Dave D Glanza V Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 fitted a ogura clutch and a diff to my car, now the biting point is so low i have to press the clutch redicously hard right up to the floor pan and this only just disingadges it to select a gear, also when i do this there a horrible rattling noise, anyone had any problems like this and how did you get over it, any help much appriciated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sefton-EP91 Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 (edited) Did you bleed the system after fitting?Also did you line the clutch with lining tool when fitting? Edited December 30, 2012 by Sefton-EP91 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave D Glanza V Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 had a machanic there with me who fitted it while i did other bits, no i didnt bleed anything, i take it you mean the clutch fluid? have no idea what a lining tool is but will ask when he re-opens, he seemed to think the noise was ok and just said that what a paddle clutch sounds like which i thought was bollocks, and said i needed to get a longer clutch rod but couldnt see why it worked fine before Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 You will probably need a different release bearing for the paddle clutch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 The clutch should have been installed using an alignment tool. Also the clutch should have been bled, ie, pumping the clutch pedal, replacing fluid etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilGT93 Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 i have the same problem with my blitz clutch , its down to the relese bearing not reaching properly just need time to fit the new release bearing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liam_D Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 The rattling is normal mate. My blitz does this as it isn't a rattle surpressed release bearing. Rattle surpressed ones are avalible but they are more money. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave D Glanza V Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 (edited) i would have thought that the clutch was fitted using a allignment tool hes changed my clutch before and was fine and was a good garage, i just unbolted the slave cylinder and tucked it to one side so didnt think i would have to replace the fluid doing this? ah that makes sense as we used the release bearing that was already in as i didnt have a new one for the ogura, does anyone know where an what do i need for this rattle surpressed release bearing? also thanks very much for your help so far guys Edited December 30, 2012 by Dave D Glanza V Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 You could try, td or idworkz for the release bearing, or rhd japan but might be expensive.Its always advisable to replace the clutch fluid but not necessary if you haven't undone the line, you will find when you replace it that its probably blackish in colour if its not been replaced in a while. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave D Glanza V Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 ok thanks will email one and find out, yeah all my fluids have been changed so its all good Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilGT93 Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 if you get one mate make sure it includes the correct spacer i bought one from fensport for the blitz active and it would never of worked with what they sent me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave D Glanza V Posted December 31, 2012 Author Share Posted December 31, 2012 will bear that in mind tbh i dont really know exactly what i need but sure if i explain to a trader they will of come accross it before Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Weyro Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 a temporary solution could be to lengthen the adjuster on the clutch pedal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave D Glanza V Posted December 31, 2012 Author Share Posted December 31, 2012 will have a look at that tomorrow anythings worth a try Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Try adjusting the clutch pedal first. Some clutches do require a longer slave rod to fully disengage the clutch although it would be the first I have heard of on the ogura/blitz units. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
_shaun_ Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) shorty had the same issue post 275 shows the difference/>http://www.ukstarletowners.com/index.php?showtopic=43813&st=270 Edited December 31, 2012 by _shaun_ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave D Glanza V Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 cheers shaun Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shorty Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Right heres the thing, blitz and orc use a different bearing to oem, the bearing is easy to get and is about 50quid BUT the base/sadle of the unit is almost impossable to obtain i bought a whole second kit of a mate just for the bearing! And base mount.However there are options to make the oem release bearing work. kieth at zisco said the pack out the fork where the clutch piston sits againt it on the top of the bell housing for the gear box with washers and it works fine, i personaly dont like the idea as although theres a constant preasure on the off chance one slips off over a large bump your back to square one and it wont be nice when or if it happened. alternativly a small bracket of say 2-3mm steel could easily be made to move the slave cylinder (piston) a few mm closer to the fork, this will take up the slack and give you the stock biting point back i strongly sugest this option and estimate it will take about 20-30mins to make one suited for the job. Make sure you keep the piston as alighned as posible to the fork as you dont want to cuase strain to it. but its a simple solution to a pain in the arse issue!! Me and turbo grant looked at this option and grant sys it will work (so it will lol) as he knows his shit about cars being a hell of a good mechanic etc.As for the rattle its the loose pressure ring insidde the kit being released when the clutch is depressed and is 100% normal on both kits unless you buy the silent type which is rated slightly less in clamp force i belive. i love the sound as its savage haha.Any issues or questions pm me and ill help as best i can ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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