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Before I start this, I have another progress thread, but it got messed up when I changed image hosts, so here's a new one..


13 months, it really has been that long since I've actually touched the car, 13 months!

But with the exception of the last month or two, nothing has changed. The engine came back from CAS in Northallerton, March 2016 and it sat waiting to be assembled until about October. Some drama followed, another set of bearings were purchased, and I finally got around to putting the bottom end together just before the new year. I'm not really one for new years resolutions, but a major goal for 2017 is to attend a track day in the car, just one! Baby steps..

So let's start with the work carried out at CAS:

Cylinder Head


Hot pressure test

Clean and dress valves


Cut valve seats

Lap valves




Replace valve stem seals

Set valve clearences



Hot pressure test

Hone cylinders




Check size




Remove old rings

Blast clean


Check ring gaps

Fit rings

Quite the list! Craig found the block wasn't flat, which would be the cause of the second failure. With the engine in bits, it was now up to me to put it back together. Fast forward 8 months, I set to work.





Once the bottom end was built up, it was time to cover it up. This would mean an end to checking and rechecking torque, I'm not nervous to start it, nope. I also fitted a new Toyota oil pump, and refitted the water pump that's done 8 laps of Silverstone.


I caught some heat for not painting the block, that was quickly remedied. Not the best of jobs, but it'll do. It's never going to be a show and shine car, ever.



You'll notice the engine is no longer indoors. I built the bottom end in my office at home, which is on the first floor. I was confident I could carry the bottom end down a flight of stairs by myself, not sure I'd manage it with a head and other ancillaries attached.


I fitted up the Athena MLS head gasket, and started to fit the head. I ran into a problem with some of the head bolt holes. In the end I fashioned a thread chaser out of an old head bolt to help clean the threads up.


With the threads nice and clean, it was finally time to fit the head



Finally, it was time to wrestle the cam belt into place and make sure things were all timed up nicely


Edited by TimD

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With the engine mostly built, it's time to start fitting ancillaries, and checking things for size. The first thing I did was give everything a good scrub with Gunk and a Atlasta brush. I didn't get any photos of this process, it was dark and drizzling with rain, I just wanted to get on with it!

After 24 hours to dry out in front of a radiator it was time to start fitting things up. Here you can see the inlet manifold which being honest looks much better in photos than it does in person, but it'll do.


I also got around to refitting the oil filter housing after it had a good clean, and oh yeh, the new turbo setup too.


A few questions have arisen from this evening, one is what I'm going to do with the oil filter/cooler setup. Previously I had a remote filter setup, I was hoping to do away with it, but given the proximity of the turbo to the filter housing, I don't think I can.

The other issue/concern is the proximity of the screamer pipe and wastegate to the top radiator hose. I don't have my radiator hose with me to check, but at the very least it's going to need some sort of heat protection over it I would have thought.


For the most part I'm happy with how things are progressing, still plenty to do before I turn the key for the first time, but nerves are starting to jangle!

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With the engine nearing completion, it was time to pay the car a visit. It's looking a little sorry for it's self currently, covered in dust and generally looking unloved.


First order of business was to have a good tidy up and sweep under the car, and lift the bonnet up and out of the way. Much like the entire car, the engine bay is already pretty clean, just covered in a few years of grime, and a few months of dust.


I set to work removing bits and pieces, some found their way back into the bay this afternoon, others removed forever. I also detached the wiring loom to help with cleaning.


With the important bits of the wiring loom protected with an assortment of shopping bags, it was time to coat the engine bay with some degreaser.


Whilst the degreaser did it's thing, I made use the communal impact gun to separate the drive gear from my Kaaz LSD. I'd previously struggled for an hour or two trying to get the bolts undone with a pair of breaker bars, ultimately failing. Using the impact gun, I had all the bolts out in about 5 minutes, I need to invest in one of those for my self soon!


I'll be sending this to 3J to be given a once over and hopefully reorder the plates to be a little more aggressive. On the subject of the LSD, can anyone point me in the direction of resource that will educate me on how they should be setup for your particular application? I just want to understand it a little more, because right now, I've no idea what to tell 3J.

Back to the engine bay, I gave it a good scrub, including all the major crevices, including in between my toes and in my belly button, no, wait. After the scrub, I gave it all a wipe down, came out ok!


Then re-fitted the bits and pieces I'd removed, et voila.


I had intended getting the engine over to the car this weekend, but that will have to wait until next. I need to order up some final bits, and also have the new clutch release bearing pressed onto it's carrier. I'll have a full weekend at it next week, at the very least I'd like the engine in the car, ideally running, we shall see.

I setup some social media channels this week, please feel free to like, share and subscribe below.

I've also been keeping a blog, so if you'd like to read up on the cars history it's archived here: http://ep82.racing

Edited by TimD

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Nice build and detailed write up! Will be keeping an eye on this

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In my previous post I suggested that I'd be sending my Kaaz LSD to 3J to be serviced, I also said I'd like to fit the engine at the weekend. 3J suggest a 1 to 2 week turn around, which might mean I wouldn't have the LSD back in time, and ultimately scupper my plans to fit the engine.

With a small amount of spare time this morning, and after 3 confidence inspiring beers last night, I figured I'd at least have a go at re-ordering the plates my self, what's the worse that could happen? After an early, and cold start I headed over to the unit to make use of the vice.


First of all, this isn't my workshop, so please don't judge the messy bench!

Back home now to the warmth of my office, I started the teardown. The top came off fairly easily but revealed some foreign material on the belleville washer.


The first three plates came out in one piece, the fourth? Well, let's just say, that one doesn't look particularly happy.


As you can see, the middle "tabs"? Have separated from the main body of the plate, no idea what has caused this, but that would suggest why the thing wasn't locking as well as it should. The rest of it came apart fairly easily, and all the other plates are in one piece.


Mondays job will be trying to organise a rebuild kit for the thing. Does anyone have any idea what could have caused this failure?

Edited by TimD

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Crikey, Ive not seen a failure like that before.

Did it not behave like an LSD, or did it feel open when putting power through it?

Engine looks a treat now, look forward to seeing it come together.

Im at Blyton on 19th march if your gonna be running in time?

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The diff worked, but not very well. I wrongly assumed the plates had been ordered to make it tame.

Not sure on running in, it may get run in on a rolling road. If it costs the same as a track day, might as well do it in a controlled environment!

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I left things last week with the lofty ambition of finally getting the engine back in the car, and started for the first time, that didn't quite happen, but I was still able to get a decent amount of work done. Mid way through last week I came to the realisation that without putting myself under a massive amount of pressure I'd not be able to get the engine in and started. But I was OK with this, I need to try and enjoy this process a little more, and not put myself under unnecessary pressure.

After some research and a back and forth with Ray at Kaaz USA (Who is very helpful!), I spoke with Coordsport here in the UK and ordered up an overhaul kit for my Kaaz LSD. The kit (71261-106) arrived early Tuesday morning, and upon opening it up I noticed it came with 12 plates, for my 8 plate LSD. Spares, at least. I had read on the internets that leaving the plates to soak in gear oil before fitting was a smart move. I wouldn't have chance to put it back together until the weekend, so I plonked the bits I needed in a tub, and loaded them up with gear oil.


Another midweek task, was moving the engine from my house to where the car is stored. With the help of a friend, we loaded it up into the boot of my daily (E39 Touring), and drove it the 3 miles across town. Reuniting the engine with the car, for the first time since 2015!


The weekend finally rolled around, and it started with me rebuilding the diff. It all went together fairly easily.


Once that was done, it was over to the unit to torque the small allen bolts to 12nm before fitting the ring gear. The ring gear required some heating up before it would fit, I used some red thread-locker on the ring gear bolts, and torqued them to 91nm.


I had worried slightly about reusing the differential bearings, but after speaking with a couple of people, it was deemed that they were still in very good condition and could be used again.

With the diff fully assembled, it was time to start cleaning the gearbox mating surfaces of old gasket. I'm certain I've spent just as much time preparing mating surfaces than I have assembling the entire engine and gearbox. Perhaps I'm just being too picky? But having struggled with liquid gasket in the past, I wanted to be sure everything was clean.


With the top? nice and clean it was time to do the bottom?, and load the diff into the casing.


It was then time to spend a patient 30 or possibly 60 minutes trying to get the reverse selector back in place. I found the easiest way to do this was to loosely attach it to the top housing, and then carefully put it where it needs to be. Much swearing later, I managed it, not something I'd want to do again in a hurry.


You can just about see the bit that needs to fit in the groove, I used red thread locker, and fastened the two bolts as tight as I felt necessary. Hopefully tight enough, there just wasn't enough room to get my torque wrench in there. I left the two pieces propped open to allow me to apply some liquid gasket.


After a quick trip to buy more liquid gasket (Loctite 598), I was able to the box sealed up.


For a while now I've been wanting a bench grinder to aid with cleaning up bolts, I'll have one some day! But in the mean time I've been using a small bristle brush and liberal amounts of brake clean.


I've cleaned up all the fasteners before returning them to the engine, gearbox and car.

Not where I was hoping to be, but it has meant I've been able to take my time, and enjoy the process a little more rather than rushing around and getting stressed.

Finally, can anyone confirm that this is the correct order for the spring/ball bearing thing?


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Confirmed *thumbs up* love the build. I like the way that diff is serviceable. I'm tempted to buy ome and have it machined to fit my 6 bolt ring gear. :'(

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Before getting into the meat of this post, I'd like to preface it with a bit of a disclaimer. Almost everything I write about here is a first, especially at this stage of the build. I am trying to carry out due diligence in terms of how to do things, but there is still a certain amount of learning as part of the process. I write these things, partly for me to look back on and reminisce, and partly to inspire others to do similar. It's important that the hobby of tinkering live on, our society is slowly but surely embracing throw-away culture, and that's worrying! Break stuff, fix stuff, tinker, it's how we learn and grow as people.

I'll step off my high horse, and get back to mumbling my way through a weekends work.

Following a week in France trying not to break a leg, or tear an ACL, whilst tearing down a mountain on a pair of ski's, it was back to the task at hand, and that was finally getting the engine back where it belongs. I started by replacing some of the tired looking coolant and vacuum lines which could prove frustrating to access once the engine is back in the bay. I also plugged off some of the redundant coolant lines we don't need anymore thanks to deleting the heater matrix.


Next job on the list was to fit my ORC 309 flywheel and clutch, I had ordered up some brand new OE flywheel bolts so made use of those. It all went together fairly easily, I didn't have an alignment tool, but a little Googling revealed that a 15mm long socket with extension did a good job, and so it did.


You'll notice I also put the dust shield on, I also attached the timing belt side engine mount. This wasn't without a small amount of drama, as I had forgotten this would be almost impossible with the water pump fitted. I faffed for a little bit, but then realised the quickest way to sort this was to remove the water pump.

After a small amount of jiggling, the gearbox mated up nicely with the engine, popping it into gear, rotating the crankshaft and keeping an eye on the diff confirmed things where moving as you would expect.


With the gearbox and engine mated nicely, I bolted on the last few bits necessary for mounting it all in the engine bay, and we lifted it as high into the air as the crane would allow. This initially proved not quite high enough, but a small/large amount of man power, depending which end of the engine you were stood, was all that was needed for the whole thing to clear the unremovable slam panel, and ready to be lowered down into the bay.


With the engine in place I started running the wiring loom to each sensor, and reattaching it to the starter motor and alternator. I also ran fuel lines, and bolted up the clutch slave cylinder, theoretically I could have tried starting the thing. But it was getting late in the day, and I hadn't got any oil, or oil filter, etc, etc.

I did find time to mount up the new turbo kit, and play with air filter location. I intend to build an airbox behind the headlight where the old power steering pump would live.


There is one large thing missing from the above photo, a radiator. The simple answer to that, is that it doesn't fit. The new manifold and turbo are not compatible with my thicker radiator, bum. I knew we would be tight on space, but not to the point where it wouldn't fit at all. A lot of people fit a smaller radiator from an EG Honda Civic, but they're almost 30 cm smaller in width. The other option is to go for a custom sized core, and mount it between the lower cross member and slam panel. Perhaps I'll try a Civic radiator first, and if it's not sufficient, look to change it.

I'd known for a short amount of time that the main earth from gearbox to chassis was a bit pathetic, so much so, that when previously cranking to build oil pressure I noticed a small amount of smoke coming from it. It turned into one of those things that I'd replace when I got around to it, now seems like a good time, here in all it's melted glory is what I removed.


And that's it, she's in. Time to order some bits and pieces up, and hope they arrive in time for next weekend, when I can hopefully start her up for the first time. Shitting my pants about that one, fingers crossed it all goes OK.

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Looking good lad.

Crank it for a good solid minute with fuel and spark off. To build oil pressure in the engine and turbocharger.

Then with fuel enabled. Keen eyes on the fuel system for leaks as thats the most dangerous part.

If thats all good, fire it up completely and look for oil and water :)

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You may find you need to prime the pump to get oil pressure.pouring some oil from a height down the oil filter screw bolt worked for me. Longer you are cranking you are wearing off the assembly lube on fresh new bearings etc, even if it is pretty slow just on the starter.

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A while ago now, I picked up a genuine TiAL wastegate fairly cheaply. This was because one of the bolts used to attach it to the screamer had snapped when the previous owner had attempted to remove it from their car.

I figured it wouldn't be too difficult to repair, and started the process by winding on two nuts before nipping them together as tight as I could.


I then took a can of air, tipped it upside down and squirted it towards the broken bolt. This flash cools the component, shrinking it, and hopefully making it easier to remove. A trick I picked up from watching the AvE YouTube Channel.


I then turned the lower of the two nuts, and a little bit of force free'd the broken bolt. The threads were a little chewed up, but I was able to wind in, and importantly nip up a new mate bolt, so there's no need to drill and tap to a larger size.


With the wastegate sorted, I turned my attention to the exhaust manifold. When bolting it up to the engine, I noticed it seemed a little warped on the mating surface to the head. The 4efte head has a habit of cracking where the #4 cylinder manifold stud goes. I decided to try and figure out just how bad it is, and from my crude measurements, it's pretty bad.


I don't have a "flat" surface to check, but an engineers ruler and a light shining behind it goes so far to prove my concerns. It's made my mind up that I'll pay someone to flatten it for me. Perhaps I'm being pedantic, but having paid a decent amount of money for this kit, the fit and finish is pretty sub par. Along with this, I can't fit the downpipe to my turbo because the tolerances are so tight the studs on the turbo wont go through the holes. There is also the worry about how close the screamer pipe and wastegate are to the top radiator hose.

Frustrating, but experience has taught me, "bolt-on" aftermarket parts have a habit of being not so when it comes to actually bolting them on. It's all part of the process.

I dropped the manifold in with a precision engineer today, who confirmed it's lack of flatness. They'll hopefully have it sorted for the weekend..

Edited by TimD

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This weekend started badly, Saturday turned into one of those days. I'd left a number of things at home, so had to make return trips to collect them, bought a box of vinyl gloves instead of nitrile ones, packed my camera without an SD card. Nothing major, but lots of little things getting in the way of progress.

When I eventually got to work, my first job was to attack my down pipe with a round file to make it fit the turbo. I'm not sure if it was down to tolerances, or slightly out of true studs on the turbo? Probably a bit of both, because the studs all looked pretty straight to the naked eye. Anyway, after an hour of filing, checking, filing some more, and finally blasting out thoroughly with air and brake cleaner, I got it all together.



I also took a slight edge off the dump pipe, will likely make bugger all difference, but it was easy to do so I got on with it. I also had the manifold to engine mating service made flat during the week, it was noticeably easier to tighten each of the 6 manifold bolts upon fitting it up to the engine.


I bolted it all up to the car, and then got on with making an oil feed line for the turbo. I'd ordered up some AN4 fittings, and line from Torques, I quite like black fittings and black lines. They cost a little more money than an off the shelf braided line for the turbo, but I quite like the finish, and have used the same coloured fittings and hoses in other parts of the engine bay as well.



With the line made up, it became apparent quite quickly, that with the turbo fitted to the car I wouldn't be able to fit the line to the turbo. So off came the entire thing, gearbox brace and all so I could get the line fitted nice and snug.


All fitted up, the photo makes it look like the line is touching the filter housing. That's not the case, there is decent clearance around the oil line. Theoretically the line shouldn't move anywhere, it's fitted to a solid mounted part, but if it's possible to give clearance I always do.

Hopefully for the final time, the manifold is bolted back up. A neat feature is the inclusion of a gearbox to down-pipe brace. This should help keep everything where it needs to be, I've also used tri-locking nuts and fine pitched bolts everywhere. You can also see the air filter has been mounted here as well, it fits perfectly, I can't wait to get it boxed in.



With the exciting new things all buttoned up, it was time to get on with some of the more mundane tasks. Those included fitting driveshafts, re-wiring up the DEFI's, fitting the speedo cable, and making sure the fuel system is all nipped up nice and tightly.




With that done, I made a quick list of the final parts and consumables I'd need so I can get the thing started. 99% of that is now ordered, and should be with me this week, meaning I should be able to start it for the first time this coming weekend. Chomping at the bit now, but really nervous!

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Excellent Work Dude.

It will be running in no time!

Liking the neat approach putting senders for gauges in disused factory positions! etc

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That's smart!

What is the tread size for the thermostat housing? I might do that instead of cutting my brand new roose hose in half

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I can't remember the size of the thread, I've had the fitting for years and have only just got around to fitting it. If I come across it I'll drop you a message, sorry.

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So, let's try and catch up with this thing, a lot has happened since the last time I updated my build thread, some good, some bad.

D-Day had arrived, but first I needed to fit a few things before actually turning the key. The first was an oil return for the turbo, which doesn't fit great, but would do the job for now. I'll replace this before the car is used in anger, you can see it's bulged ever so slightly where it connects to the turbo, far from ideal.


The issue is that the O.D of the sump connection is 19mm, the turbo is just 16mm, and finding an oil hose that fits this perfectly proved quite difficult. My solution is to buy two separate hoses, one suitable for the turbo, the other the sump, and then join them in the middle with a brass reducing joint. It might not look very pretty, but it should be reliable.

With that done, it was time to get the waste-gate and screamer pipe mounted up, I'd been waiting for the hardware to do so for a while now.


Next on the hit list would be the Civic radiator, I don't have brackets for this here, but as I had no intention of actually driving the car for a little while this wouldn't stop play.


For the most part it was plug and play, the outlets are larger than what you would normally find on the Starlet, but heating the hoses with some boiling water allowed them to fit without too much wrestling. I do think I'll need to do something with these in the future, one has split slightly from being stretched. So far they seem fine, but it is on the list of things to change in the not too distant future.


That is a rubbish photo, but the lower outlet on the radiator is on the wrong side for the Starlet, as such it bends the hose weirdly, and causes it to contact the screamer pipe. OK for today, but not something I could risk using when the car gets driven for any distance.

With the radiator home, it was time to take a look at the "hot pipe" from turbo to intercooler. I had my old hot pipe from the previous setup, which I believed would be fairly easily modified to suit the new setup.

Here's what I started with.


First thing to do was to chop the flange off attach it to the turbo and see how far away we were.


If I was lucky, that might be the only thing I needed to modify. I'm not that lucky.


But we weren't that far off really, I'd just need to cut a length out of the middle and join it together with a silicon joiner. I cut the pipe in such a way that I could make use of the existing welds, and use them as beads for the silicon joiner. I am going to need to find a bead roller, or have a run of weld put around the pipe that goes to the turbo at some point I suspect, we'll see though, I might not. 15psi of boost isn't much after all.


The different colour silicon joiners are testing my slight ocd, I'll replace them all to match at some point.

I would then have much fun filling the box with gear oil, what a mess! I bought a syringe to try and make the job easier, I think next time I'll just be patient and use a small funnel.

Anyway, with that done it was time to try and start the car, and this is where the real fun would begin.

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I began with some pre flight checks, plugs out, turn it over to build oil pressure, so far so good.

Plugs in, turn the key and it would fire immediately woohoo, run for 5 seconds and cut out. Not so good, and then it refused to start again.

I tried lots of different things, check for spark, check for fuel, old spark plugs in, etc, etc. Everything looked as though it should start, we then began to question the fuel. I checked to see if the cam belt had jumped, and eventually whipped the cam cover off to check to see if the cams were in time, this is where I noticed something odd.


Milky oil, shit.

I did some searching of the internet, some other people had a similar experience with first starts.


That is a Starlet throttle body, they have 4 nipples, the ones labelled 1 & 2 are vacuum, 3 & 4 water. And yup, you guessed it, I got two of them mixed up.


Queue a number of oil changes to get the oil looking like oil rather than mayo, not a great start.

The engine would eventually run quite sweetly, decent oil pressure, no nasty noises to speak of, and also, so far, nothing leaking on the floor. Although with my history of leaks, I suspect it's only a matter of time before something starts to dribble.

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The car would then sit for a few weeks whilst I gathered parts to fit a Peugeot 106/Citroen Saxo power steering pump to replace the standard belt driven unit.

The parts required are as follows:

- 2 x M16 x 1.5 Power Steering to -6 Fittings

- 2 x 90 degree -6 fittngs

- 3m of -6 nylon braided hose

- 3m of 10mm nylon braided hose + jubilee clips

- 70 amp relay

- 50 amp fuse

- Wiring to suit

It's a fairly straight forward process really, the most difficult part was finding somewhere to mount the pump, and something to mount the pump with.

I decided a good spot would be up inside the front wing. There's plenty of room there, and it would mean the pump was isolated from the engine bay and cabin. The next hurdle was figuring out how to mount it. The pump is a cylindrical shape, which sent me down the rabbit hole of extinguisher mounting brackets. I struggled to find specifications for them, but stumbled across some mounts for an accusump which should fit the bill.


A post on here asking where I might be able to buy just the mounts for these resulted in a friend sending me a pair he had lying around, top man! Which reminds me, I must get around to sending a selection of biscuits down south!

The next hurdle would be figuring out how to mount them, I was keen not to solid mount the pump to the chassis of the car. My initial idea would involve some M6 bobbin type rubber isolators, but once they arrived I deemed them a little too small. Instead opting to use 4 mate rubnuts, with 4 decent sized mate bolts.



I positioned the pump in place, and started making up the lines, and running them from the steering rack to the pump.



They are neatly run along the bulk head, and secured using rubber lined P clips.


The pump would require rotating ever so slightly in order to clear create some clearance, but for the most part it packaged quite nicely in it's space behind the bumper.

I don't have any photos of the wiring, but I made up a little loom for the relay, and made use of the existing plug that came with the pump which should make replacing the pump really straight forward, should I ever need to do so.


The little filler bottle comes up and into the engine bay, and will be mounted with a large rubber lined P clip to one of the unused rubber isolator bobbins.

I umm'd and arr'd about how I would energise the relay for the new pump, wondering if a switch on the dash would make sense. But in the end just wired it to a key position 2 12v feed I found right next to the relay. This feed was for the a/c which is now non existent, pretty handy.

Everything is packaged quite neatly, but it's a little tight on space. It's a small car after all, so something to put up with.

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With the power steering now all plumbed and wired in, the only thing getting in the way of me actually being able to drive the car was the radiator.

If you remember earlier I commented that the lower outlet required moving. I found someone local to help me with that, pretty straight forward if you can wield a tig torch with some confidence.


I also picked up a set of JD Tuning brackets to mount the new radiator.


Fitting them up would be really straight forward as they made use of all pre existing holes, someone had done their homework.

At this point a friend had popped across to lend a hand, we filled the radiator with fluid and ran the car up to temperature. Once at temperature I checked ignition timing, and for the first time in 18 months the car would venture outside under its own steam.


A quick run up and down the road is all it would get, I don't want to use it too much before using it properly, if that makes sense?


We gave it a very quick sponge bath, and then wheeled it back inside.



Nothing to report really, but then you wouldn't expect so after a few hundred yards of driving. I seem to have broken my wideband sensor by running the car with it unplugged, so that could well be an expensive mistake.

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Today would be the last day I get to work on the car for a few weeks, and as such I was keen to have a proper go at it. Get as much done as possible, so that I could speak with a local tuner to have him check it over on his rolling road before booking a day at Blyton Park or similar for a proper shake down.

Since fitting the new power steering pump I couldn't get my bumper to fit properly without it contacting the pump. It looked like an easy fix, so I attacked it with a dremel until I gained enough clearance to replace the mesh and fit the bumper without it contacting the pump.


This would end up taking much longer than I had hoped, but am pleased with the results, you wouldn't know the pump was there unless you had a proper look for it.

With the bumper fitted I set about getting the rest of the front end built up. I man handled the bonnet into place, the shut lines are dreadful. Definitely a two man job, I just didn't have a second man today, not even a David. With the bonnet on, I popped the lights in and made sure they worked, finally adding the grill.




It's a car again, pretty neat to see it finally back in one piece!

The last order of business was to drain the old fuel out of the tank and replace it with new V-Power.


I still have a couple of things to tidy up before it's ready to be looked at, I need to fit a gasket between the turbo elbow and the exhaust downpipe, and I also need to fit a spring to the wastegate. It came with a 15psi spring, but seeing as that is the maximum amount of boost I want to run, I picked up a 7psi spring, so will fit that. It doesn't have a spring fitted currently, which is why it sounds like a tractor in the earlier video.

Oh, and I'd like to have a go at reviving my lambda sensor before having to buy a replacement.

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