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Heater air not very hot


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Recently brought a Glanza, I noticed most the time the heater temperature isn't very hot, it is warm but not as you'd expect.

The engine temp is usually below the gauge but does crop up to just over quarter, I'm guessing this could be down to thermostat, although it supposedly recently had one and there is a spare in the boot (brand new). I felt the matrix piping going through the bulk head and they're warm, also it would appear the cooling fan isn't kicking in but I may be wrong I've just never seen it active.

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try bleeding the system. I fixed mine by putting a hose on the bulk head and flushing the shite out from the heater matrix, blows red hot now:) as for your temp gauge make sure the connection for the spade terminal on the thermostat housing is clean if all lese fails try the thermostat. Rad fan run it around then once warm leave it standing for 10-15 mins you should hear the fan kick in.

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Whats procedure for bleeding on starlets, and by putting a hose on your bulkhead what do you mean? I have a faint idea.

Will double check spade connection, I'm thinking the thermostats most likely ok as it is giving warm air so it must be opening, temp gauge is probably ok, it does fluctuate but mainly sits off the dial (cold).

Yeah Jono I was thinking of getting a SARD quarter temp one, I had one in my old starlet. They are a nice £60 though lol.

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By puting a hose on the bulk head he means remove one of the heater matrix pipes from the bulk head then attact a hose to it, then the other from where it joins back onto the engine and put that end in a bucket and pump water through the heater matrix until the water runs clear.

You could try doing it both ways just to try clear any shit that wont go though one way :)

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Yeah what he said sorry i didnt explain as well as i should of. Basically tqake both hoses off that go to the heaer matrix on the bulk head put your hose pipe on one and put some rages near the other to help clear the water, turn hose on and loads of gunk will come out.

and to bleed the car let it get up to temp with the rad cap off and fans on full inside. Keep squeezing the pipes until no air bubble come out. Take it work a short drive to shake any air around the system, let it cool down, take the rad cap off start it up again and check for air bubble and top up as required.

Edited by Broony
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That's what I gathered you meant, ok thanks, I will have a look at doing this in the next few days when I can pop to mothers and use her hose, I don't have one at my place. Will have a go with bleeding method tomorrow as I'm not a fan of the cold! Thanks for the info, mch appreciated!

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Right today I had a try with the air lock idea, and it did seem to lose a few bubbles, but couldn't keep the rad cap off long as the level was rising slowly but surely. The temperature gauge would appear to be working, as when I was refueling it did go up and the heaters warmed up with it! But as soon as I got going down went the gauge and temperature of the heater!

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You will get water spilling out of the rad when you bleed it of air, it does make a bit of a mess but its worth it! Literally leave it running for 10-15 mins and it will keep splashing water out, this is usually the air escaping. Keep topping it up with water, if it calms to a pulse Put the cap on. If not put it on anyway , Check the header tank is full then leave to cool for a couple of hours. Recheck header tank (mine usually takes the coolant out of it during cooling) refill header tank and radiator And repeat bleeding process.

Its a pain and it can take several attempts!

The only other thing I found with my car i actually had to take off the pipes to the heater matrix, from the engine and fill it up separately! Again it makes a mess but my heaters werent working and now they work a treat

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Yes Corofin, sounds to be thermostat at play here, think it's possibly failed in a funny position? As it's not over heating, which I guess is the main thing. It did come with a spare so I'm going to test that later this evening to make sure that's ok although it is boxed and appears to have been boxed all it's life. Then I'll fit that and report back, many thanks!

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Yes Corofin, sounds to be thermostat at play here, think it's possibly failed in a funny position? As it's not over heating, which I guess is the main thing. It did come with a spare so I'm going to test that later this evening to make sure that's ok although it is boxed and appears to have been boxed all it's life. Then I'll fit that and report back, many thanks!

its probably stuck open so.. just buy a new one, very cheap and cheaper if you get a corolla 4EFE one, the only difference is the price :thumbsup:

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