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Everything posted by Turk
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One thing i just wanna say is i dont see the point in this upgrade. Unless your going forged. The standard injectors are 295cc so they are enough to acheive 230ish hp. And thats being safe. When i brought my v it came with a ebay one i think. Ive owned the car for 4 months now and the previous owner was my cousin who had it for 2 years and had no problems. So i really dont know. But i wouldnt recomend putting one anyway
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As said dont buy cheap lambda. They fail and arent very accurate
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fuel pressure regulator settings can anyone help
Turk replied to ryan22laird's topic in Ignition & Fueling
I wouldnt mess around if u have a plug and play. They are supposed to work well with a standard ct9 or hybrid. And fuel pump doesnt matter what it is the regualator will adjust the pressure in the rail. If i was you run it at standard pressure at even 1 bar. Also its always good to have a wideband lambda on turbo cars. You really dont want to lean out and get det. -
Doesnt sound like a wire problem. I think your sensor might have gone. How old is the kit?
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From what ive heard they are a good bit of kit. But its very out dated. Came out in the 90s. So isit good today? I think its not the best. An emage ultimate is better. Depends if u get rid of it or not. Also if you got a wideband lambda u can keep an eye out for your afr. And if its good then you know its proberly mapped
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theres certain ways of acheiving this, the most common is piston, but to increase compression you can also skim the head, deck the block, thinner head gasket. so yh there is alot more ways. and i recon a high comp engine is better if you ask me. this is because its much more powerful off boost. but i can say without a dought a good engine these days depends on your engine management and tuner.
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depends on what you want but the 4efte valve springs can take quite some revs. on a 4efte people rev them to 8k and they are fine. unless you want to go over that then i wouldnt see why you would want to spend so much on valve springs.
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with 1 bar on a td04 you should be able to get around 220bhp. and people say thats safe. if its a daily pls get it mapped. i had my td04 setup at 0.9 bar with a fcd and rrfpr but i dropped the boost to standard untill i get the turbo setup im thinking of and with a map i should be able to see about 220-240
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If its not the bulb then it could be the solders are cracked or the bulb holder might not be contacting properly to the circuit board behind the clocks
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I just took the bulb out and took it to eurocarparts and said give me this bulb and they did loool.
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I think they were 20mm to 80mm. Something like that. But someone correct me if im wrong. And i think they are not as good when adjusting your damping. Better off getting meisters or bc racing
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Theres so much more to be gained by going DIS. Its not about just getting 300bhp and thinking yh thats fine. By having DIS it improves off boost power, on boost power, fuel economy, and with a good ecu you can set det threshold to be able to run your engine at its limits. The DIS system is so beneficial but cost alot hence why people go for DIS on only high powered cars running standalone ecu. By the way i was just think if you can get the third gen coils and run it off a emanage or other piggybacks which will allow you to be able to map the fueling for a turbo setup and also play about with
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Im pretty sure you can also increase the compression by skiming the head or block too. But i do beleive high comp turbos the way forward. I would go higher then 9:1 i think 9.5:1 is ideal for me. But i live in london and its a bit hard to use the power especially with a td04
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If your going standalone i would get individual coils. Improves drivability and top ends gains are big. Also should give you bettter bottom end. I would defo do it if i was in your situation. Ive seen people use corrola 1.6 coils before so you might want to look into that. All depends on budget otherwise msd.
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I live in north london ill come to take them. is this everything? Or have you got more parts?
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Aem is proberly the best wideband out there, but from what ive heard what matters is the sensor. Apparently the bosch sensor on the aem wideband is what makes it really accurate. Also heard that innovate use the same sensor and they are as good. If you want to save a little money with the tunning, you can always get a fcd and a safc and put it on the rollers and just tweek the afr. Im gonna go that route thanks to uni cant afford a ecu and a map. Atleast you will know that you wont run lean!!!!!!
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Try giving turbonetics a call, they are good with hybrids but itll properly be expensive i recon.
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Try your temp sensor it was like £8 at benetts but ive got leaks so ill first sort them out.
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Change the heater matrix if that doesnt help I recon it could be the water pump
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If I was you id go for a excedy organic clutch. I think they hold around 300bhp and its not like an on off switch. Shud be like a normal clutch. Thats what you need for daily driving. Id workz sell them give them a call and they should be able to help you out more. They have loads of clutch kits. One should be able to suit your needs
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hi i also have some will let them off for cheap. ive taken off the rear shocks and i need a air gun to take the fronts off. one of the front shocks are bust. i think they are 45mm drop so pm if u want them!!!!
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I guess the td12 is deadly then!!!
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Yh I would nwver push my engine that far.got 194k mixture of miles and km. 1.1 bar is the max I will go. Wallace is that graph on a td12 or tf035?
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Problem found it was the fuse box
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How long have you been running 1.2 bar? Ive never seen anything with a torque and power curve like that!!!!!