Patches

On 06/05/2018, 21:52:11, AdamB said:

That setup won't make any power beyond 6500rpm. 

Yeah Adam knows because he had a 20,000rpm starlet...

Awesome stuff man! Glad to see it fired up

The general consensus on mayo in the oil cap on this form is that you have a head gasket failure, after speaking to a mechanic friend he said it was most likely just condensation causing the mayo in my oil cap. This is because the car had been sitting for over a year and also short drives where it wasn't getting up to temp.

Topped up the coolant, oil on the dipstick looks perfect so no drama.

Now just to find some time and nice weather to finish all the wee remaining issues then complete the map.

3 hours ago, OttersPocket said:

Exaust, exactly as his is in the pictures. 

Thanks for info. Gutted. 

 

Wouldn't be gutted mate, someone should be able to weld it back on for you at a reasonable cost.

These are old cars now so things will fail from time to time

On 14/03/2018, 20:09:22, BMX-RIG said:

Bump

you might have issue with the rpm signal, I could be wrong but the glanza outputs a high level signal from the igniter and the standard starlets don't

On 02/04/2018, 12:13:21, Forgedglanza1996 said:

Got a wepr manifold on my forged starlet and I can’t seem to find a v band inlet and outlet turbo anywhere can someone help me out????

I would get in touch with garrett, pretty sure they do v-band turbos

On 28/03/2018, 21:45:39, Mike84 said:

Hope you get to the bottom of the issues

Great build 

Cheers man! Been really enjoying following your build

On 31/03/2018, 16:54:26, jiggaman_16 said:

Doesnt mean that the voltage present at the fuel pump connection is the same healthy voltage that the ECU reads at whatever point it takes a voltage measurement. Wat i once did wen havin issues was to connect a voltmemter to the fuel pump connector just at the fuel pump hatch underneath the backseat & have someone observe it for me while under boost. Worthy a try. 

 

Anyhoo, sounds like the pump is packin in tho ....... 

Yeah I've got access to the cover so that was going to be my next move after the fuel filter. I think I've found something dodgy which won't be helping the issue, the normal chassis ground for the fuel pump isn't being used and has been replaced with a tek screw at the rear lights! I'll be fixing that and using the proper ground.

Got bigger problems to deal with first...

My first thought was I must have mixed up throttle body hoses but checked those and they are correct.

Then I remembered when i changed the coolant temp sensors over I lost a bit of coolant, I topped up the radiator and filled the overflow bottle up full figuring that would be fine as I never lost that much. Check the overflow bottle which still had a decent amount in it so took the radiator cap off and its lower than the top of the cores :/

In hindsight I should have bled the system, you live and learn.

Oh well, plan of action is

1. Top up coolant
2. Change oil and filter with cheap oil
3. Do a compression test
4. If the compression is alright then I'll take it for a quick drive, use engine flush and change oil + filter again then keep an eye on my oil and coolant.

If compression is bad I'll be removing the head and taking it for there.

On 28/03/2018, 07:18:26, MitchD said:

Hi guys 

 

does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Glanza clusters ? Need to try find the below wires for my new dash 

RPM SIGNAL CABLE 

FUEL SENDER CABLE 

LEFT AND RIGHT INDICATORS 

 

Cheers 

mitch 

http://dub-se7en.toyotagtturbo.com/useful_info/OTHER_PDFS/klokkenset%20glanza.pdf

Scroll down to see the glanza pinout

49 minutes ago, daniel_g said:

Make replacement wiring to the fuel pump. Seems to be a bit of an issue with regards to voltage drop on standard wiring in a few starlets.

Meant to say the voltage (at least in the ECU logs) remains a constant 14.3v while this is happening. Cheer though man, I'll give that a go if changing the fuel filter isn't fixing the issue.

On 08/03/2018, 15:56:45, Gainzy said:

Smart build this mate I like it

Thanks dude!

Not really had any time to work on this recently, just taking it a drive twice a week and running data logging to look over when I get back to make some minor changes to the curise map.

When doing this i noticed something really weird going on with the fuel pressure. When the boost pressure increases the fuel pressure starts to decrease. My initial thoughts are clogged filter, got a new one waiting to be fitted, or the Tuning Developments fuel pump is garbage. Both could be true so will change the fuel filter first and see how i get on

57 minutes ago, Nilz90 said:

I'm using a electronic boost controller - Greddy Profec Type S. It has a gain, low and high knobs.

The way I connected it was COM - into the actuator NO - into the turbo and I made a T with the standard fuel pressure regulator with the hose that runs to the main unit.

When i got the car it was unplugged and the car was on 0.3 bar boost.

Do you think I need to adjust the actuator?

If its hitting 0.8bar, dropping and then going back to 0.8bar i wouldn't touch the actuator. 

It sounds like an issue with what the gain is set to. Below is the guide, theres troubleshooting at the end.

http://greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_S.pdf

Once it hits your target boost pressure (0.8bar) it should hold it there.

What kind of boost controller are you using?

3 hours ago, Nilz90 said:

Thanks mate I'll leave it on the high boost setting at 0.8 then. Do you think it's boosting right for how i described it above for a td04 on standard ecu at 0.8. When should the boost kick in?

Haven't driven a starlet before I got this one and it was always set to 0.3 previously so just want to make sure it is boosting right before I map it in a couple of months.

Does your boost controller not display your current boost? If not I would get a boost gauge. With TD04 you should be seeing 0.8bar by 4000rpm.

If i was you i would take the car to a dyno and do a power run just to double check the fueling with a wideband and get them to hook up a knock sensor as well. That way you'll know how safe your car is running and also if there are any problems with power etc

1 hour ago, mccartney11 said:

Hi I’d like to fit my td04 kit next weekend, as I’ll be doing a lot of bits to the car I thought I’d get it done while I’m at it, just wondering what way do lads set the turbo to 0.5/6 just to keep it safe on stock ecu until I get the standalone and get it mapped

 

its going onto a 5e , would I need to upgrade fpr and injectors for .6 or would standard ecu be adequate for time being? I will have it hooked up to wideband and check the det while I’m setting it up 

 

just st want to know the handiest way to set it with the internal actuator thanks

Are you using a GT/Glanza ECU with the 5e? If so I'd imagine the volumetric efficiency would be quite different from a 4e engine so wouldn't be sure that would be a good idea to run that engine with the standard ecu at all. Someone else can correct me if i'm wrong on that.

With regards to standard fpr and injectors, I ran a TD04 on these at 0.6 bar on 4e and standard ECU for over a year with no issues. I ran a wideband so had was able to keep an eye on AFR at least.

Another thing to note is being unable to edit posts in build thread. Was going to replace all of the photobucket image links

On 3/15/2018, 10:53:20, Dimitar said:

Nice one mate, I have read up that other people are having the same issue with that boost controller and the factory actuator. I will try connecting everything again otherwise will be going for a HKS actuator and electronic boost controller 

Ah fair play man, I just assumed you could have adjusted these down to nothing. Is the car pretty much standard? 

Let us know how you get on

Sounds like you have a leak mate, make sure all of the connections are good as any small leaks will allow the boost to rise

On 28/02/2018, 16:19:02, jimmymac101 said:

Bet it was a good feeling getting it back on the road after all this time!

James 

Definitely man! Its such a weird feeling driving it again.

Still got a lot of wee jobs to do

• Fix the indicators/horn
• replace fuel filter (no idea how old the current one is)
• get the tacho working
• ICV seems to be doing nothing so see if that can be cleaned out/repaired or maybe just remove completely
• Finish tuning!
• sort out the issue with the lambda sensor losing power when the heaters get turned on (I'm using the ABS relay and fuse so that'll be playing a part)
• Reseal the fuel pump cover
• refit back seats
• re wire the reverse light switch back in
• fit JD Tuning bonnet struts which I've had for about 2 years

The list goes on but that's the need to do's

Ordered some new gaskets for my td04 since it looks like it has liquid gasket on at the moment

That's awesome man! Your son looks so happy, love the fact he has ear defenders on haha

Interesting speed sensor, where did you get it from? I didn't think the output on the clocks would have been that bad

So managed to put in loads of hours over the last couple of weeks and got the car back on the road. Below is the engine bay all back together

Got my mate out his bed at 6:30am on Saturday to help me get this thing mapped on the way for its MOT. Really difficult to road tune with the amount of cars we had on the road but we managed to get most of the cursing load sites up to 3500 rpm. Didn't try mapping into positive boost as I haven't had time to install my Link Knockblock. Think I'll book a couple of hours at a local dyno and finish the tune there.

Getting its MOT

The car developed a shorting issue somewhere on the haz-horn circuit driving back from the MOT so will need to address that before anything else happens

12 hours ago, 5e colin said:

You still get gauge movement said it yourself.

Alright mate, put your keyboard down. Yes it moved when sitting in traffic or idling for a long time, if I didn't drive in rush hour it may have never moved. It could be the temp sensor but its not going to do any harm replacing the thermostat as its a cheap part and might fix the issue like it did for me

On 23/02/2018, 11:42:16, 5e colin said:

Nothing to do with thermostat open or not even without a thermostats inside temp will rise. 

 

Its probly the temp sensor on the housing  make sure wire is connected to right sensor 

Put ground to the wire and check I'd the gauge shoots up if it does then sensor fucked if not cluster gauge fucked

When I first picked up my starlet the temp gauge would only rise when sitting idling for a while, when I drove the car it would drop back down to 0. Replaced the thermostat and that fixed the problem for me so could be thermostat related.

28 minutes ago, A17 HYT Glanza V said:

result guys! Up and running engine management lights off too... mot this week end and spray and temp needle just left now 

Is your temp gauge not rising? if so its a common problem, thermostat needs replaced

8 hours ago, jiggaman_16 said:

Any luck with the Tachometer mod?

Nah not yet man but think it might be an issue with my wiring, I hooked the ECU tacho output to the IG- on the clocks but its not working. I went a bit mad chopping loads out of the loom so its possible I cut out a power wire required for the tacho. Could also be I disabled the output on the ECU, I'll be looking to fix this next time I'm working on the car

On 12/02/2018, 11:22:45, TimD said:

Good work!

Cheers man  still loads of wee jobs left to do but been getting much more time to work on the car recently

With the ignition on and using a multi meter, one wire should have a constant 12v and the other wire should have nothing with the engine not running which will be the negative you are after. When the engine is running this connection will be grounded by the igniter to create spark.