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Coil on plug conversion.


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Morning boys and girls...my car is going for a new ecu to be fit, set up etc this week and ive been told about the coil on plug conversion. Is there anything to be gained by this? Is it worth me spending the extra couple of hundred £££ to do this at the same time as the set up? Or is it a waste of money. Ive already got iridium plugs and magnecore high performance leads on the little ripper.


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Morning boys and girls...my car is going for a new ecu to be fit, set up etc this week and ive been told about the coil on plug conversion. Is there anything to be gained by this? Is it worth me spending the extra couple of hundred £££ to do this at the same time as the set up? Or is it a waste of money. Ive already got iridium plugs and magnecore high performance leads on the little ripper.

Unless you're running stupidly high boost levels or have an issue where it's blowing the spark out, not really. And depending on the ecu, its possible to retrofit at a late date.

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I'm going for an ECUMASTER EMU and I've been told they can be quite easily installed at a later date. I'll be running around 200-220 so not massive amounts of power. Not worth doing then no?

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for what your said...i'd just leave it as stock ignition system....i've seen many hit 300/400bhp all over the world on the stock system

save your money for something else

All he will be saving is the price of a set of cops. When you can get them cheap from a breaker vvti corollas/avensis etc (newer model).

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Standalone ECU that supports COP and that can drive them (preferably one with igniters built in I.e. K20 coils. (Saves the expense of using an external ignition amplifier).

There's 2 ways to implement it really regarding trigger pickup for the crank...

1) you get a 36-1 trigger wheel mounted and balanced to your crank pulley with a bracket made up for the sensor. In my case I have a VR sensor (Variable Reluctor) I wish now though I went for a hall sensor for the pickup. This is because I'm having difficulty starting the motor and takes a few times to crank before starting and I think it's down to using the VR sensor. As VR sensors base their signal of the voltage vs engine speed and voltage increases as the rpm increased and a lot of aftermarket ECU's need a minimum voltage before it starts firing. (My understanding of it)

If I went for a hall sensor on the other hand it works at 0 rpm and I can get a signal coming through.

2) You can use the original 24-1 dizzy pickup for your crank and cams signals direct without all this messing about. This way you can run fully sequential fuelling and ignition :) likewise for the trigger wheel setup.

Hope this helps!

Update, found a few emails from when I was doing all my ignition stuff and for the pickup probably stay with a VR sensor according to this, maybe I just have to fiddle more around with the startup settings...

Generally with a crank sensor we'll use a reluctor type sensor since they're much more stable at high switching speeds such as in the case of a 36 tooth trigger wheel at high RPMs.

Edited by nikhilkamdar12
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