Russleh Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 as above. when my bottom end is built ill need to swap the head off my other engine onto it so is swapping the headbolts essensial when doing this ? thanks Russell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ktl Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 always replace headbolts when they are removed. there only 40bucks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Russleh Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 40 quid ontop of everythin else i have to buy is alot but i suppose ill have too lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ktl Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 think about it dude, you rebuild your engine with brand new bits and leave out the headbolts. you drive the car around and find out that the headbolts are not doing there job due to being weak. another new headgasket, and more hours for you sir lol.its annoying paying out more then you want to but it will save you money in the long run. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riko666 Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 they HAVE to be replaced - they're torqued to yield, i.e. they're actually torqued to the point of being stretched slightly, so don't take the chance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Russleh Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 ill be buying them then lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ray0098 Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 wot tool do u need to do them up i was told a 9mm spline key is that right and where can i get one from Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie ryan Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 do arp uprated ones have to be replaced or can you re use them too? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Evans Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 you can re-use head bolts, I've just re-used mine but they were only in for like 600miles.Autodata will tell you that they do NOT need to be replaced.as above if there that bad then yeah Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GAZ@A&G_TUNING Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 anwser is NO, but what sort of build are ya doing, the ARP are crap, we have snapped to of them putting them in!!!!, not even to the max torque setting!!!!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Evans Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 I thought ARP bolts were stronger Gaz? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave@TM-Developments.com Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 ARP bolts are fine if fitted properly. We have used many sets with no problems whatsoever Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GAZ@A&G_TUNING Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 whats the special way to fit them then dave? pretty basic stuff, and when you can undo the broken part with your hand you do have to wonder!!!!!!!!4age head stud it mate if your after proper big power mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave@TM-Developments.com Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 These were fitted by you?? Perhaps you can explain why you shouldn't be able to undo the broken part by hand. In your own words gaz, pretty basic stuff but you seemed to have completely missed your own point Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GTS GAV Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 I gota say i was pritty sapprised when gaz told me about the arp head bolt issue, arp studs and bolts in genral especialy the lp19 are imo the best money can buy.I spoken to many owners of various companys i deal with tim at tb abbey, andy at serious, adrian at fens, no one has ever had one break on them, I've used them on my build with intedid boost pressures of 2.5bar+ and have full faith in themjust thort id add arp's are also fine to re use unless there like the pic abovemaybe a silly question gaz as im sure you did, but did you torque the head up then put it through a head cycle then loosen an then re tighten? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Evans Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 y would you loosen then re-tighten? auto part says use 22nm then 44nm the a 90degree on each Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GTS GAV Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 just what i have always been told to do buy adrian on arp's, i think it was something along the lines of it helps them to settle/seat properlyARP say this in there instructions also, "The studs need to be lubed at the block end as well, tightened hand tight. torque them to spec, loosen them by sequence, an re-torque before use""Then after 10 heat cycles you retorque them again. This is when the engine comes up to full heat, then cools down again. 10x like that. You dont loosen then tighten as done when first fitted, you just torque them down more. You'll find that they back off around 5-10ft-lbs" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dan Evans Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 oh right, never new that, does the same have to be done with standard aswell or not? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GTS GAV Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 oh right, never new that, does the same have to be done with standard aswell or not?no not usualy but just deppends on personal prefrence Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cali-BHC Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 I'm replacing my cylinder head hopefully at the weekend, what is the correct tourque setting for the head bolts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 ARP bolts are fine if fitted properly. We have used many sets with no problems whatsoeverThought as much LOL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GAZ@A&G_TUNING Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 yeah we need to spend a few more hour's reserching on google so we can understand how these bolt's go in right!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
micky boy Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 @ gaz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Danturbo4311 Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 ARP bolts dont have the same torque settings as stock bolts, from memory they are to be tightened in 3 stages equally upto 60ftlbs with ARP lube, I have heard of others having problems with them when fitting, but mine were fine, GTS GAV I no its not what you ment but just to make it clear to other people, dont go loosening off your headbolts, as once theyve been torqued the headgasket has crushed/sealed so last thing you wanna do is cause problems. Also I understand what your saying about retorquing them after a few cycles but I've tried that on stock botls & they didnt tighten anymore, plus it was a bit of hassle as the cams have to come back out again to get the 2 bolts under the cam gears. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Asad Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Dont think i`d ever loosen them tbh....dont think toyota would have had the time to do so either, 14yrs on and its still fine lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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