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Strange Misfire Problem


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1 hour ago, Frankieflowers said:

Hey guys. I received the new distributor cap, rotor, NGK wires and dust cat seal from Japan. I already change the small gasket on the cam when we opened the engine. Although there is still a small leak in the distributor cap. I read around that it might be the bearing or the bearing ceiling gasket. It could be leaking around the shaft. we did take care of putting ceiling paste in the proper position to avoid it but it still leaks. This is why I also bought a new bearing. I haven’t found information about a distributor regeneration on this model. Do you guys have experience of putting one apart and replacing these parts for regeneration?

I also received the new TPS. I would like a piece of advice to change it. I understand the procedure about the position and electric check that has been done and I would like to know if the throttle has to be unbolted to do the job. 
 

if I am correct, the four pin TPS reads from 0 to 100 with its fader. There is no switch. The three pin TPS works differently but that is not my case. 

I'm sure the 4 pin tps does have an idle contact (see diagram a few post up) then it is a variable resistance sensor when it's off idle. It needs to be set up with feeler gauges.

Ask Jay if he will look in the official Toyota manual for the 4efte auto procedure.

The access to the TPS screws is limited (might be easier in the corolla). You can try to loosen them as it is on the car. From my experience the screws will have corroded into the throttle body and you will have difficulty turning them. Try it and see mate, but don't round them off.

 

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14 hours ago, Claymore said:

I'm sure the 4 pin tps does have an idle contact (see diagram a few post up) then it is a variable resistance sensor when it's off idle. It needs to be set up with feeler gauges.

Ask Jay if he will look in the official Toyota manual for the 4efte auto procedure.

The access to the TPS screws is limited (might be easier in the corolla). You can try to loosen them as it is on the car. From my experience the screws will have corroded into the throttle body and you will have difficulty turning them. Try it and see mate, but don't round them off.

 

Thank you  I managed to get the screws off. I replaced the sensor. at first it was off idle position but then I moved it just enough to work properly without getting idle up %. It works fine. I still haven’t find out why I feel that blowing noise wind the turbo gets on boost and I still feel that the timing isn’t perfect. Tomorrow I will bring the car to my partners shop to replace the distributor rotor and cover. I will try to replace the bearing that I bought with the one side ceiling that should stop oil from leaking in without having to replace the original rubber gasket (that isn’t mentioned anywhere). @Jay

if the mechanics work fine after all, if the intercooler system is working fine as before, then what should be making that glowing noise when boost reaches its top pressure? I can’t wait to figure out what happened to the timing and I hope to solve these issues as soon as possible. 

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F0E455D3-3739-4370-B595-F8E862F4499A.thumb.jpeg.a8be1d45eea7ca6043ce7dfeb405954c.jpegE64179F4-37F4-4C21-AD2D-2B8638954588.thumb.jpeg.89dc74dc87dfe42e5d1b5b154df9ed0c.jpeg4360790D-F351-4BEF-AE34-4328759B951A.thumb.jpeg.0172dc0ed8bd273dda0348ea5035d8e8.jpegE393A578-EC71-44A5-BF4F-474420193824.thumb.jpeg.d81e786bd74d84a2b3b7119fea16798a.jpegFECB5D78-9702-41EA-B379-D85CC584ED23.thumb.jpeg.07edf3f3df64ba2c6ec21c520b3c9d44.jpegToday we pulled out the distributor and we opened it to replace the bearing. Unfortunately I did not find any replacement kit on the Internet (besides the 2 gaskets, rotor and cap) and it is impossible to find the internal Teflon oil gasket. I figured it out opening it. The Toyota manual doesn’t show what is inside the mechanism. Your video was helpful but the Starlet distributor is different. The magnets moved so thanks to the manual I’ve managed to distance the magnets and get get back in to nominal  measures. I’m glad it worked out. . 

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22 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Have you solved the issue. 

We managed to refurbish the distributor. It works very well. The only thing that I still don’t understand is why the timing set to 10° doesn’t go to zero when taking the diagnostic bridge off. It goes the other way around 15° instead  

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19 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

We managed to refurbish the distributor. It works very well. The only thing that I still don’t understand is why the timing set to 10° doesn’t go to zero when taking the diagnostic bridge off. It goes the other way around 15° instead  

So when you unlock the timing (by removing the bridge) your saying it doesn’t go to 0?

If so that’s normal, most engines idle at 15-20 deg 

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1 hour ago, RobSR said:

So when you unlock the timing (by removing the bridge) your saying it doesn’t go to 0?

If so that’s normal, most engines idle at 15-20 deg 

Exactly. What is weird is that when we closed the engine after fixing the head we did the procedure and the timing went from 10 to 0° when taking the bridge off. Of course we never tried this procedure before so I don’t know if it was doing it before but after that experiment it kept going from 10 to 13 or 15°. I thought it was wrong because I read that it shouldn’t go higher when on idle. If you say it is normal I will stop worrying.

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Another thing I still haven’t figure it out is that before we took the cylinder head off for repairmen the BOV setting was perfect. No flutter noise whatsoever. But after we put the engine back together and tested the car I could hear the flutter noise. So I registered the BOV spring pre-compression to fix it but even if I opened it as much as I could it still does the flutter noise. It doesn’t do it fully. It does it for a little bit before the BOV valve opens. I can’t figure out how to solve this.  Edited by Frankieflowers
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i opened the distributor to stop the oil leak and discovered the teflon seal inside. It needs to be replaced but there is no information about it and no OEM on the parts website. Why?

I changed both gaskets but obviously the oil gets through the dented arm all the way in the rotor box. Please help.

 

Edited by Frankieflowers
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10 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

i opened the distributor to stop the oil leak and discovered the teflon seal inside. It needs to be replaced but there is no information about it and no OEM on the parts website. Why?

I changed both gaskets but obviously the oil gets through the dented arm all the way in the rotor box. Please help.

 

Do you have photographs of the teflon seal? Any measurements? You might be able to find a similar seal or have a custom one made.

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5 hours ago, Claymore said:

Do you have photographs of the teflon seal? Any measurements? You might be able to find a similar seal or have a custom one made.

I was so upset that I didn’t take pictures and measures. My partner was helping me out so we put it back together. Let’s say we were hoping it would stop leaking for a bit...

I will wait that some of you guys will open a distributor and measure it for me because taking it apart means moving the magnets and needing to reposition them properly. Not a 20 minute job. 

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On 3/29/2022 at 3:20 PM, Sam44 said:

Having a catch up now. 

I am trying to figure out how to make the ep91 air conditioning work with the Corolla AC onboard computer. So I have the custom Starlet compressor with the Corolla AC loom that needs to be adapted. Apparently the Corolla COMPRESSOR has five wires compared to the three wires on the Starlet. The extra wires should control the LIMITER RPM CUR. It should also control the second fan.  I should choose the correct wires to make the compressor work with the ECU. If I could find a diagram or some help maybe I could make it work 
my brother help me a little bit to figure out communication from the ep91  ECU to the Corolla AC computer which is the same has the Starlet. What has to be understood is how to connect Starlet compressor to the Corolla air conditioning Loom that goes to the AC computer. Starlet compressor has less wires compared to the Corolla E11 4efe. 
I need the starlet wiring diagram to compare them. I don’t know where to find it. The only ones I have are for the mechanic part that I already used for the swap. 

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