Ollieh17 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Anyone got a 'how to'for moving the battery into the boot? Also a list of all the bits ill need to buy? Done a search but not clear details on how people have done it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aidanep71 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 A battery box a length of power lead to go from the front to the back of the car and a few connectors jo join it all up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 yeah its a simple thing to do.just makesure u rubber grommet the main positive wire goin through bulkhead !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 Do you have an inline fuse or anything like you would have on a sub? Where did you route the positive wire? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 nope on the fuse thing.tried that before and asa u crank the car over to start it the huge demand the engine gives blows fuse straight away.positive is in the side runner plastics as normal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
_shaun_ Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 I've done mine abit differently and overkill.Since I have a side exit I ran the cables down the exhaust tunnel. I have a kill switch on the battery side and a 150 amp fuse on the bay side. Kill switch isn't needed but I'd certainly advise a fuse. I've also used 0 gauge cable and also ran an earth cable to the engine bay into a custom earthing kit. Start cranks alot nicer with the earth done that way. Am sure it was morgey I was speaking to said he had some starter issues when he stuck the battery in the boot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 I'd like to run a fuse, kill switch looks a bit to complicated for me to wire in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 Ive seen a few how tos on the interent use a distrubutor box to stater fusebox etc.would i be right in thinking you could just take the terminal block off the original battery cable. Then use a connector to run extra cable into the boot with a fuse?Shaun, did you earth the battery to the boot, then run a cable back to the bay with the eaething kit attached? Does that replace the original toyota earhs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
_shaun_ Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 I've just removed the battery terminol from the main positive lead it just unbolted from memory then that connects onto the fuse. All the stock starter wiring and fuses are still in place I then got an audio earthing block which takes different sizes of gauge cable and replaces all the stock earths from that. Its pretty much just the same idea as a aftermarket earthing kit but more suited to my set up. And yea its also earthed to the boot from the terminal and also sub wiring Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Mikey is your battery just held in by the battery clamp? I guess two long threaded bars through holes drilled in the boot with nuts on the other end Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 that is indeed the case.holds it just aswell as up front but without a "tray" as such. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Yeah i had earthing problems just running a single lead chassis to battery so ended up linking a series of them to chassis all the way from the engine to the boot. Cranks much stronger than it ever did Quote Link to post Share on other sites
_shaun_ Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Mines held in the same way as mickeys 2 long threaded bars it's rock solid never had any bother with it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glanzadude Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 (edited) I have the battery power cable for sale if you are looking for one. Pm me Edited April 8, 2015 by glanzadude Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I can make a how to if you would like? I'm re shelling my gt and need to swap everything over to the new shell. Good idea with the grommet when passing anything through metal. Don't want the positive shorting out. Also you want the fuse as near to the battery as possible. As for a kill switch they are easy. On mine I could remove the key for the kill switch and the alarm would still work as I wired an in line fuse for the alarm. If you attempted to start it without the key in it would Pop the alarm fuse. As for where to attach the positive in the engine bay I went direct to the starter motor. Leave the original wiring for the original battery but tape it up and hide it, that way your fuse box/alternator wiring is all still intact. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 Its all done now bud. But in sure theres others thst will benefit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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