding part numbers. You can see on that page above it says what year each part was used. You want 81510-10300 as these were produced from 12-1997 onwards (aka 98/99)

2 hours ago, TrisK said:

What happens when you try?

It doesn't seem to be happening with all users but it's happening when I try to message Enkei. Seems to be users with lower post counts (less than 50) the message section doesn't load or allow me to type in it, that's the only pattern I can see but I've only tested with about 10 users.

On 6/12/2019 at 8:54 PM, Socks said:

Welcome back everyone!
On a new, stable platform with a new Host.

If you find any faults or errors, please be sure to let us know!

Enjoy the forum, again

Don't know if this is the case for everyone but I'm unable to private message anyone

On 11/19/2019 at 1:54 PM, Enkei said:

Blitz exhaust system. It has a nut on the side of the tip, if anyone comes across this on any for sale sites, can you please contact me.

I sold this exhaust to someone with PayPal goods, the buyer arranged the courier service which was parcel2go my Hermes. It's  now lost nicked or been scammed. I'm in a dispute with PayPal,  £300 money retracted. The address he was sending the parcel to was a shipping company jambo cargo LTD and not his home address. Only found out today PayPal will only cover a seller if they use the address from the buyers PayPal account. So looking like I'm going to loose my case all because he arranged the courier service. What a joke, I can't even get through to the courier service because again didn't arrange it. In the meantime he will get his money and I don't get my exhaust system back.

That is a residential address, I would take that up with paypal. There may be a business registered there but it's definitely a house.

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/toyota-gr-yaris-hot-hatch-unveiled-257bhp-turbo-engine

Looks awesome, finally Toyota producing something decent with, hopefully, a Toyota engine this time.

Not a big fan of the Yaris in general but this is cool as

On 1/9/2020 at 11:54 AM, Mattlmr said:

Hi in new here I live in the Scottish Highlands 🙂 I do not own a starlet but i do own a starlet 4e-fe engine which will hopefully be going in something Once i can figure our some things So hoping you guys can help, Then i can reveal the success haha

Hey there, from Glasgow myself.

Get a build thread up when you're ready and put your questions in the relevant sections. Are you going with a standalone ECU?

Amazing man, love the fact your going with the supercharger. Really interested to see how this works out for you.

2 hours ago, akyakapotter said:

Check you still have the clips for the cables gearbox end I lost one on track and gave the the issues you have. Cheers nick 

I'll check this when I get to the car after work, cheers man!

15 hours ago, Lewis Aston Phipard-shears said:

Hi 

looking for some advice on my ep91 when I put my foot down and give it some I don’t seem to be able to change/find any gears. 1st to 2nd won’t go in and 2nd to 3rd is the same. is this the gearbox giving up or something to do with clutch as it only dose it when flooring it ? 

Car has updated clutch not sure what tho and not to long ago had new master cylinder and slave 

cheers 

I've got the same thing happening with mine so keen to see what answers come up.

Finally got the car mapped. Shout out to Chris at Dyna Tune for holding my hand while I mapped it myself. Big thanks to Stu on here as well for all his help getting me started with a base map and all the advice!

So it made 138 hp at the hubs on low boost 0.7 bar and 184 hp at the hubs at 1.2 bar. Pretty happy with that. Works out around 211 at the crank so it's no slouch!

Going to just enjoy the car for a while now. Sort the tacho as well as I'm repeatedly hitting the limiter haha

3 hours ago, Timmah said:

Cheers dude! I did realise the drive shafts are different, but did not realise they may be next to impossible to find here.

Might be worth seeing whoever has the box if they can supply the shaft with it. They come up from time to time but generally get sold with a box rather than on their own

4 hours ago, Timmah said:

Does it look like it has an LSD? 

Cheers!

Yes that to me looks like an OEM LSD Gearbox. It has the lsd outside of the box on the drivers side, standard gearboxes do not have this.

Be warned that you will need to source a shorter drivers side driveshaft as they are shorter because the lsd pokes out the side. These drive shafts would have came with the car which had the LSD box fitted but can be quite difficult to find.

7 minutes ago, RobSR said:

Ah ok yes, that will be your problem, you need to wire it directly to the clocks as they are feed from the Coil, then bypass the resistor. When you get the clocks out its quite easy to see/do.

Way ahead of you Rob!

On 5/14/2019 at 5:28 PM, RobSR said:

Its very simple to do, bypass the resistor which sits on the IG- circuit of the cluster. Set the duty to drive it in the Link and you can have key on swoop etc too.

Ive done it a couple of times and never had an issue.

Think my issue is I've wired it into a plug near the ECU which I tested with a multimeter and appeared to go to the correct pin on the clocks but I'm going to wire directly to the clock when I have time, this is a low priority.

So I've got some dyno time booked in less than a month to map this myself on an actual dyno which will make life much easier than trying to do it on the road. I'll actually be able to map the ignition tables properly as well as I'll be able to see the torque changing in real time. The guy who owns the dyno has happily agreed to help me listen for knock using my Link Knockblock as I'm not 100% confident my ears are up to the task.

Also got this little lot to replace the wax stat. Got the Toyota gasket, Ford Mondeo Idle Control Valve and gasket and plug and pins to suit. Just need to scan the gaskets and create a cad file for an aluminium adapter

On 4/26/2019 at 12:56 AM, Stu said:

Even the factory 20v 4age unit can be made to work very nicely. 

Not sure what you mean by this? does the factory 20v 4age have an electronic ICV?

On 4/26/2019 at 10:29 PM, youah said:

Just read your Thread.
Looks really nice.

I have a Question tho.
How did u connect the TPS? 
Do you got any pictures of it? 

Would help me out alot.

Cheers

Cheers man.

I don't have any pictures of mine but I did get the idea myself from Phil's build

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/71206-ep82-gt-ccm-demo-take-2/?page=6

Wiring wise I followed the Link G4+ help files.

It's quite easy to fit, the glanza throttle body has 2 holes where you need to tap threads in to mount the skyline TPS. I had to cut a bit off the pole part you mount the TPS to but other people used washers to space the TPS away from the throttle body

On 4/17/2019 at 8:56 PM, RobSR said:

Yes Zisco inlet and the cheapy EBay like TB that people have on them.

Good stuff tho, let us know how you get on, should be fairly easy to implement.

Will do man, might be a while before I get round to this

On 4/17/2019 at 11:47 PM, Ryan.Truesdale said:

I work in a cnc shop

Nice one, I might send you a pm when I get round to designing the plate to pick your brains if that'd be cool?

On 4/18/2019 at 7:53 AM, Dean_mc88 said:

Guys in america use a BMW idle control valve. A lot cheaper than most options.

 

ive stripped my throttle down and put a gasket inbetween the wax stat and the throttle part. stops any sticking issues and allows you to remove the water lines.

My car still idles fine and has cold start idle still.

Yeah i was looking at the BMW ones, might go with a ford one as the aftermarket ones can be had for £20ish.

You got any pictures of what you've done? I might do something like that temporarily as the sticking is quite annoying