Frankieflowers Posted December 27, 2021 Share Posted December 27, 2021 On 12/26/2021 at 12:27 PM, Claymore said: I've had a look on the 4efe I have and there isn't a huge amount of space to fit this type of adapter and then the Toyota sensor in the end as the sensor or wiring plug may hit the clutch slave pipe. Also the wiring plug may not reach the sensor: The adapter with hose that akayakpotter suggested will be fine as it relocates the adapter at the end of a hose. Or there is an oil filter sandwich plate (D1 spec) that may fit without modding the power steering pump bracket. 3/4" UNF 16 tpi thread. Outer diameter of housing = 74mm, Inner diameter of housing = 54mm, Housing thickness (not including O-ring) = 28mm, O-ring seal outer diameter = 68mm, O-ring seal inner diameter = 60mm. @Frankieflowers @RoyalDutchie Did someone try this sandwich on the turbo engine with air conditioning? I have to be sure nothing have to be trimmed. If this won’t work then I will have to abandon the sandwich plate and go with the less safe adapter extension in the OEM oil pressure location and attach both adapters like in the picture the oil temp sensor won’t fit with short adaptor in the blanked spot on the relocation oil filter bracket Any idea? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted December 27, 2021 Share Posted December 27, 2021 On 7/15/2021 at 1:05 PM, akyakapotter said: This will work without making a hole in the pump bracket? I feel it’s the cleanest job I could do and get the pressure sensor i. The OEM location with the adaptor. Any idea? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted December 27, 2021 Share Posted December 27, 2021 19 minutes ago, Frankieflowers said: This will work without making a hole in the pump bracket? I feel it’s the cleanest job I could do and get the pressure sensor i. The OEM location with the adaptor. Any idea? Hi nope I had to drill a hole in the bracket or the sensor cable was bent to much for my liking imo Cheers nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Claymore Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 Had another crack at the puzzle last night: Assuming the gauge sensors are 1/8" npt. The simplest way I can make the MLR remote adapter work is shown below: You need a 1/8" NPT adapter to screw into the MLR side port. It has to be long enough so the gauge temperature sensor in the end doesn't block the gauge pressure port in the side: Not pretty, but it should work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
candy_red Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 Guys, dont bother fitting a temp sensor on the remote standoff. Its not accurate at all as there is no circulation of oil. It will be extremely slow to react to any changes in temp and will never ultimately show correct value. So its not worth all the brainstorming to make this work in order to only find out that your oil only "warms to about 50-60 C " and never past that, no matter what you do or how you drive. I m just saying this because i have tried it and eventually went the sandwich plate way before changing to cooler and remote filter location. It is possible to only shave some material off the sandwich plate instead of the bracket, at least thats how i did it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Claymore Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 On 7/15/2021 at 10:15 AM, candy_red said: WIll you be running AC? If not then a sandwich plate is the best and cleanest solution. Just grab one and grind away the material needed to clear the power steering tensioner bracket. I have my old one that i used before adding the oil cooler and filter relocation, i can snap some pics for you to see what it looked like when i get home. Frankie wants the solution to work with A/C, he has already tried a sandwich plate which he ground down and it leaked. If the temp. won't work in a remote adapter fair enough, thanks for saying. Hopefully the D1 adapter will work with A/C and no grinding of the adjuster bracket. This may be too demanding for the space available and the restriction of "no grinding". Was fun to think about though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 10 hours ago, candy_red said: way before changing to cooler and remote filter location I have the suspects that with no oil circulating it would be just approximate temperature. You’re not the first one who says that but I was hoping not to shave the steering pump bracket. So tell me more about how you relocated the oil filter who is the cooling system that if you have pictures. I would rather relocate the oil filter and get it out of that nasty corner too close to the belts. I had oil all over the place because of my sandwich leak that was caused because I shaved it. It worked for a few months but then it started to leak. I hate to get the bracket off and shave it. Maybe it is better to put a an oil filter cooling relocation kit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 9 hours ago, Claymore said: Frankie wants the solution to work with A/C, he has already tried a sandwich plate which he ground down and it leaked. If the temp. won't work in a remote adapter fair enough, thanks for saying. Hopefully the D1 adapter will work with A/C and no grinding of the adjuster bracket. This may be too demanding for the space available and the restriction of "no grinding". Was fun to think about though. Thank you for the drawing. That is exactly what I would do but it comes out that there is no oil circulation off to get the temperature accurate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
candy_red Posted January 5, 2022 Share Posted January 5, 2022 (edited) Oil pressure gauge will work excellent with a remote adapter and tbh its the most vital of the two. I have never had oil temp issues back when on ct9 even with light track duty and 1 bar of boost. Anything involving road driving wont cause oil temps above 110 degrees which is what i'd call excessive. If you MUST see oil temp as i said before sandwich adapter is the best bet. I remember i shaved mine just barely on the seal and never leaked over the 6-7 years i was using it. Relocation kits will give you the advantage of easy filter changes multiple sensor locations to choose from and also the ability to maybe later add a cooler. I have used all Mocal items, filter takeoff plate, remote oil filter head, thermostatic sandwich adapter, sandwich adapter for the sensors and a 10-row cooler with all the fittings and braided hose. If i m allowed to i can share the guys i got everything from off ebay. They are based in the UK and they were very helpful to help me sort out the system. Mind you that for this application i did eventually had to grind down the P/S bracket because the design of the takeoff plate wouldn't allow me to shave it like i did with the sandwich adapter, although only barely at the base as you can see in the picture below. This is the last resort and to be fair the most expensive solution to combine everything. Keep in mind i am running P/S, AC, big turbo bottom mounted and all that on a Yaris which has less space than the Starlet up front. Excuse me for the lengthy post! Edited January 5, 2022 by candy_red Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 On 12/28/2021 at 10:20 AM, Claymore said: You need a 1/8" NPT adapter to screw into the MLR side port. It has to be long enough so the gauge temperature sensor in the end doesn't block the gauge pressure port in the side: So I have been thinking about this option and after asking here and there they told me that it wouldn’t be proper because the oil wouldn’t be able to move through the pipe properly like it does in the sandwich plate. This wouldn’t permit a precise temperature and pressure reading. They basically said that it isn’t a good option. I was hoping it would work because I would get out of my oil filter area and belts. I hate to move around that area and have to compromise them with oil all the time. The other option is to relocate the oil filter with the special pipes for a future oil radiator. It is more expensive though. So I bought another sandwich plate and I am waiting for my partner to be patient enough to get the bracket off then try to make it fit without ruining it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 On 1/5/2022 at 3:26 PM, candy_red said: Oil pressure gauge will work excellent with a remote adapter and tbh its the most vital of the two. I have never had oil temp issues back when on ct9 even with light track duty and 1 bar of boost. Anything involving road driving wont cause oil temps above 110 degrees which is what i'd call excessive. If you MUST see oil temp as i said before sandwich adapter is the best bet. I remember i shaved mine just barely on the seal and never leaked over the 6-7 years i was using it. Relocation kits will give you the advantage of easy filter changes multiple sensor locations to choose from and also the ability to maybe later add a cooler. I have used all Mocal items, filter takeoff plate, remote oil filter head, thermostatic sandwich adapter, sandwich adapter for the sensors and a 10-row cooler with all the fittings and braided hose. If i m allowed to i can share the guys i got everything from off ebay. They are based in the UK and they were very helpful to help me sort out the system. Mind you that for this application i did eventually had to grind down the P/S bracket because the design of the takeoff plate wouldn't allow me to shave it like i did with the sandwich adapter, although only barely at the base as you can see in the picture below. This is the last resort and to be fair the most expensive solution to combine everything. Keep in mind i am running P/S, AC, big turbo bottom mounted and all that on a Yaris which has less space than the Starlet up front. Excuse me for the lengthy post! Thank you for the explanation. How much does this kit cost and how much did you have to work on the bracket to make it fit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 On 12/27/2021 at 5:49 PM, akyakapotter said: Hi nope I had to drill a hole in the bracket or the sensor cable was bent to much for my liking imo Cheers nick Hey Nick. Can you confirm which adaptor isI correct for this application? Which oil temp sensor did you use? https://www.ebay.it/itm/OIL-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-SUMP-PLUG-ADAPTOR-FOR-1-8NPT-GAUGE-SENDER-/153224536111?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 On 7/16/2021 at 10:55 AM, akyakapotter said: Turbo pressure I assume your on about the vac lines do this if it's standard will remove the boost restriction in 1st and 2nd gear. Hey thanks for the tip! You mean that by passing the sensor I will have more boost in first and second gear? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 3 hours ago, Frankieflowers said: Hey Nick. Can you confirm which adaptor isI correct for this application? Which oil temp sensor did you use? https://www.ebay.it/itm/OIL-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-SUMP-PLUG-ADAPTOR-FOR-1-8NPT-GAUGE-SENDER-/153224536111?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 That's the one I use for oil temp sensor & water temp sensor Cheers nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 On 7/15/2021 at 1:05 PM, akyakapotter said: I finally did it and it worked. IMG_5694.MOV Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 Looks tidy glad you finally got it sorted. Cheers nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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