Patches

2 hours ago, RobSR said:

Its a good idea and something i was going to look at before going DBW, that said it depends how picky you are. The last couple of starlets ive had on the dyno with aftermarket TB, no Wax Stat and no ICV still idle fine at 1000rpm as you control it with ignition. Not perfect, but as said depends how particular you are. It would be more important for people with secondary load on idle such as turning AC on, but again most have removed this anyway.

It's a good point actually, were these cars using aftermarket intake manifolds which came with aftermarket throttle bodies?

I think I'll still go ahead with this as for me its all about keeping the costs low. I've never had anything made with a CNC machine before so if anyone has any experience/advice I'd love to hear it

Just wondering if anyone has attempted to do something like this?

http://www.nzefi.com/product/toyota-1uz-fe-idle-speed-control-solenoid-conversion-kit/

I've ordered a throttle body to wax stat gasket off Toyota so am planning on scanning this in to design an adapter plate in CAD similar to the above link. 

The wax stat system is shite and I don't fancy forking out £1300+ for a DBW system, capable ECU etc so this seems like a cheaper alternative. Should provide a nice stable idle while reducing heat in the intake.

On 3/28/2019 at 9:58 PM, Danza said:

Did you manage to get the Tacho to work in the end?

Not had the time to look at it again. My next step was to run my own wiring from the ECU to the plug at the clocks as at the moment i'm using the original wiring but i've either wired into the wrong place or its not suitable for the low current.

Got a list the size of my arm of things to sort before I get to that.

Got the car booked in to get the new wheels fitted and got an alignment (it badly needed the camber sorted) and decided to get corner weighting done at the same time as it wasn't much extra.

Total car weight is 957kg which isn't too bad. The car handles much better now as you can imagine, no longer feels like it handles turning one way better than the other. Really impressed.

How it's sitting now, really happy with how the wheels look. 

On 2/1/2019 at 2:25 PM, Tray said:

Was doing some check up while engine was running when accidently a bov on the rocker fell and  snap off iginition coil wire but afterwards i have no oil ligth on dash any idea what to check please. But engine working fine.

The oil pressure switch is at the bottom right of the engine. It has a single wire going to it.

2 hours ago, TimD said:

Yes, standard triggering should work, or so I'm told.

Have you set the base ignition timing with a timing light? If not I would do that first to ensure its firing the correct cylinders at the right time

On 6/6/2017 at 2:54 PM, Scoobysvx said:

 

Thanks mate! I've been doing bits here and there but nothing worthy of an update. Driveshafts are in finally and a few other things have been changed around. Now in the process of plumbing in the oil pressure gauge, cranking over to get good pressure then start her up and set fpr etc

Anything worthy of an update now?

A few updates

I fitted the fuel pressure sensor on the return line, after the regulator. This is the completely wrong place to put it! I need to move this to the feed line, I switched to using traditional fuel equation for the time being and can now run boost

The mayo was just condensation from sitting for a long time so no need to panic there.

The cars getting used a lot despite loads of wee jobs left to do in terms of tidying up. Road tuning is pretty hard with traffic and my limited free time so I've not completed the mapping yet. Need to set aside a full day and borrow a mate to finish this. May hire a dyno depending on free cash.

And I got these delivered the other day

13 hours ago, hopalong_neil said:

That's a fair point, the sensor I used was from my old gt but I guess there is nothing to say it has died since last using it... 

Time to get the multimeter out I think... 

Thanks 

Yeah its worth checking the wiring at the o2 sensor as well as this can get a bit worn over time.

Is your AFR ok on boost?

I had a similar issue, I replaced my o2 sensor with a non genuine one and it never fixed the issue. I then fitted a powerfc with the hand commander which read out the voltages for all sensors and the new o2 sensor was reading 0V. Turned out the sensor didn't work.

£90 for a genuine sensor and problem solved. I'm not saying this is your solution but that's what I had to do in the end.

On 8/28/2018 at 9:57 AM, PvflindtDK said:

Just another one of the connector, which I am very happy for!

Can't see any pictures since you mentioned trying from your google account

Have a look at what bilt hamber have on their site, some of their products are great for treating rust

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/deox-gel

3 hours ago, daniel_g said:

You would have to get custom made poly mounts made with a lower shore compound.

I have red JD tuning mounts in my 85, they are 65A i believe.

I once tried to make my own with a 2 part liquid compound, but ended up not setting correctly. 

How are you finding those daniel? I think one/many of my mounts are worn but I'm not keen on having more vibrations

Hi Grant,

Welcome to the forum! You should definitely get some pictures up both old and new

I use this site to find part numbers, just select your car from the options at the top and then you'll be able to see diagrams as well as part numbers

http://japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/

On 9/16/2018 at 11:17 PM, wee_shep said:

Beeped horn at me while filling ep85 with screen wash at Co op petrol station Aberdeen in his car which was towing a gun metal grey glanza on a trailer 

That could be Mike84 

18 hours ago, SKINY said:

I've been having this issue for months, can reply in wanted section still.

Conclusion I've came to is nobody cares

Yea I raised these issues also, admins need to get the finger out and fix these issues. Its no wonder why people are using facebook instead

Cool man I'll give that a go first then.

Hopefully this resolves the issue

3 minutes ago, Calum122 said:

Don't need that tool to swap the hub over? Just a soft face mallet to tap the driveshaft out of the hub.

 

ah right, was thinking i might need it to press the hub in? Heard that the bearings can split otherwise, could be wrong

I've got a rotational noise coming from my disc hitting my caliper bracket after a wheel bearing change.

I've got a spare hub to swap in so I'm going to try that next but think I'll need one of these tools to swap it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Front-Wheel-Hub-Drive-Bearing-Removal-Tool-Set-Kit-FREE-DELIVERY/261319029295?hash=item3cd7d3f22f:g:4lkAAOSwn45Z3I5p

anyone used one of these on their starlet?

On 8/3/2018 at 7:01 PM, Siwfc said:

As in the title, the short loom with the 3 bulb holders. Must be a facelift one. 

Thanks in advance..

I've got one for 98 spec sitting about somewhere. Pm me if you're interested

That'll be an auto throttle body, assuming you mean for starlets? Quite hard to come by, if you're going standalone then you can use a skyline gtr TPS on the manual 3 pin throttle body.

Works really well, few people on here have done it. Just have to cut the spindle down slightly and tap some threads in holes which already exist.

Worth asking Toyota, think these can be had for a reasonable price

Awesome stuff man! Glad to see an update on this.

Great choice of ECU, been looking at e-throttle myself keen to see how this goes. Haven't seen anyone else using one on this forum.

What are your plans for the conversion? Welding on a new throttle flange to the intake?

I was looking at gt86 pedals and bosch motorsport e-throttle body if i was to do it myself

7 hours ago, daniel_g said:

 

Sure it was a shell that remained a shell 

It was the best high power starlet build I ever almost seen