changing the timing belt?

[Duduglanza]

Do i need to time the engine again or just remove the belt and replacem

[H_D]

Make a small mark with tip-ex on the cam gears where they meet before removing the belt and make sure the marks are in the same position when putting the new belt on.

Its always worth checking the timing again too.

[Duduglanza]

But if you dont turn the engine.. nothing will move.. right?

[_shaun_]

If u don't turn the engine nothing should move but its better to take 2 seconds to mark it just incase because if it moves slightly your gonna make the job 10 times harder.

[H_D]

always check the timing again as i said before,

No harm in double checking for piece of mind - timing is literally a 1-2 minute job.

The slightest movement will effect the timing.

[Duduglanza]

Ok thanks guys

[rwdrev]

always spin the engine over by hand once fitted and make sure the lines line up again, if they dont, the timing needs adjusted again, took me a few attempts at the 5e to get it right, but for some reason i always got the 4e's bang on first time. make sure everthing is tight aswell, dont want the belt to fly off.

[Calum122]

Hello,

I don't want to start a new thread cause there is lots of information. I just want to know what quality parts people have been using. I'm thinking about buying the parts from id-workz. Will this be okay for belts and the pump or will I need to go Genuine? I've worked on some vehicles where for some parts you have to go genuine.

Also what specialist tools will I need.

And does anyone have a link to the correct corolla engine Haynes. Will the 97-01 corolla Haynes be okay. Has the 1.3 engine on the front. I take it that is the 4efe non turbo engine. Any help would really be appreciated. Lots of history with this new car, no cam belt receipts so that is on my next list.

[rwdrev]

think you only need from memory, a 19,12 and 10mm socket and mayb tipex. dead easy job. bit fiddly in the bay, but it dont take too long to do. idworkz stuff will be fine. plenty of threads for timing makrs, just use the search bar

[Calum122]

I've been raping the search bar Lmao!

Don't you need something to lock the crankshaft? I've never done a cam belt. I've rebuilt lots of two stroke engines, still ramping about my first ever two smoke build, but never touched 4 strokes. I'm going to do the cam belt with my brother. He's done them before. I would take it to a garage but I can't see how they would want to do a better job than me. Just the way I am with things. I've been to some garages where they are really passionate about bikes so am happy to use them. But this being my first car I am yet to build up a relationship with any mechanics. Bikes are easy though to be fair.

I've got a few things on my watch list for this. Want to get this done asap so I can drive it around all honky dory. As said lots of history, just bought the car and the history for the last two years has been scarce. So I want to cover everything before I drive it daily. Clutch is going to be the next thing but again, meh about sending it to a garage.

Thanks for the swift reply. I will keep using the search button. Very good tuts on here that I've been reading. Really good forum.

[daniel_g]

Heres an old guide written on TGTT

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Timing+belt+and+water+pump+replacement

Ideally you need an impact gun to remove the crank pulley bolt. Sticking the car in gear can sometimes help though.

[Calum122]

Yeah read that one. I imagine it is one of those things that will be clearer when you're doing it yourself.

Nobody bother with the Corolla Haynes then lmao.

[rwdrev]

remove the positive battery lead

jack the car up, (drivers side front only and use stands)

remove the plastic splash gaurds (if they have managed to stay on)

slacken off/remove steering/air con belt

remove alternator belt.

remove top cover, put in gear and spin the wheel till the 4e mark on the cam wheel lines up with a dot on the head (look through the pin hole on the cam gear, then there is a corresponding dot on the head on the right hand side of the cam bolt)

if no rattle gun, put in gear, some1 on the brakes and remove crank bolt

plenty of wd40 and a puller ( if no puller, 2 small pry bars and be very careful, these can either fall off or be stuck like a b*stard)

then remove bottom half of the cover, can be abit fiddly to remove, but is do-able

by which time the belt is clearly visible, take a picture for fitting the new 1. (sometimes comes in very handy)

just double check the slot on the bottom crank pulley lines up with a very small mark on the face of the oil pump.

if all is correct then proceed,

remove the small dished washer (take note of the way the washer is)

jack under the sump and remove the engine mount

take off the small spring with some needle nose pliers.

get a 12mm socket and romove the tensioner from the block.

the belt should come off.

remove the idler.

job half done, this next bit is fiddly.

fit the top right idler

get the belt and fit it to the engine so you can read the writing on the belt (how i was told) start at the crank, keeping it tight, round the idler, then upto the cam, keep this as tight as poss.

then fit the idler and fit the bolt loosly so it dont fall off

fit the spring again to take up the tension and then tightn the bolt.

spin the engine over 2 revolutions buy hand to make sure the timing marks line up again.if not, adjust and check again.

refit everything and hey presto

thats how i do it, works spot on every time

just noticed thats basically what cats post was.

Edited September 8, 2014 by rwdrev