patman Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 hello again obviously went ahead and brought this gauge to measure the crank diameter etc on my engine rebuild........ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Linear-electronic-digital-outside-micrometer-25-50-/321539792529?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item4add43de91 now its a case of how to set it, I presume you set it with the little 25mm block you get with it, so it would be closing the gap as much as possible, then putting the little 25mm block you get with it once the block is in and holding you set the gauge to 25mm then take the 25mm block out and take it from there when measuring the crankshaft journals? Thanks Pat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 (edited) it will tel you how to exactly in your book you got with it make sure when calibrating her that the contact points are clear of any oills etc etc and yes you use the 25mm extension to calibrate and lock her till the next calibrate take really good care of the calibrate pin dont ever drop it and dont scratch it Edited October 19, 2014 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 hey patman do you till have old bearings lying around ??? its a good base to practise on to get the hang of her and see if you get the same measurements Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 I do mate I have the 0.25 acl bearings from the other crank and still have the standard bearings from the crank I'm using but them ones are not oem ones, I was gonna use the telescopic gauges to measure inside the rod bores then put that in the micrometer and use the micro meter on all crank journals but there is a 25mm gap on that micrometer hence why I wasn't sure if you set it on the micrometer gauge 25mm, then wind it back to the measurements I need mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 (edited) yep thats the way to do it i just mentioned it to try on the bearings so you get the hang of it with the clicks at the end and if the measurements are the same every time etc etc set the tumbler to zero open the locking valve then measure the 25mm unit relock her and make sure if the tumbler is still on zero then you should be good to go just read the book of it might be small bit diferent on your 1 ??? Edited October 19, 2014 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 It's typical Colin mate there was no bloody book with it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) Hello gang this is interesting on the measurements I now KNOW I need std mk 1 for the main bearings.On the big end bearings (rods)I'm getting different sizes to the chart above as it says 43. Something where mine areFrom cambelt sizeBig end 1 39.989mmBig end 2 39.985mmBig end 3 39.986mmBig end 4 39.987mmSo of course there all very near each other but there not in the 43's as it says in the chart above with the big end diameter.I'm guessing you have to measure the inside of the rod bore to get the 43. What you need? Thanks guys (what a pain in the ass)Pat Edited October 20, 2014 by patman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) measure the holes like i said before from block mains and the conrod then the crank journals aaal off them mains and big write them down on paper so i can have a look at them on ere also there is no way them mains are all nr 1 remeasure them From cambelt size crank Big end 1 39.989mm crank journal ( outer )..... / cap hole ( inner ) 42.990 to 43.050 ???? somewhere Big end 2 39.985mm crank journal ( outer )..... / cap hole ( inner ) Big end 3 39.986mm crank journal ( outer )..... / cap hole ( inner ) Big end 4 39.987mm crank journal ( outer )..... / cap hole ( inner ) then you do the exact same for mains inner and outer size !!!!!!!! Edited October 20, 2014 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Am on it thankyou Colin mate 👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 your block main caps ( inner ) will be around 51 somewhere if i remember right Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I just wander in to my local engine shop ODCARS at lunch and have big billy check these things out.I wouldn't know what end of a micrometer to hold lolOr if they even have ends lolPhil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) oooo jeez ^^^^ now we are in trouble - - Edited October 20, 2014 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) My local engineer shop Phil decided to round it all off in hundreds not thousands so he was rounding off the mains to 47mm and the big ends to 40mmHence why I am in this postion now as he oh had the gauges what deal in hundreds not thousands Sorry for the late reply Colin in the end gave it to a very good mechanic friend who's dealt with this stuff before, he texted me at the end of the day quickly to say all the rod holes measured up were all inbetween 43.000mm-43.007mm as gave him the 3 std bearing options for big ends 👍 Edited October 20, 2014 by patman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 ha no bother then let me know how ya get on after Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Will do Colin mate thankyou soooooo much for all the info and input you have given me I'm thinking a lot of other people could benefit from you and this thread too 👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 thanks and no bother anytime Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Butchysr Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I am having this problem too my big end bearings measure to 40mm. But everyone says standard size is 43mm. Does this mean my crank has been reground before ? Karl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 ^^^^^ no mate your getting it wrong !!!!!! the crank lobes/journals FOR the conrods is around 40mm BUT the conrods themselves are around 43mm this equals to 3mm and 1.5mm for each bearing cup/half but you have to measure this in thousands have a read tru the whole thread so u will see wa tools u need Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Butchysr Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Yeah I read through about 3 time after commenting and get it now haha thanks tho mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 no bother if your stuck just pm me im there anytime ha ha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Colin is a superstar at this butchysr, I wish I had patients like him when explaining time and time again 👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amatthews45 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 So patman you just had your bearings done in a nut shell would you just advise to take to someone who has the right mesure tools and get them to do it? I am hoping I can do them with head still on. Been told to remove sump and crank get it reground and polished and same guy can make up the bearings to suit. That sound right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 ^^^^^ highly unlikely the head can stay on , the rod usually gets damaged and neads to come out top end !!!!!! unles your lucky and got to it intime but still neads engine out of car and gearbox off if you want to take out the crank !!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Colin has nailed it mate it is a pain in the ass I know stripping things down, I would like Colin said check everything and take head off, I got another issue at the moment on the main caps they are numbered obviously 1-5 I know the arrow points to the cambelt side but I can't remember if number 1 starts at the cambelt side or the fly wheel/gearbox side? What a pain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amatthews45 Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Well mine isnt that bad but cant know 100% till everything removed. Was going to remove engine anyway to change oil pump and clutch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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