RobSR

your missing my point, if you have a 133bhp glanza and a 190bhp glanza both doing a breaking test from 60mph there going to pull up in the same distance, the standard car isnt going to pull up quicker because its got less power, if they both start at the same speed. We buy better pads for them, so we can pull up quicker than standard, not because the extra power has made stopping distances worse.

Course they need to be changed, replace all the n/a looms with the glanza ones..plug and play, they only go together one way, i dont know where in my post i said keep n/a headlight loom? having 200bhp isnt going to make your brakes worse is it, thats irrelevant. braking from 60mph whether you have 75 or 200bhp is the same. I also cant see where i said im personally keeping the rear drums, im uprating them.. I cant see how thats "pikey mechanics"

in my opinion it's not as hard as people make out, and you'll realise once you've done it, yes your going to run into problems, but nothing that you can't sort out. The rear braking setup doesn't have to be changed, it's adviseable, but the rear only does about 20% of the braking so it's not totally necessary. Dropping an engine in and out is no different wheter it's a tub or not, and you only really have to unplug the loom, and then re plug it in whch isn't hard as it only goes in one way..same with interior wiring, when you have the Glanza looms it's a straiight plug and play swap. You hardly need any tools they're that easy to work on. Literally a rachet a range of sockects and spanners is all you need !

Could be warped head/HG problems...and it doesn't always necessarily overheat all the time if it's this.

You can get away with reusing the turbo to cat gasket. The most important one to change is the head to mani if you take the mani off...

Noticed that the other day! Looks pretty swish

I still can't see how you think if you raise fuel pressure you get less flow which means the engine is going to run leaner... Which implies you would lower the fuel pressure on your car to make it run richer...errrr no! Hence why when everyone fits hks fcds they raise the fuel pressure to add in more fuel.

rick knows what he's on about If you increase the fuel pressure, the cars going to run richer

is what ive said totally wrong lol? or is that starlet sr...im not totally clued up on the fuelling sides of things lol

Very nice mate good choice using jurgen aswell! How much did dusty charge for postage etc as I'm after a few bits from him! Cheers

x2!

so at stock na fuel pressure I can't see them flowing much more...or even, less infact. (richs ran lean when he fitted his at stock pressure)

What I meant is I don't think the Glanza s ones are a higher cc than the uk ones. The only reason they add more fuel than the uk ones is that they run higher fuel pressure as the reg is defo different on the Glanza s rail. Think the only way to tell for sure is to get uk ones and Glanza s ones flow tested uk's are 195cc and the corolla ones (yellow) are 225cc so that may be a better option

I'm doing it the now and don't regret it to be honest. The sr wasn't in the best of condition so I couldn't of afford to sell it and buy a GT/Glanza which is another reason why I did it, aswell as giving myself a challenge... It's more rewarding doing the work and getting it running than just buying a turbo model.. If you decide to buy a turbo one have a go in both first. Personally I prefer GT's even though I have a '91

I think there actually smaller than the standard uk ones but run a higher pressure to flow more. So basically stay with your standard ones and get an adjustable fpr to add in more fuel. Not many people bother on the na but with and inlet mani + exhaust and the fuelling setup you may see a nice little gain..

I went and worked it out myself yesterday lol! Cheers anyway though... I didn't join the pipes though just used a longer one piece one so there is no chance of leaks!

If it happens when going over bumps one of your suspension topmounts could be loose! Tighten them up and see if it helps!

For anything you want to keep cool use reflective tape...if you want to keep heat in / away from other things use heat wrap

Errr I didn't think they did as the fte flywheel is bigger...

The jam/greddy ones don't affect the Fuelling under fuelcut, only over it they start to lean it out..I don't like the hks ones as the lean it out over the whole rev range.. Also if you know what your doing with the safc you can run over fuel cut without an fcd

I'm doing it on mine.. Can you just block everything off or do you have to keep the water flowing from the stat housing to the water pump??

Don't wrap intercooler pipes in heatwarp. Use reflective tape for that.. Re. The mani if you are going to do it, make sure it's really clean, as any dirt under the wrap will give you headspots which will promote cracking.. O personally think it's good stuff and wrap the whole thing.. But if your worried about cracking leaving the welds exposed and just wrapping the pipe is supposedly better ..

You won't hit over 200bhp on the standatd ct9... You'll either need a hybrid or a td04.. Injectors will be okay upto just over 200bhp

Think the only way Is gonna be fibreglass mate... The only other thing I saw was an L shaped bracket bolted onto one of the original holes under the boot and then slide that under the top lip of the bumper ...

Yes it is mate. Fits fine, it's not really solid so I'm going to fab up some more places to support it to the chassis