Faiyaz.123 Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Hello all , I have tried searcing the correct method but can't seem to find it . I have taken out the arp headbolts I had .And now want to fit the arp studs. What needs to be done ? I have got the 4age arp head stud kit . Thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 My engine builder had to disassemble the short block to fit the 4age arp studs. The head also needs machined as the studs are a larger diameter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) The head is off the block at the moment. So that means I have to the head and block ? Any details on measuremets for the head and block.? Edited January 20, 2018 by Faiyaz.123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maddox710 Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Pretty sure the block needs drilling out where the old head bolts go and tapping for the wide stud Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Yes head drilling out can all be don't diy use your pillar drill Tape up the dec face use gaffa it's strong get yourself a drill and tap guide for m10 get 1 you can bold down to be precise When head gets installed you will find our where 1 needs grinding a bit to clear stuff Simple job with correct tools Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) On 1/20/2018, 4:11:15, 5e colin said: Yes head drilling out can all be don't diy use your pillar drill Tape up the dec face use gaffa it's strong get yourself a drill and tap guide for m10 get 1 you can bold down to be precise When head gets installed you will find our where 1 needs grinding a bit to clear stuff Simple job with correct tools Ok so I'm running Into a few problems have a look at the pics and advise 1st pic is what I purchased 2nd pic as you can see the problem 3rd pic is the old bolt in the middle compared to the studs on the sides. That doesn' look like an Mm difference Please help Edited January 22, 2018 by Faiyaz.123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Ya there's longer an shorter You need to drill or grind out the section to pas the nut treu Pay attention to when cams installed The OEM bolts is m9 the new m10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maddox710 Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 They are obviously not made for the 4e hence why a machine shop has to modify the block and head Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Get the dremel out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Ok this looks better. How deep to I go into the block ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 No idea dude. Machine shop job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maddox710 Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Whats wrong with arp head bolts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 studs are always better to clamp a headgasket down you get more even clamping force with studs then over bolts ( as they stretch unevenly ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 How many times can you reuse these studs. I threw away perfectly good head bolts when I did the head gasket cause I stripped a cam retainer bolt thread. I probably could have reused them but I felt uncomfortable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 ARP headbolts are proven to go to 420bhp + and over 2bar of boost on a couple cars on here, before lifting the head slightly. So nothing wrong with them at all. I went for the 4AGE ARP headstuds when getting my engine built mainly because i have a habbit of blowing up engines. So need as bomb proof as possible. Had ARP main studs fitted aswell. They are straight fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maddox710 Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Guarantee 99% of glanza owners will never come anywhere near the lifting point of arp head bolts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Big Faiyaz up there thought he might! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 9 hours ago, maddox710 said: Whats wrong with arp head bolts? i was trying hard not to ask that question....lol 2 hours ago, daniel_g said: ARP headbolts are proven to go to 420bhp + and over 2bar of boost on a couple cars on here, before lifting the head slightly. So nothing wrong with them at all. I went for the 4AGE ARP headstuds when getting my engine built mainly because i have a habbit of blowing up engines. So need as bomb proof as possible. Had ARP main studs fitted aswell. They are straight fit. thanks for you input...i see you're being overly cautious maybe Faiyaz has something special in mind for the project Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Usually about 1.7/1.8 bar of boost on a GT30 size turbo will lift the head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 On 1/23/2018, 7:27:51, maddox710 said: Whats wrong with arp head bolts? On 1/23/2018, 1:50:23, 5e colin said: studs are always better to clamp a headgasket down you get more even clamping force with studs then over bolts ( as they stretch unevenly ) Exactly what happen .the bolts when taken out , had a look and were stretched unevenly . On 1/23/2018, 2:43:49, maddox710 said: Guarantee 99% of glanza owners will never come anywhere near the lifting point of arp head bolts I'm sure they are more but if you say 99% then I'm part of that 1% On 1/23/2018, 3:32:42, daniel_g said: Big Faiyaz up there thought he might! The car did. So maybe I need to explain a little more .car was last tuned at 1.5 bar boost with eth mix pushed 414bhp. When I got the car back it just wasn't feeling right .So we decided to tune through a tuner in Russia with team viewer .and immediately with the tuning progress the car felt much better and as we went up to 1.8 bar. We felt a jerk .upon inspection we realised the headgasket is fine and the head actually started lifting off causing a little water oil mixture . Hence new gasket and studs. Hope that clears minds . Now I need more help please lol . We managed to get the studs in .but realising the longer studs not clearing the cam .we used the old spacers and made the holes a tad bigger for the stud to go through . Will post a pic by tomorrow what I mean. Any idea? On 1/22/2018, 10:47:23, 5e colin said: Ya there's longer an shorter You need to drill or grind out the section to pas the nut treu Pay attention to when cams installed The OEM bolts is m9 the new m10 When u say pay attention to when cams installed what do you mean ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Any help? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 Only other pic i have dude. Mine are nowhere near the cams. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 16 hours ago, Faiyaz.123 said: Any help? Pay attention if the timing cogs arnt touching the studs there close to it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 On 2/6/2018, 4:42:17, Faiyaz.123 said: Now I need more help please lol . We managed to get the studs in .but realising the longer studs not clearing the cam .we used the old spacers and made the holes a tad bigger for the stud to go through . Will post a pic by tomorrow what I mean. Any idea? by any chance do you have them installed incorrectly?----long studs on short side and vice versa? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Faiyaz.123 Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 On 2/9/2018, 11:38:17, 5e colin said: Pay attention if the timing cogs arnt touching the studs there close to it That' exactly what happened . Seems like the engineer hit a blunder .But managed to get them in .then into another problem .one of the bolts at 40nm just spins round .which means again the engineer has tapped it to big so advised to tap and install a helicoil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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