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wow makes me wanna really get my ass into gear and paint my engine been thinking about it for ages :)

great build thread flying the flag for n/a dude.....

much benefit from having oil catch can and those insulators on manifold and throttle body? as ive thought about these options too...

but overall one of the better build threads mate nice work!!!

steve.

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wow makes me wanna really get my ass into gear and paint my engine been thinking about it for ages :)

great build thread flying the flag for n/a dude.....

much benefit from having oil catch can and those insulators on manifold and throttle body? as ive thought about these options too...

but overall one of the better build threads mate nice work!!!

steve.

Thanks mate that's really nice of you!

As for the carch can and insulators, every little helps. lol The catch can works but it's never gonna collect the same ammount as one fitted to a turbo because n/a's don't blow as much by the rings. The manifold does stay cooler on short drives but still does become heat soaked on long blasts.

Gavin

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Thanks mate that's really nice of you!

As for the carch can and insulators, every little helps. lol The catch can works but it's never gonna collect the same ammount as one fitted to a turbo because n/a's don't blow as much by the rings. The manifold does stay cooler on short drives but still does become heat soaked on long blasts.

Gavin

very true mate ive been thinkin about it as like u say every little helps and they look cool as fook too haha

and true dude where did u get catch can from??

thanks dude ste :)

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all the turbo engine i am pulling apart are suffering with oil starvation on the outer edge, almost showing signs of radius ride. its caused by the main and big end pins being drilled thn machined, i have found big benafits to tapering the oil drilling that feed the shells also remove the sharp edges, a ported head gives great gains to this motor.

chris

i hear u on the money.

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very true mate ive been thinkin about it as like u say every little helps and they look cool as fook too haha

and true dude where did u get catch can from??

thanks dude ste :)

I made the catch can, pics are somewhere in here. I'm working on a new lightweight one made from chemical and heat resistant fibreglass, so this one might be for sale in a month or two!

Gavin

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I made the catch can, pics are somewhere in here. I'm working on a new lightweight one made from chemical and heat resistant fibreglass, so this one might be for sale in a month or two!

Gavin

good work man!!! wish i had somewhere to have a go at stuff like that we got lathes etc @ work but theyy a bit funny bout peope using them lol where does it attach to breather pipes on mainfold and rocker cover??

mmmmmmmmm :) i may be tempted by this haha

ste

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all the turbo engine i am pulling apart are suffering with oil starvation on the outer edge, almost showing signs of radius ride. its caused by the main and big end pins being drilled thn machined, i have found big benafits to tapering the oil drilling that feed the shells also remove the sharp edges, a ported head gives great gains to this motor.

chris

i hear u on the money.

If that's true I had better think again about running an oil-to-water cooler and an oil-to-air cooler because of the pressure drop(s). What do you think Chris?

good work man!!! wish i had somewhere to have a go at stuff like that we got lathes etc @ work but theyy a bit funny bout peope using them lol where does it attach to breather pipes on mainfold and rocker cover??

mmmmmmmmm :) i may be tempted by this haha

ste

Yeah mate one line runs from the valve cover to the can and the other runs from the can to the intake manifold. Like this manifold vacuum pulls the oil and water vapour/blow by gases from the valve cover to the manifold but the can catches it before it gets there.

One word, amazing!

Cheers Bud

Gavin

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That is some amazing skills dude, i wish i had the know how on how to make that fibreglass parts. Your attention is cracking dude!

As Sparky says it is inspiring!

Thank you very much.

If you or anyone else wants to know anything about the things in this thread or anything else for that matter, just ask! I will try my very best to help and advise you. I can do wood work and basic electronics as well! People can PM me if they would prefer.

Gavin

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just shim up the presure relif valve its located on the under side of the block with sump off, to bring back any lost presure mate.

chris.

check out redz11 build + old build i tuned that 1, raffa engine i am in the process of modding, rayan langs will be the pinical of 4e tunning keep an eye on that, as for me i have a corrola i am getting track ready, thinking of going 5e thw and a black v that will just be for shows but will be running around 160-80hp no more. i'm struggling for time to get on my own motors.

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just shim up the presure relif valve its located on the under side of the block with sump off, to bring back any lost presure mate.

chris.

check out redz11 build + old build i tuned that 1, raffa engine i am in the process of modding, rayan langs will be the pinical of 4e tunning keep an eye on that, as for me i have a corrola i am getting track ready, thinking of going 5e thw and a black v that will just be for shows but will be running around 160-80hp no more. i'm struggling for time to get on my own motors.

I thought the oil pressure relief valve only controlled the maximum pressure the system is allowed to reach? Therefore shimming it would only change the maximum pressure.

or

Does it start to open at a lower pressure and constantly bleed a little pressure/oil off?

I guess i'll have to find out, somehow!

Gavin

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it regulates constantly at peak presure but normaly around 3k rpm mark which is wer the presure needs to be at low down rpm starting to build up ready for mid to high end rpms. so yes it regulates full presure but u hit that very quick on most engines. how old are u mate just out of interest.

chris.

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Absolutely love the attention to detail mate and the neatness of the bay!! colour scheme is mint. Keep it up dude

Thank you bud and I will do!

it regulates constantly at peak presure but normaly around 3k rpm mark which is wer the presure needs to be at low down rpm starting to build up ready for mid to high end rpms. so yes it regulates full presure but u hit that very quick on most engines. how old are u mate just out of interest.

chris.

Thought so, I guessed peak pressure would be at about 3k. That all makes sense now! I'm 28 mate.

Do you have the part number and price for the rear quater panel?

I'll try and dig it out for you, I'm sure I still have the paperwork somewhere. They aint cheap!

Gavin

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its just under around 2.7k it hits peak but its not just a on off switch so u will find that it starts to regulate presure right away, slowly opening the valve as it forces the spring back so any adjustment of the presure relif valve will affect oil presure as low as idle, but different on cold start on this engine, oil has tobe up to temp to check.

chris

i would have put the catch can on the other pipe as it is this 1 that fouls the TB with oil. but a very tidy job u have done.

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its just under around 2.7k it hits peak but its not just a on off switch so u will find that it starts to regulate presure right away, slowly opening the valve as it forces the spring back so any adjustment of the presure relif valve will affect oil presure as low as idle, but different on cold start on this engine, oil has tobe up to temp to check.

chris

i would have put the catch can on the other pipe as it is this 1 that fouls the TB with oil. but a very tidy job u have done.

I did think about using the other one because that's the one that gets used when there is no vacuum (most of the time) but I used the other one because the inside of the manifold seemed to have more oil on it than the inside of the throttle body/butterfly. I guess the ideal solution would be to run 2 catch cans but thats not practical. Any thoughts about how to catch the oil/blow by gases from both lines without using 2 cans while still retaining total functionality?

Cheers Chris

Gavin

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I did think about using the other one because that's the one that gets used when there is no vacuum (most of the time) but I used the other one because the inside of the manifold seemed to have more oil on it than the inside of the throttle body/butterfly. I guess the ideal solution would be to run 2 catch cans but thats not practical. Any thoughts about how to catch the oil/blow by gases from both lines without using 2 cans while still retaining total functionality?

Cheers Chris

Gavin

its down to personal preference but the pcv for me is to tight, the valve is very restrictive so i cant see much oil /carbon getting thw into inlet + most inlets i have seen are not very oily, in my opinion fella its the TB that suffers with fouling and this then collects all the dirt that the filter misses out, causing all kinds of throttle respons problems (flat spots), and it is this 1 that is running most of the time and at high chat which is wen crank case gasses are at thr peak.

wat are u thinking of for your ignition side, wat mods u got at present??

a little lube in the inlet runners will act as a aid to help flow as air also suffers from friction on the outer edges wer it contacts the runner walls, known as the boundry layer, the thing to watch out for is if your valve heads are showing signs of carbon build up on the back face this can indeed cause the valve not to flow as it should (but i have never seen this on this engine apart from the exhaust valve, or wen valve stem seals have failed due to high cylinder temps = bad tuning).

chris

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Do you have the part number and price for the rear quater panel?

I'll try and dig it out for you, I'm sure I still have the paperwork somewhere. They aint cheap!

Gavin

This is the drivers side (RH) quarter panel part number for a 1997 sportif: 61601-1C370. (I have seen different numbers for different cars!) Price is £201.01 plus V.A.T. That price may very well have 10% off it too, I can't remember!

amazing attention to detail on this bad boy. sooo wish i had a garage and a runaround to put this kind of attention into my n/a :)

Cheers Ryan. I know what ya mean, it was a nightmare when mine was off the road.

its down to personal preference but the pcv for me is to tight, the valve is very restrictive so i cant see much oil /carbon getting thw into inlet + most inlets i have seen are not very oily, in my opinion fella its the TB that suffers with fouling and this then collects all the dirt that the filter misses out, causing all kinds of throttle respons problems (flat spots), and it is this 1 that is running most of the time and at high chat which is wen crank case gasses are at thr peak.

wat are u thinking of for your ignition side, wat mods u got at present??

a little lube in the inlet runners will act as a aid to help flow as air also suffers from friction on the outer edges wer it contacts the runner walls, known as the boundry layer, the thing to watch out for is if your valve heads are showing signs of carbon build up on the back face this can indeed cause the valve not to flow as it should (but i have never seen this on this engine apart from the exhaust valve, or wen valve stem seals have failed due to high cylinder temps = bad tuning).

chris

I will think about swapping the catch can over!

I am probably gonna run an MSD 6A for ignition, it's the only thing I can find that's not too expensive. I too have looked into modifying the distributor cap for an external coil.

It's hard to say what mods are on it at the minute as I really can't remember. lol Some mods are fitted and some aren't. But below is a list of mods that have been or will be fitted by the time i'm done this year. In about 4 months, I hope!

Engine...

EP82 JDM Gi 4E-FE (Gen 1) (Different Inlet Manifold, Camshafts, Valve Springs, Crankshaft and Connecting Rods. Pink Injectors and a Baffled Sump) Fully Rebuilt with ALL NEW Genuine Toyota Sensors, Gaskets and Seals, Bearings/Shells, Piston Rings, Water and Oil Pumps, Timing Belt Kit, Distributor Cap and Rotor Arm, Flywheel, Engine Mounts, Headbolts, Locating Pins, Pegs and Dowels.

TRD 0.6MM Metal Head Gasket

Magnetic Sump Plug

C J Performance Lightweight Alternator, Water Pump and Power Steering Pump Pulleys

C J Performance Lightweight Adjustable Cam Gear

All Stainless Steel Nuts and Bolts Except Critical Locations

Intake System...

Carina E 50mm Throttle Body

Custom Fibreglass Induction System with Cold Air Feed

Custom Fibreglass Catch Tank

-6 Earls Hose and Fittings

ITG Maxogen Air Filter

Custom Teflon Throttle Body Insulator

Custom Teflon Inlet Manifold Insulator

Exhaust System...

Corolla 4-2-1 Exhaust Manifold

Glanza S Back Box

Heat Wrapped Downpipe

Oil System...

Mocal Oil Filter Relocator

Mocal 10 Row Oil-to-Air Cooler

Mocal Oil Thermostat

Laminova Oil-to-Water Cooler

TRD Oil Filter

-10 Speedflow Hose and Fittings

Cooling System...

Half Size Civic Radiator

Slimline Radiator Fan

Custom Fibreglass Fan Shroud

Custom Water Swirl Pot incorporating a Constant Bleed System

TRD Rad Cap

TRD Low Temp Thermostat

Samco Hoses

Fuel System...

Custom Fuel Rail

Fuelab Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator

Fuelab Fuel Filter

-6 Earls Hose and Fittings

Ignition System...

MSD Digital 6A Ignition System

Ultra Blue Point Silicone Ignition Leads

TRD Grade 7 Spark Plugs

Drivetrain...

Custom Quick Change Gear Shifter

Polyurethane Gear Linkage Bushes

Electronics

Gen 1 88HP Corolla ECU

Custom Starter, Alternator and Power Cables

Custom Earthing Cables

AEM Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

Stack Pro Exhaust Gas Temperature, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temperature, Water Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges

Some time in the future, I hope...

Nitrous Oxide

There is probably some things missing from the lists.

Gavin

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just did a sex wee??.

lok at the fc 2000 analog with a c4 coil will be much easyer to fit and is cap discharge and also multi spark duration (MSD) the 3000 is digital and is worth that did more the msd 6a is analog but thr coil packs are duck all on the c4 (wen running this coil open up your spark gap and make sure your ingnition timing is bang on it realy does kick anus. (had a head gasket go on a track nova once and the ignition system was that good that the water squirting into the cylinder caused a super charging effect and it never missed a beat, u could watch the exspantion tank empty and expand like a baloon on aceleration lov um)

jacobs electronics mate is wer i shop.

chris

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just did a sex wee??.

lok at the fc 2000 analog with a c4 coil will be much easyer to fit and is cap discharge and also multi spark duration (MSD) the 3000 is digital and is worth that did more the msd 6a is analog but thr coil packs are duck all on the c4 (wen running this coil open up your spark gap and make sure your ingnition timing is bang on it realy does kick anus. (had a head gasket go on a track nova once and the ignition system was that good that the water squirting into the cylinder caused a super charging effect and it never missed a beat, u could watch the exspantion tank empty and expand like a baloon on aceleration lov um)

jacobs electronics mate is wer i shop.

chris

Yeah it should be good when I get it done.

I'll do some more research but I think the Fire Control 2000 and 3000 is out of my price range.

Cheers Chris

Gavin

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  • 1 month later...

Now that I have ordered most of the parts I'm gonna need it's time for a little update on the parts I've already been collecting over the past few months.

Chemically Cleaned Corolla 4-2-1 Exhaust Manifold. Threaded for E.G.T Gauge.

SDC11579.thumb.JPG.cc15d9a1e7eef60132820ee4577aefd2.JPGSDC11580.thumb.JPG.b41337347572373c0690ae8ccf044ef2.JPGSDC11582.thumb.JPG.becef77d6ad96a9fb19cdc6b9db9bef1.JPG

 

Painted Mocal Oil Cooler

SDC11586.thumb.JPG.d9522f4a50c916ad2a503d8259af39eb.JPG

 

Turbo Thermostst Housing (Used to supply water to the oil-to-water oil cooler using what would of been the turbo water lines)

SDC11587.thumb.JPG.43958b3bc3d63399dc4bb6c2cfce8786.JPG

 

Civic Half Size Radiator

SDC11588.thumb.JPG.487c6f318ff45ee2464ae36e83e33153.JPG

 

1 of 3 Stack Carbon Gauge Pods

SDC11590.thumb.JPG.8d6f87f0d6b105ae447e8cf5e1108802.JPG

 

Glanza S Back Box (I didn't know they were made from stainless steel! Bonus!)

SDC11601.thumb.JPG.51fd1765f81a7953ee8b40d84ac51fe3.JPGSDC11602.thumb.JPG.ae72f79f2e7026f044867a7cb2d90f39.JPG

 

Restored Headlight Protectors

SDC11617.thumb.JPG.26ef8d4c25ac0f50ed142a33d69723ee.JPG

 

New Door, Boot and Window Seals and Weatherstrips

SDC11678.thumb.JPG.1f8d382bc69aa70bf77924f0277d04fa.JPG

 

Corolla Gen 1 88HP ECU

SDC11676.thumb.JPG.706950d823796cac3208179cc6691c60.JPG

 

More to come in a few weeks!

Gavin

Edited by enzo_e492901
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