mech5107 Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 (edited) I always loved the box style starlet, from the time that i was a kid.This ep70 was originaly my grandpas car.The original specs were:XL (base) edition1E engineStandard suspension, brakes, everything.When still being stock, the thermostat got stuck and overheated, damaging the headgasket and the piston rings.I opened it, changed rings, rod bearings, headgaskets and valve seals, but soon it started burning oil again.I did 5000klm this way and at the end it was burning like 1lt of oil in every 70klm Still loved driving and revving the 1E.In that time i fitted k-sport coilovers, full glanza brakes, skyline brake master cylinder, nissan n14 sevro, 14x6 black racing wheels, custom lower control arms bar, custom front and rear strut braces, c-pilar bar a bride brix bucket and nardi steering wheel.The concept is to keep it JDM and sleeper (as possible).Some pics:Then i decided to change the engine to something that was in better state than my 1E and maybe more power.I was lucky and found a complete ep71 turbo, a bit crashed, so i swapped the 2e-telu engine, gearbox, driveshafts and complete wiring. As you see it's more or less stock...Current specs:-Engine:2Ε-TELU - 1300cc - 12valve - CT12 turboRadiator from 1500 diesel ep70Denso IW20 plugsLow Temp theromostatHKS filterHKS Actuator Oldschool HKS BOVHKS EVC3 boost controllerApexi old school turbo timerTRD 1,3bar radiator capMagnetic sump plugENEOS 5-40 Full synthetic oilMagnecor KV85 leadsZEP 60 decatCustom 60mm exhaust without resonators, just a backbox-Transmission:5speed box, unknown typeOpen diff (TRD 1.5way diff is waiting)Aluminum gear selector bushingsQuick Shift custom made and knob made of ertalonExedy Clucth kitTotal 75w90 gearbox oil-Brakes:Starlet Turbo front and rearATE SuperBlue Racing fluidEBC yellow pads front / Mintex rearEBC Grooved discsCustom braided linesSevro Ν14, MC Nissan R33 GT-R 17/16"-Wheels/Tires:Black racing 14x6 et40Spacer 3mm front, 9mm backFalken Ziex 912 185/60/14-Suspension:Ksport coiloverEP71 turbo front strut barCustom rear strut barCustom lower control arms barCustom C-pilar barFront 20mm antiroll bar (EP71 turbo)Adjustable panhard rodWhiteline anti-roll drop linksWhiteline adjustable rear antiroll barWhiteline caster kitSuperpro 34mm front arms bushingsUltra Racing room bar-Interior:Turbo S instruments panelBoost meter Greedy 52mmAEM widebandCheap mp3 FelixNardi classico 350mmBride Brix bucketEP71s interiorDomo-Kun and lego Darth Vader hung from the sun shield-Look:Stock ep70Raised bonnet~4cm lowered"Team EP789.gr" sticker on back doorFuture plans:A haltech stand alone that i have lying aroundAn LSD diff (TRD 1.5way waiting)Custom lcd screen multi gauge for oil temp/press and water temp.Greddy EGT (have it in my desk)Oil cooler with mocal thermostatic adaptor and celica gt4 rad (i had it in my 1E, waiting to be fitted again) Edited February 23, 2013 by mech5107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starbuck Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Nice one. Welcome. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lukew360 Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Looks mint Would like to see some more pictures of this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 Some more pic...The only one from the dash ( i will get a new/better one)My lower arm bar (made it myself, CR-MO 1", tig welded. I can jack the car from this, no problem)Rear strut bar (self made, cr-mo 1", with rod ends directly on top mounts bolts)Some interiorWheels (need refurb, tires look bad, but those Yoko DNA GP were perfect) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Looks awesome Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taggy Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 old skool rules! love the look of yours, sleeper all the way Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Now that the site is back and my account is also re-enabled, i updated the car specs + a recent foto of the engine bay.I couldn't belive how much difference front caster kit and polybushed made to the car handling... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lew777 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 do you mean cr mo 1%?fair play making the braces yourself Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Yes the bars are all 4130 cromoly tubes of 1 inch outside diameter.I'm fortunate enough to be involved in motorsports for the last 8 years, so i have free access to tools and materials Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taggy Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Hey where did you get the caster kit from for this car and the polybushes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 The caster kit is the EP82/91 model. Fits perfect in ep70 arms. The code is klc325 i think.Front polybushes are supperpro, ep82/91. It's the 34mm version. I think the code is 1881 or somethingI can verify the codes, but as i said, it's just the ep82/91 models. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taggy Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 did they make that much of a difference then, what benefits did you notice? Also have you fitted the front anti roll bar? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 First of all, the steering is much more active. Better feeling, a bit heavier (good in my opinion).The understeer is reduced a lot.The noise has been significantly deduced (my old bushing had ~180.000 klm).The general feel of the car is much improved, more informative and active i could say.I had the front bar for some time now. I just added new droplinks. Made some difference, not much.I'd suggest getting a whiteline 22mm or something, but i'm not sure is it will fit the ep7 chassis.I do plan to get a stock gt bar and try...so i let all know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Enzo Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 very interested in the master cylinder and servo mod.how hard was it to do and are u happy with the increased performance? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 All are bolt on, only one brake line had to be bend, but that's easy, without tools.I used the N14 sevro, cause my LHD car has not enough space between the sevro and clutch MC, so i needed something small in diameter but bigger in capacity.After fitting the sevro, the brakes had too much power for my like, so i needed an bigger MC, so to have stiffer pedal and more control, as my car has no abs.I searched the local junk yards and found the R34 GTR that fits. Actually there are 2 versions, one that is 1" piston size and one 1 1/16". There is also the option of Navara that is 15/16"I have enough power, good control, but the first section of the pedal travel is very soft, i think due to the sevro. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Taggy Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Ah yes i put the GT servo in on mine, has to squeeze it in with a hammer mind you lol. I remember you saying that because yours was lhd the master cylinder was in the way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Yes you are correct. I didn't like the idea to hammer the stock GT sevro. If i could, i would just use the full GT setup, sevro, MC, brakes... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Just a small update. After timming belt change (230.000km) complete with seals etc, the car now running an HKS EVC boost controller and an Apexi turbo timer. Also long time ago, i snapped one of the handbrake cable (i'm using turbo brake setup on my axle). The replacement one has a slightly bigger head diameter, so not straight fit.Nothing that an angle grinder can't fix. Hopefully this will be shorted soon and be able to use the truning brake again. Also looking for a fmic core, no longer than ~550mm (total with endcaps) and less than 150mm height and 60mm deep, as the space is very limited. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 Quick update: Measured compression today... pretty happy with the results...1: 172 2: 172 3:165 4:178. Not bad for a 25+ year old engine... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 Done a dyno run today... bit less than expected, but not bad for the age of the engine. 123,3hp@636016kgm@3500 http://s385.photobucket.com/user/mech5107/media/Cars/Starlet/001a.jpg.html'> http://s385.photobucket.com/user/mech5107/media/Cars/Starlet/001.jpg.html'> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 That's actually not bad!Best thing to do with a 2e is try to improve how it breathes, clean up the inlet ports and match the inlet manifold to it, make a new flowed exhaust manifold etc. They're understated engines and in my opinion people are too quick to change to a 4e/5e Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mech5107 Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) I realized that i haven't updated the thread for quite some time... Just about a year ago, the stock TMIC was ditched for a nice FMIC, originally i think is for some GTR.It is of delta-fin type, "Apex-i" like core, and has cast tanks. The pipe work is all custom, stainless 47mm ID. Didn't noticed any lag change... The engine bay looks so much better now Then the car got a Toyota C turbo, originally used on diesel engines, probably corona taxis.The spool time remains the same, it is bolt on to stock dp and manifold and the performance is similar to the ct9 till ~0.8bar, then the C turbo steps ahead of the CT9.Sorry no photo Then i decided to install an old Haltech E6X ecu i had laying around, made a patch loom and used the stock sensors, except the TPS, where a colvern one was used on the stock throttle body.I originaly run stock injection and ignition, 1.1-1.2 bar boost. I then noticed that my injectors were maxed out when on high boost, so installed a set of RX8 360cc injectors. After a retune, the idle now is so much better than stock... I have removed all the idle up soleinoids, just running on the TB by pass for idle. No problem with electric loads etc.Also fuel economy got better, some times getting 6.3L/100km on highway... Then i decided that the frame needs a bit more help so i got the new ultra racing fender bars, specific for the 70 chassis.These made a huge improvement. Feels much more rigid and NVH is significantly reduced. My final upgrade is a set of willwood dynalites on machined Corolla T-Sport discs to 265mmStill using 14" wheels. The brakes barely fit in there. The actuall stoping power isn't improved compared to the turbo brakes with yellowstuff pads, but the pedal feeling is now much improved and that's what i was looking for. The car is now in storage back in Greece, as i'm currently living and working in UK.Not sure what the future will hold, but my plan is to rebuilt it over the next couple of years, add the turbo look, seam weld the chassis and keep it as a classic in my garage, ready for short spirited drives. Edited November 14, 2014 by mech5107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbo Grant Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Coming along nice now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Loving the fact your sticking with a 2et! Good work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 what a rare and different motor.love this.i think that dyno didnt turn out to bad.that car weighs naff all haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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