Jay Grainger Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 So I picked up a Glanza yesterday from Paignton in Cornwall. Its running a 5efe engine with the standard CT9 turbo (running 0.3bar on Max boost as it needs a map)All was well when we started the long drive home, then suddenly the engine started to smell really hot. The overheating warning light came on and the engine refused to keep revving. After letting her cool down I tried turning her over, at which point the engine started sounding more like a tractor than a turbo Toyota...We trailered it home thanks to the RAC (and Rivermead Recovery who are absolute life savers!!!) And now it'll turn over okay. It just sounds extremely rough when its revved and really doesn't sound healthy.Anybody on here had a similar problem who could shed some light? I'm new to the whole JDM/Turbo engine scene so could use a hand lol. Mechanic reckons it could be the Big End or something similar??Any help would be appreciated, I'll try and get some sort of video of it running rough if it'd help diagnosis.I'm super gutted, as the car itself will be great once fixed up, and I refuse to sell it lol.Thanks in advance! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay2ohh Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 If it overheated quite bad, could of done the head gasket in, does it have oem or low temp thermostat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Grainger Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 I believe it's OEM. If the head gasket had gone would it still get compression? Last time a head gasket went on me I couldn't get it turning over lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay2ohh Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 (edited) Compression test, minimum should be 150 across all 4 Edited March 1, 2015 by Jay2ohh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Would that be when engine is cold or warm 150 min? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Grainger Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Update:https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ab_1Wr8iaN4Managed to get video of it earlier turning over and revving. If anyone can have a guess at what could be wrong I'd appreciate it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 You picked up a starlet yesterday and this happens? Why does this keep happening to people go and buy a starlet next thing you know the engines fucked, and that doesn't sound right at all mate I feel for you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 That's not healthy at all bottom end gone have you checked the oil ect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Grainger Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Just had a mechanic come and look... Needs a new block... Gutted lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 thats a pure bearing failure sound gutted for you mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Grainger Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Yeah its a massive shame... Luckily still got a daily beater so just a case of saving up and putting a new engine in her Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I would ask for some money back whoever you brought it off surely must of known something wasn't right, and only runninh at 0.3 bar that's nothing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Grainger Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Yeah gonna track down his number and see if I can get some money back. Apparently he has a spare 4efte engine so might ask for that as a means of compensation Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I think it's disgusting myself mate keeps happening to people Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mart1 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 (edited) Do you know if the person that sold the car to you is a trader, On the side, or was he a genuine private seller? Had they had the car very long, is there anything that you might thing they new the engine was on its way out, you say he has got another engine?, if you don't get anything back from them you should seek professional advice, only problem is if private sell it is hard to get anything back but not impossible all the time.When you buy a used car from a private seller, you don't have the same rights as you do when buying from a dealer. You have no legal right to expect that the car is of satisfactory quality or fit for its purpose, but there is a requirement that it should be 'as described'. Edited March 1, 2015 by mart1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 chances are it was knocking and the previous owner has thrown a new set of shells knowing it would knock later on but thats only a theory ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 big end bearings im affraid these can be repaired as long as it hasn't "thrown a leg outta the bed" as we say basically burst a hole in the block you will no because it will have a gapping hole either at the front or back depending on how hard it was revving when it started knocking as long as its not revved anymore it might be able to be saved long shot i know. the crank will need to be dropped out and so will the shell bearings both big end and small end will need new big end bearings and small and the crank checked for any scores or spun bearings and checked to see if its running true and hasnt got a wobble and lost balance. seen new shell bearings fitted after this happening and went 2 weeks later due to crank having a minnute imbalance lot of work to save the engine that your desicion if its worth it or not. as for running 0.3 bar boost thats nothing i had a glanza v with a naffed actuator and it still pulled 0.5 has it got a hks adjustable actuator fittedi'd say it was set alot higher probably 0.6 - 0.7 and was drove hard and previous owner heard the knock and wound the boost down so it wouldnt boost as hard and knock if you wanted to chance it you could get a 4efe engine the non turbo version came in a corolla/starlet/etc and fit all the turbo stuff onto that engine now you will have to checkthe engine compression wise and if its healthy serviced regulary low mileage not dogged or drove the crap outta ive seen these engines run 0.6 bar boost with no issues on stock gear manifold/ct9 turbo/and top mount intercooler.some have even pushed them to 1.0 bar boost on a td04 turbo with the supporting mods to help them breath and flow better and cause less pressure on the engine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Grainger Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 How much price wise would it be (roughly) to boost the non turbo 4efe?What parts were uprated/different on the 4efe and the 4efte? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) 10 psi on a 4efe block is ok ( ct9 ) cant say for tdo4 pressure wise tho !! but as jdm freak says use a na engine to fix the turbo engine to ue q the only real diference internal is rods/pistons Edited March 2, 2015 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Grainger Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 So is it just a case of buying the 4efe and bolting the CT9 onto it?Sorry if this is a stupid question lol, I'm new to the whole turbo engine thing so it's a steep learning curve haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 How much price wise would it be (roughly) to boost the non turbo 4efe? What parts were uprated/different on the 4efe and the 4efte? you have everything you need apart from a good healthy 4efe engine to put all your parts on its basically swapping everything off the 4efte onto the 4efe so you need to buy a good 4efe lump pull the engine out of the car stick it beside the 4efe and start swapping stuff over small list rough parts to swap over inlet manifold complete fuel rail rocker cover for breathing purposes fit knock sensor at back of block flywheel so 4efe will allow the turbo clutch to be fitted N/a clucth wont last thermostat housing so water lines for turbo are there sump for turbo oil feed return oil filter relocation piece exhaust manifold few other bit i know ive forgot but ya get the general idea.. As for parts difference as colin said its mostly internal low compression pistons slightly bigger rods and slightly different head gasket to allow for different compression ratios Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 there basically identical engines just on is low compression and other is high compression Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Grainger Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 May have found a 4efte bare block, which would answer my prayers immediately lol.If not, I'll look into the 4efe turbo conversion.Anybody know any good remap places down in the south-east? Also how much power you can run through the stock 4efte without too much strain on the internals? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 1 bar mate any more is playing a slots machine if you get that block i would do conrod bearings mate ease of heart incase there old and go in a few months !!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Block here mate http://www.jdm-ep.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=132_137&products_id=594 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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