Patches

So this happened

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjNqileYZLg

The codes are also on that post further down.

So its saying a short in the coolant temp sensor and an issue with the knock sensor so check both of them and the wiring

You can find out fault codes with just bridging 2 pins with a piece of wire

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/diagnostic-tool.72012/#post-848457

20 hours ago, nikhilkamdar12 said:

Just need an old one for setting my timing on my standalone. As I have COP setup only accurate way.

Threw away my old ones :(

Have you tried using the timing light on the coil wiring? I've heard that sometimes that gives off a good enough signal for a timing light to use.

There are also spark plug extension leads so you can connect a lead between the coil and the spark plug

I found the starter wire, its this red wire on this plug

Yeah I would leave the loom in the engine bay and just unplug all the sensors etc from the engine. The hardest to access ones are on the back of the engine, knock sensor, starter and alternator

I got a bit chop happy with my loom when fitting a standalone ECU and have cut this red wire which is for the starter switch. Problem is I can't find where it connects to in the cabin loom.

I've tried all of the wires on the blue connector next to the ECU but no luck

Could be one of these wires on this plug maybe?

Any help appreciated cheers! 

Looks awesome! Enjoying watching this coming together

I wouldn't say that's a bargain to be honest, no one wants an automatic 5 door.

Think most people would want glanza panels, a paint job and normal interior before they would consider it

On 12/11/2017, 06:43:42, jiggaman_16 said:

Plz let us kno how the tacho mod goes. Could you be so kind as to share the info about the resistor swap?

Will do man, hopefully I'll be powering up the ecu for the first time in the next month or so. Will update this thread and message you when I do that

Swapped out the 43k ohm resistor in the tacho with a 1k ohm resistor so I can drive the tacho from the ECU signal. Hopefully did this correctly as the guides I tried to use had no images due to Photobucket changing their policy

Old

New

Hopefully get to spend some more time on the car soon, not far away now

Progress is slow but it's getting there, putting in a hour here and there when i get the chance.

The looms almost finished. Just need to replace some of the wires I accidentally chopped from the original loom then it's ready to tidy up.

Fitted the wepr distributor cover and made a bracket for my ford coil pack. Found a scrap bit of steel and bent it and cut it to shape, wee bit of paint and it's looking alright actually, it might get replaced in the future but for now it's fine.

With using the Ford coil pack I also needed a new ignitor/ignition module which had to be fitted to a suitable heat sink so I ordered a piece of aluminium, cut it to size and drilled and tapped threads to mount the ignitor. Also used rivnuts to attach the plate to the firewall. It's crude but should do the trick and keep it out of sight.

Word of advice dude, glanza looms between 96-97 and 98-99 are quite different, I imagine gt turbos to have quite a few differences as well.

I had to cut an bigger hole in my 96 wing when putting a 98 loom into it.

To save hassle I would just get the right year looms

Small update.

Not much happened this year with the car, just became a dad so that's taken up most of my free time.

I have now managed to find an affordable space to work on the car near me which is awesome!

Finished 95% of the wiring, just got to wire in low current circuits for the injector and ignition relays, run a new oil pressure switch wire to the dash and re connect a wire from the alternator i accidentally chopped and its ready to power up the ecu, set base ignition timing etc...

I also replaced the connectors on my spark plugs to suit the ford coilpack

No worries, it just happened recently.

OK so you have a couple of options, you could buy a weldable flange and weld it onto the intercooler piping. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Weld-On-Pipe-Adapter-Flange-To-Fit-HKS-Sqv-Ssqv-Blow-Off-Dump-Valve-/361258426571?hash=item541cae20cb:g:3ioAAOSwpDdVG-D7 make sure its the same type of metal as your piping. Dean at RW Developments or a decent local fabricator should be able to sort this out for you

Or you could cut a section of the intercooler piping you have out and replace it with something like this, 4 clamps and some silicone hose http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-T-Piece-2-51mm-I-D-50mm-Tial-Dump-Blow-Off-Valve-BOV-Flange-V-Band-Pipe-/191943594494?hash=item2cb0bad1fe:g:ITcAAOSwBahU2KtU

Here's a pic of the engine bay it has a td04 set up.

http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/ac122/n1lz/IMG_3855_1.jpg

Sorry dude I can't see that image, photobucket changed their settings so you can't share images without paying now

I had a look on google and I saw that most starlets have the intercooler pipe cut and the dump valve fitted on there. Couldn't seem to see one with the hks and a front mount intercooler.

Does anyone have a pic of one?

Also do you know if this is the only option as I would prefer not to cut the intercooler pipe?

Put up a picture of what you have at the moment so I can get a better idea of what you need

If i was you I would just get the part from Toyota, that way you should get the right part. You'll pay a bit more for it but personally i find genuine engine parts are the best way to go

hey guys, where the oil switch wire runs from i have a 2 pin plug and a big red-ish wire that not connected. Can you guys help me sort this out.

Cheers mate very useful video.

I'm looking at one I like currently. Would the hks ssqv4 with a 34mm flange fit the starlet? It's a universal one.

The standard outlet size is 25mm on the starlet and is connected by hose so you'll probably need a flange adaptor and maybe a reducer hose. Have a look at the pictures of the HKS fitted to other starlets to get an idea of what you might need

You should check out this video, it should explain a lot of questions you might have about dump valves.

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_fG_b65WiU

I wouldn't say there is a "best" dump valve, just pick one you like the sound of. Would probably avoid fake ones and baileys tho as they seem pretty unreliable

ME221 is the best option but depends what your budget is. they are around £600 I think compared to £160 ish for det 3, 200ish for emanage. Wouldnt take a tuner long to wire either in

Sorry dude I was getting a bit confused, I thought you meant the standalone ECU which ECU Master sell (which is £600ish).

Personally I would avoid a piggyback ECU all together but if you're on a budget then perhaps the DET3 isn't a bad idea

it is yes, but then not really in the same price range/ type of ECU

Its not far off the same price, and it's a lot less hassle. No need to make an adaptor harness/cutting plugs etc, or having to setup the ECU. Just plug in and take to someone to tune. Much more simple, depends what you're after really but for most people it should be all they need.

PS i don't own either so can't really rate them personally

another good option is the ME221

have you checked the fuse box under the steering wheel?

also hope you wired the gauges with the negative battery terminal disconnected