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HKS FUEL CUT VOLTAGE VALUES DEFENDER VALUES !!!


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spent ages this morning with a clever mind and some select tools I have worked out voktage values of the hks fcd whilstwwired up to a starlet. hope this helps some people out.

please let me add these were done against two types of boost gauge that were in sync and a decent volt meter.



HKS FCD VALUES VOLTAGES

SETTING NO 7
0.70 BAR =3.43V
0.80 BAR =3.57V
0.90 BAR =3.70V
1.00 BAR =3.84V
1.10 BAR =3.94V

SETTING NO 8
(WILL REQUIRE BEST
PART OF 4 BAR FP)
0.70 BAR =3.55V
0.80 BAR =3.69V
0.90 BAR =3.83V
1.00 BAR =3.98V
1.10 BAR =4.12V

SETTING NO 9
0.60 BAR =3.52V
0.70 BAR =3.65V
0.80 BAR =3.83V
0.90 BAR =3.97V
0.95 BAR =4.06V----------------- currently running td04 @.95 with 3.5bar fp
1.00 BAR =4.13V
1.10 BAR =4.28V

SETTING NO 10
0.60 BAR =3.60V
0.70 BAR =3.78V
0.80 BAR =3.97V
0.90 BAR =4.12V
0.95 BAR =4.18V
1.00 BAR =4.29V


FUEL CUT IS 4.20V ON MY CAR BUT PLEASE NOTE MAY VARIE SLIGHTLY STARLET TO STARLET.


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STARLET EP91 STOCK MAP /VALUES

VOLTAGE BOOST (BAR)
4.9V 1.2 B
4.8V 1.1 B
4.6V 1.0 B
4.4V 0.9 B
4.2V 0.8 B b
4.0V 0.7 B o
3.9V 0.6 B o
3.7V 0.5 B s
3.5V 0.4 B t
3.3V 0.3 B
3.1V 0.2 B
2.9V 0.1 B
-------2.7V----------0.0 B-------------------------
2.5V -0.1 B v
2.3V -0.2 B a
2.1V -0.3 B c
1.9V -0.4 B u
1.7V -0.5 B u
1.5V -0.6 B m
1.3V -0.7 B

should help somebody out

Edited by mikey4410
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yeah but thats hugely unlikely.I am running a bar dead on but spikes to 1.05 which is still extremely resonable,but none the less still a "spike".
because of that I run setting 8. BECAUSE OF THIS 8TH SETTING THE FUEL PRESSURE SHOULD BE AROUND 4 BAR TO RUN A BAR OF TURBO PRESSURE

Edited by mikey4410
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  • 3 weeks later...

This is very interesting mate good info, on mine (well as you know it been run in at mo) but before rebuild it went on dyno running 2.4 on sard fpr set to 0.7 bar on the actuator set to 8 on the FCD had the wideband on, as was being dyno'd and came back spot on does that sound good to you

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yeah I guess thats abiut right but why u have a fcd on it and running 0.70 is beyond me.lol

Well 2 things mate 1) the fcd was already on there when I brought it but was originally set to 12

And 2) something I still don't get as can't be right when I was at the dyno bearing in mind I do have supporting mods, fuel pump etc but standard ecu and ct9 my printout was 195.7 BHP which to this day I don't think it's right I did question the fcd aswell and his reply was yes the fcd is safe etc

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Thinking back now Mikey it has to be wrong, I had one of them cheap ebay boost gauges on at the time you know the ones which the needles bounce all over the place and do what they like, whereas he read 0.7 bar on the gauge when in fact it was more like 1 bar or even over as needless to say the turbo went bang about a month after and the engine didn't last much longer after reading your post mate is absolutely fantastic info as you said setting the FPR at 2.4 bar is not enough for 1 bar of boost to me it's all making sense now

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well it all depends on the setting dude.



if your using setting 8 and runnning a bar then yes you would defo need pressure up near 4 bar.



even on setting 9 which is a lesser signal ruinning setting you wouls still prob need to have around 3.5 bar i would GUESS.



the thing with fcds is that the really fudge the signal ALOT and any setting after and lower than 9 really does fudge the signal HEAVILY.



TO GIVE U AN EXAMPLE I CAN RUN 0.70 ON A TD04L WITHOUT A FCD AT LESS PRESSURE THAN STOCK (2.2 BAR) AND STILL BE RICH,YET ON SETTING 8 AND RUNNING A BAR OF BOOST IT NEEDS 4 BAR. THIS IS A HUGE DIFFERENCE AND RUNNING FUEL PRESSURE THAT HIGH ISNT REALLY IDEAL AT ALL.


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I see what your saying mate totally I don't plan on going to 1bar in mine to be honest 0.8 will probably be the max I will go when I put the hks actuator one back on, and set it so I have it to 0.8 on the gauge but then I'm thinking would the FPR be ok at 2.4 bar, (that's what it's set to when engine running warm on idle) can't afford to rebuild another engine, so have to get it right this time, surely running a tad rich is better then running lean? I'm beginning to think the only solution to this is a wideband

Edited by patman
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1 the bar thing was just an example man,and as for fuel pressure u cant guess/hope for the best.



the ONLY option to do it correctly is to get it set on a wideband. as u say there is no way you want to be doing a rebuild anytime soon.



do it properly once and get it right.



widbands are fantastic pieces of kit,they realy are,only £150.


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